Oil FAQ - oil and filter change questions and which brand to go with? - Page 267
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Thread: Oil FAQ - oil and filter change questions and which brand to go with?

  1. #2661
    Greenhorn
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    I've been reading this thread really thoroughly and got a lot of information out of it.
    Can't believe you guys can talk this much about this topic
    Silver2Coupe, Teeps and MeeSh like this.
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  3. #2662
    Platinum Member Roadcourse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcdamian7 View Post
    I've been reading this thread really thoroughly and got a lot of information out of it.
    Can't believe you guys can talk this much about this topic
    Me neither.
    Silver2Coupe likes this.
    Only the knife knows what goes on in the heart of the pumpkin......unknown

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  4. #2663
    Platinum Member Silver2Coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcdamian7 View Post
    I've been reading this thread really thoroughly and got a lot of information out of it.
    Can't believe you guys can talk this much about this topic
    There is a lot of advertising over the years that have to be debunked. When you realize that any oil with a API rating is good enough for most applications and the under normal driving can go to the maintenance minder. The main reason is because the fuels are better with lower sulfur with 15 ppm compared to 300-500 ppm and sulfuric acid is not the problem with lower base stocks as in the past. On the race teams and tracks I was a part of in the past tried to discourage the use of synthetics due to harder clean up on the tracks. We used a cheap oil and just changed it more often. When we used a good synthetic oil we had heat issues after a few races and they blamed it on the motor breaking in. Basically a oil only has to be as good as the application requires and over kill with additives and base stocks dont always benefit you in the long run.
    Civic POP Crew #3

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  6. #2664
    Platinum Member Teeps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcdamian7 View Post
    I've been reading this thread really thoroughly and got a lot of information out of it.
    Can't believe you guys can talk this much about this topic
    I blame it on marketing and the perceived need to belong to some club, group, or community. In another forum there were actually "clubs" within the forum, for such things as exhaust pipes, handle bars, the use of a car tire on a bike and of course oil... it was very entertaining to read some of the discussions.

    As Silver has stated below; I offer several anecdotes where cars were driven several hundred thousand miles, all with frequent oil changes, with what ever oil was on sale at the time.
    All, with zero engine problems.

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver2Coupe View Post
    There is a lot of advertising over the years that have to be debunked. When you realize that any oil with a API rating is good enough for most applications and the under normal driving can go to the maintenance minder. The main reason is because the fuels are better with lower sulfur with 15 ppm compared to 300-500 ppm and sulfuric acid is not the problem with lower base stocks as in the past. On the race teams and tracks I was a part of in the past tried to discourage the use of synthetics due to harder clean up on the tracks. We used a cheap oil and just changed it more often. When we used a good synthetic oil we had heat issues after a few races and they blamed it on the motor breaking in. Basically a oil only has to be as good as the application requires and over kill with additives and base stocks dont always benefit you in the long run.
    Well said Silver; nothing more to see here... move along!
    Roadcourse and Silver2Coupe like this.
    Misinformation is far worse; than NO information...

  7. #2665
    Greenhorn
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    Factory engine oil and Heavy Duty DOT 3

    What engine oil does Honda put in at the Factory, for the '12 Civic? And for the '15 Civic? Moly is included also, right?

    And, has Honda stopped shipping their HG Heavy Duty DOT 3 Brake Fluid and shifted to just their HG DOT 3?

    When did that start?

    Anyone have the part # for the HG Heavy Duty Dot 3 and the regular HG DOT 3? Seems to be the same part # but without the leading 0 (HD had the leading 0; regular sans 0).

    Thanks.

  8. #2666
    Platinum Member mreggball's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, I can't answer any of your questions, but I wanted to give you props for asking the most questions ever in a single post.


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  9. #2667
    Greenhorn
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    Anyone?

  10. #2668
    Ez1
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    0w20
    0w20
    Moly comes from the assembly lube used while building the engines, it's not anything extra or special in the oil itself. (Teeps posted about this in another thread long ago)

    I'd think you can find DOT3 just about anywhere. Seems like DOT3 is DOT3:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid
    scottyrocks and Teeps like this.

  11. #2669
    Greenhorn
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    Thanks.

    Was asking if the oil is conventional (with some moly for break-in - read this somewhere), syn blend (with the moly), or full syn ... during engine assy ... at factory ... for the '12 and '15 Civics.

    Also, what is definitive OCI for the factory oil? For HG syn blend? For HG full syn?

    Thanks again.

    Still also interested in Honda's changeover from Heavy Duty Dot 3 to their regular DOT 3.

  12. #2670
    Ez1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Car guy View Post
    Thanks.

    Was asking if the oil is conventional (with some moly for break-in - read this somewhere), syn blend (with the moly), or full syn ... during engine assy ... at factory ... for the '12 and '15 Civics.

    ALL 0w20 is classed as either semi or full synthetic.
    Which type the factory installs, I don't know nor do I really need to know (nor care).

    Search the forum for 'break in oil' and maybe 'moly', read everything you can find written by Teeps. Here's one I found right away:

    http://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/9th-gen-civic-general-chat/191657-factory-oil-consumption.html#post3221233




    Also, what is definitive OCI for the factory oil? For HG syn blend? For HG full syn?
    Per your owners manual:
    Change oil when the Maintenance Minder turns on the wrench light and 15% notification....... or one year, whichever comes first.


    The Maintenance Minder system operates based on a model, it has no way to directly monitor the true condition of your oil or any other fluid. It cannot monitor the level of the oil either.
    The model relies on the correct products being used, "typical" driving conditions, and the driver regularly checking and correcting the fluid levels.

    If one were to dump in the cheapest, most incorrect discount oil found at the Quicky Mart (for a 1928 Ford Model A?), the Maintenance Minder has no way of knowing that.


    HTH

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