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727K views 3K replies 571 participants last post by  Clean12Coupe 
#1 ·
Yesterday, I worked with a friend who has an 87 Chevy truck, that he bought new in 1986, that now has 406,800 miles on the odometer which stopped working last year when the clutch was replaced. So it has more miles than that. It has had 3,000-4,000 mile oil changes using Pennzoil 10-30. The engine has never had the heads off or any major work(except water pump). I've always obsessed about types of oil, oil filter selection, and oil change intervals. I nearly always put between 100,000 and 200,000 miles or more on my cars. Have never had a car use oil except my 1964 1/2 Mustang, back in 1965, which had a bad motor from the start. I use Pennzoil syn in CRV and have been using Mobil 1 Extended Range 5-30 in Si but am changing to 0-30 Amsoil for Si. However, I think many of us, self included, obsess over something that is truly not a problem unless we really use our cars to the extreme limit; and even then, is likely not a problem. IMO, any of the synthetics will provide better protection than we will ever need. Spending more and changing more often will likely just be wasting money. I change at 10-15% on the gauge. I've been driving for 50 years, maintained my own cars, worked as an oil chemist for a while doing longevity research, so I've had some experience along this line. I do believe our Si engines, especially if mod'd, ask a lot more out of oil than that 87 Chevy truck, but I also believe they are a lot higher quality. These are just my opinions, only substantiated by my experience.
It is natural to want to take the very best care of our pride and joy, but it can get to where more done and more money spent is just wasted. The 3,000 mile oil change is way out dated.
 
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#2 ·
I completely agree with you Sew! Synthetic oils right now are capable of so many more miles than people even realize. The 3k mile limit is just like a "rule of thumb" people just love to follow. Which isn't bad but changing your oil really often really isn't a "treat" for your car. If the oil is still good replacing it really isn't changing anything. My last oil change was 500 miles under 0% lol maybe more and when I changed it it wasn't even bad. Granted the only reason I did that was because it was mid winter and it was nearly impossible for me to change in the snow, but just goes to show how lasting good oil is. During that time I was actually worried about changing so late but my dad told me it'd be fine and turns out he was right. Never gonna fret about it again lol


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#3 ·
Hi Sew, I've been running Amsoil in my current car with 160,000 miles as basically an insurance policy on keeping that motor in as decent condition as possible shy from a complete rebuild. I'm looking to get a 2012 Civic Si, and will probably go with Amsoil once she's fully broken in (say just under 20,000 miles). The gear box will get it too. I agree, the 3000 mile oil change is somewhat old now - even the Honda dealership I live near posts 5,000+ miles for their oil changes (non synthetic).
 
#4 ·
Amsoil The gear box will get it too.
I put in the Amsoil manual transmission fluid in my 2008 Si just recently. It made a significant difference. I personally feel it is best to definitely break in the engine well before going to synthetic as the break-in essentially stops when the change to synthetic is made. I will often go up to 10,000 miles before the change to synthetic with 2,3,or even 4 changes prior.
Incidentally, though previously posted, my son traded his 1998 Honda Accord with 322,xxx miles last year. It used virtually no oil. It had only had conventional oil.
 
#5 ·
Synthetic = new cars
Non synthetic = cars with 75k miles
It's good to change oil at 3 -5k but you should really change oil within 5 months depending where you live Evan if you drove 500miles within 5 months. I usually change oil before winter or when freezing temps arrive. Humitaty during summer bring water in to block so it's best to change before winter so you dont crack your block.
 
#6 ·
I put Amsoil in my commuter Toyota when it had 103,000 on the odometer and held my breath wondering what will happen. I was lucky with this car in that there appears to be no MAJOR leaking (spark plugs were dry when I recently replaced them, no blue smoke, etc.), but putting a synthetic in a new motor (like your third or fourth oil change), seems like a good insurance policy to keep the motor with good compression and durability for years down the road. Another good benefit for running synthetics is they supposedly free up some power to the wheels, I know royal purple claims this as a marketing point for them, but I would think all synthetics will give you this benefit too... at least I hope so? I'm definitely switching to synth by my third or fourth oil change with the new civic.
 
#11 ·
I put Amsoil in my commuter Toyota when it had 103,000 on the odometer and held my breath wondering what will happen. I was lucky with this car in that there appears to be no MAJOR leaking (spark plugs were dry when I recently replaced them, no blue smoke, etc.),
I've heard for years about "not putting synthetic" into older cars and not putting semi-synthetic in airplane engines, especially if they have been run very long on non-synthetic. My findings have been to the contrary: no leaking at gaskets on any import I've switched to synthetic, but have found gasket leakage on my son's GT Mustangs(I was nice and used capital letters for Mustang even though I really don't like them, and with good and repeated reasons). Also on Lycoming 0320 and 0360 engines, the Shell 15W50 (semi-synthetic) does tend to have some leakage at some of the gaskets(I use it anyway). Other than possible leakage problems, I see no reason to not use the best lubricant at any age of the engine. Wear virtually quits whenever synthetic goes into the engine. However, if there is any leakage at gaskets, it will likely worsen with synthetic oil. Synthetic oil allows enough of an additional interval between changes that it is actually cheaper to use even if you do your own changes as I expect most of us do.
 
#12 ·
Oil change questions and which brand to go with?

See some online Honda dealers have 12 quarts discounted. Looks like its about $8 per quart at local part stores. I searched some of the deal forums and they sometimes pick it up for $5 a quart during oil change specials. I have Auto Zone, Napa, and Advance Auto. Pep Boys it 30 minutes out of my way. Going to keep an eye out for $5 a quart and buy it online if I need before I find a deal. No, 5W-20 is not an option for me.
 
#1,135 ·
See some online Honda dealers have 12 quarts discounted. Looks like its about $8 per quart at local part stores. I searched some of the deal forums and they sometimes pick it up for $5 a quart during oil change specials. I have Auto Zone, Napa, and Advance Auto. Pep Boys it 30 minutes out of my way. Going to keep an eye out for $5 a quart and buy it online if I need before I find a deal. No, 5W-20 is not an option for me.
walmart, most auto parts places, amazon.com, toyota dealer, honda dealer
 
#13 ·
Depending on where ur at are you really looking for 0w-20 that thin?
 
#15 ·
Thank you for posting this article. My 2008 Si's manual recommends 5W-30 while our 2008 CRV recommends 5W-20. The Si req for 30 wt at the high temp measurement contradicts the article, so it appears. Does the '11 Si's manual also recommend 5W-30 or 20? Realizing that there is very little difference in viscosity of 20 and 30, when measured at 212 degrees, is it generally considered acceptable to use 0-20 in the K20A2?
 
#18 ·
Have you seen as well from a pic of the k24's oil filler cap it specifies 0w-20. Anybody know what the tsx and accord k24's ask for in viscosity?
 
#24 ·
Guess you missed the part that reads that with all that filter media that it only filters out 97% @ 20 microns where as th Pureone filters 99% @ 20 microns for cheaper than the Extended Guard. I stand by my post.
 
#29 ·
Oil change questions and which brand to go with?

My dealer said I should have an oil change done at 1,000 miles to clear out any possible broken down metals. I asked if they had synthetic oil in the car and he said no, but I can switch to it when I have the oil change done.
I do my own oil changes so my first question is, is the 2012 the same as the 2011 as far as going about doing an oil change? Same location of oil filter, etc..? I havent found a diy on the 12 yet, but assume its the same as the 11 underneath.

Also, which oil should I go with Amsoil or Mobil 1? Only 1 store around me has the Mobil 1 in 0w-20, but I've read from some people that they feel Amsoil is better. Is there really that much difference? I do plan to use oem filters due to warranty concerns, but Honda doesnt have a fully synthetic oil, just a blend and I defiantly want to go full.
 
#33 ·
My dealer said I should have an oil change done at 1,000 miles to clear out any possible broken down metals. I asked if they had synthetic oil in the car and he said no, but I can switch to it when I have the oil change done.
I do my own oil changes so my first question is, is the 2012 the same as the 2011 as far as going about doing an oil change? Same location of oil filter, etc..? I havent found a diy on the 12 yet, but assume its the same as the 11 underneath.

Also, which oil should I go with Amsoil or Mobil 1? Only 1 store around me has the Mobil 1 in 0w-20, but I've read from some people that they feel Amsoil is better. Is there really that much difference? I do plan to use oem filters due to warranty concerns, but Honda doesnt have a fully synthetic oil, just a blend and I defiantly want to go full.
Well, you can't go wrong with with Amsoil... But first oil change on 1000 miles? I don't think so.
 
#30 ·
I was never told anything about an oil change at 1000 miles
 
#31 · (Edited)
hmmm, AFAIK Honda company spays the internals of its engine components with moly . Its best to leave the first oil change in there at least 5k or so .
Unless Honda does not do this on 1.5L which I doubt .

I would stay away from that dealer , all 0w-20 are synthetic oils and that is what all honda use now starting 2011 .
 
#32 ·
hmmm, AFAIK Honda company spays the internals of its engine components with moly . Its best to leave the first oil change in there at least 5k or so .
Unless Honda does not do this on 1.5L which I doubt .

I would stay away from that dealer , all 0w-20 are synthetic oils and that is what all honda use now starting 2011 .
Are you sure? I don't think they're fully synthetic.
 
#35 ·
Honda does have a non synthetic and a synthetic blend. Mobil 1 and Amsoil are the only 2 fully synthetic that I know of. I think Castrol may have one now as well though.

I'm sure the dealer said what he said just to get more money, but if its really non synthetic in there now would switching over at 1,000 miles really matter? I really want to use synthetic. It will help with mpg. I know it did in my last car.
 
#37 ·
I was just reading up on Mobil 1's website and it says in their faq section that newer cars really dont even have "break in" periods anymore so to pretty much do what you want and change when needed. I still plan to change mine at 1,000 just because I want full synthetic.
 
#38 ·
My dealer told me to go with the maintenance schedule on the computer as they have a break in oil from the factory, just do the oil change when it's down to 15% from the 100% reading. I'm going to let the dealer do the oil changes for the first 20,000 then go full synthetic after that.
 
#57 ·
THIS.

I'll be letting the dealer take care of all of my maintance until my warranty period is over at 30,000 miles. Then I'm going full synthetic 0w-20 Mobil 1 every 5k.

Just follow the maintenance info on your i-Mid which I beleive is pretty much an oil change every 7,500 miles.
 
#45 · (Edited)
In the US we have the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act: Magnuson

When the dealer tried to sell us a maintenance package I said I take care of all the maintenance and he started spouting off BS and I told him I was very familiar with warranty laws and shut down the conversation. Tried to say you have to use Honda brand everything, but this violates the Moss-Magnuson Act. Lying dirt bags I say, and that is being nice.

Better reading: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/keeping-your-mods-warranty-intact.html
 
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