DIY: Reverse / Rear Back up Camera - HEAVY PICS
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Thread: DIY: Reverse / Rear Back up Camera - HEAVY PICS

  1. #1
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    DIY: Reverse / Rear Back up Camera - HEAVY PICS

    Disclaimer

    9thgencivic.com may or may not endorse various DIY projects, all DIY projects are purely "at your own risk". If you are at all uncomfortable or inexperienced working on vehicles (especially electronics and mechanical), please reconsider doing the job yourself. It is possible on any DIY to damage your car, void your factory warranty, disable a safety feature, create a hazardous condition, or harm or even kill yourself or others. Examples would be the vehicle failing on you, getting an electric shock, or disabling an airbag etc.

    Your dealer or mechanic, or professional audio shop may provide services (and a warranty) for any DIY job posted on these forums. Sometimes, it’s just better to pay to have it done.



    FAQs

    Q: Is this DIY for all civics?
    A: This DIY is for civics with iMids without Navigation. (Need confirmation on SIs)

    Q: Whats the difference between Non-Si and Si iMids?
    A: The SI's iMid screen display an additional info screen which is not confirm on which connector input is used

    Q: Does this camera that you link us fit a sedan?
    A: Yes, it will fit both Sedan and Coupe.

    Q: Where are the pins to connect?
    A: The pins to order is under Project Parts. They will be in the Prep-Work Instruction.

    Q: Will I need a soldering iron or solder anything?
    A: No, there will not be any soldering needed.

    Q: Do I need to take off the rear deck lid on my Civic Sedan to remove the light cover?
    A: Yes you do, instructions are under Sedan Models Only. This does not relevant to Coupes.

    Q: How much did this project cost?

    A: Depends on how much of the tools you have already. Order the requiring Parts will be about $33.



    Tools

    Required:

    - Black / Electrical Tape
    - 20 Zip ties
    - Wire cutter
    - Utility Knife
    - Medium Phillips Screwdriver
    - Small / Jewelers Flat-head Screwdriver
    - Trim Removing Tools
    - Extra wire or tug wire
    - Power Hand Drill
    - Drill bits sizes 1/16 to 1/4







    Recommended:

    - Wire strippers
    - Wire connectors (Marettes)
    - Needle nose pliers




    Project Parts

    Required:

    Reverse Camera -2012 Reverse CRV/CIVIC Back up Camera
    Part Link - 7500K Xenon White LED CRV Fit 09 Civic Honda Car Mirror Rearview Camera P7512W | eBay
    Cost: $19.00USD + Free Shipping
    Shipping /Receiving Time: 7-15 business days
    Comment(s): One of the issue I ran across as several other that when installed, the top of the camera view seems to cut off. So the linked one is one of the cheapest, has guide lines, and easiest to modify lower without getting to messy. There are several cameras on ebay that is similar to this one without guideline, whiter light, etc.
    Note: When ordering, request 6000k LEDs

    Wire - 50ft 22 AWG Gauge Stranded Copper
    Part Link - 50 ft 22 AWG Gauge Zip Wire Red Black Stranded Copper Power Ground | eBay
    Cost: $9.92USD + Free Shipping
    Shipping /Receiving Time: 3-7 business days
    Comment(s): Any wire gauge from 20+/-2 (18-22) will work; Just make sure it is stranded to reduce wire heat and less surge. There is also plenty of cheaper one from overseas but I ordered from this seller several times.
    Note:

    Pins - White 12 SMD LED Car Interior Festoon Light Lamp Panel T10 Dome BA9S Adapter 12V
    Part Link - White 12 SMD LED Car Interior Festoon Light Lamp Panel T10 Dome BA9S Adapter 12V | eBay
    Cost: $2.49USD + Free Shipping
    Shipping/Receiving Time: 7-15 business days
    Comment(s): You will be taking apart the adapters for 4 of the pins
    Note: You can use the dome adapter for the 12smd LED for rear dome lights.

    Recommended:


    Wire Tap –
    Posi-Tap
    Part Link - Best Wire Tap Connector Posi Tap No Tools Strong Better Faster | eBay
    Cost: $6.29USD + $6.00USD Shipping
    Shipping /Receiving Time: 3-7 business days
    Comment(s): This is not necessary to have but it will prevent you to cut or splice any wires so consider it as a fail-safe item. I recommend those who don’t work with wires often to purchase some sort of tap.
    Note: Request the seller you want the red ones (18-24 gauged).
    Note2: There are several different taps on ebay cheaper than this from $3.00USD - $7.00USD shipped. Just search wire tap and make sure it is red (18-24 gauged)




    Prep Work

    Step 1 – Pins

    You should have received 3 adapters with the 12SMD LED. You will need all three adapters for this project and disregard the 12SMD LED board.



    Using the wire cutter, cut the two adapters as exactly shown (yellow line).



    Take a small wedge (Jeweler Screwdriver or Utility knife) to unlock the pins of the two adapters from their socket (yellow circle). You should end up with two pairs of pins (circle blue) total of 4 pins.



    Step 2 – LED T10 Adapter

    Using the wire cutter, cut the last adapter as exactly



    Connect this adapter to the end led wire of the camera as shown



    Cover the exposed wire ends with electrical tape. It should look as shown below.



    This will be plugged into the T10 socket in the trunk for your license plate LED



    Step 3 – RCA Cable

    You should have received a yellow extension RCA Cable with the camera. Using wire cutter and tear down one end of the cable (ignore the tiny red wire hanging out). I used a white RCA cable that was in my cable box. Your progression should look like the next following 3 pictures below.







    Your RCA cable ends should look like below.



    Step 4 – Camera
    Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the 4 screws in the back.



    You will disassemble the camera taking everything out. Move the metal piece downward and use it as a template (outlined in yellow), mark the areas furthest to the bottom of the camera housing (outlined in red)

    Note: The LED is held in by resin and is not necessary to be taken out. I personally wanted different LEDs in there.



    Be very careful at this step, drill slowly and accurately. The plastic will crack or melt if done to fast. Take the power drill with a 1/16 bit and drill the small holes for the screws. After verifying the screws fit, take an adequate drill bit size and bore out an area for the camera wire can go through. Should look like below after you are done.



    You can seal off the front hole with layers electrical tape. I did mine with vinyl tape and plasti dip to add some weather resist strength.



    After the hole is covered to the way you like it. Reassemble everything back together and the camera should sit similar to this.



    Doing this step will lower the camera enough to prevent the 1/3 top cut off but still be concealed.





    **Sedan Models Only**

    There will be 1 bolt and 2 screw (circled in red). Unbolt the 10mm bolt on the right side of the trunk picture. To release the tabs, use pliers to squeeze the two tabs and push up. Make sure you are lifting up a little on the emblem piece. The last clip will be little hard to get to.

    -Special thanks to mstarkey999 for providing the sedan pictures-



    The 10mm bolt is on the left of the trim.








    Last edited by ADExternal; 10-28-2012 at 02:04 PM.

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    Trunk Installation

    Open the trunk. On the inside, remove the wire by pressing down on the clip (blue arrow is pointing). Then pinch together the sides of grey bulb holder to remove that piece (red arrow is pointing).



    On the inside of the trunk, push the clip (red arrow is pointing) to release the housing. You will take it out from the other side. Please reference “Sedan Only” from above on how to remove the rear trunk trim.



    Take the camera that was completed during the prep work and pull the wires from the outside through the hole and plug the 168 end into the grey housing.



    The camera is installed exactly like the OEM housing by sliding in one side and click to on lock on the other side. Secure with zip ties the bulb holder accordingly. And should look like this.



    Pull through the video and power wires along the left side where the other wires run into the trunk. Secure with zip ties accordingly.



    Connect the VGA that was prep before and the red power cable. Run them both down the trunk arm with the rest of the cables the. Secure with zip ties accordingly.




    Remove the three tabs (red circle) open the trunk liner.



    Then unplug left reverse light connector wire and tap the camera power into that. I spliced mine since I’m more confident and experienced to not cut all the way but I would highly recommend using a wire tap at this part.



    Tap one more wire to the power as shown below in the diagram. Before you start running the wires, make sure you know which one is for video/shield and which is for reverse signal. There will be two pairs of wires you will be running total of 4 wires but only 3 is needed. You can split one of the wires if needed. I left it to avoid running another wire on future projects.



    With that in mind, wire it to the front through the back to the front behind and under the liners and trims. It varies between coupe and sedan models but you can tuck the wires under the left foot side trim.

    Last edited by AlienPrime; 12-05-2012 at 06:19 AM.

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    Dash Removal Instructions

    OrbisTheory - 2012 Honda Civic SI - How To Remove The Dashboard




    The entire dashboard comes apart in three separate pieces (highlighted in image). The lower section (red) is held on entirely with clips. The middle section (green) is also held on entirely with clips, but there are two connectors (or possible more with other models) that must be disconnected. The third, upper section (blue) requires the removal of three screws and then can be unclipped.



    I would recommend starting along the edges marked with arrows. Particularly, the left hand side seems the easiest to pull the clips out. The pull takes some getting used to - but it literally requires pulling on the section of dash until it breaks out of the clips. In all likelihood, some will break during this process. I wouldn't worry too much about it - there are so many (which can be moved around, too) that the panel should stay fairly tight...even if you lost a few clips in the process.
    When pulling the dash off, I would HIGHLY recommend that you don't use absolute brute force. Try grabbing parts of the panel and wiggling it, bending it some, or otherwise "working" the clips out.
    The clips for this piece are entirely around the edges. The most difficult ones, I found, are the upper corners on either side of the steering column. You may need to reach up under the panel and try pushing/wiggling back there.



    You can see in the image above some of the clip positions for the lower section.



    The middle section is also entirely clips, except for two wire connectors on each side. I'd recommend starting on the left side and working your way across the top and the bottom. The clips on the right (near the nav in the image) can be tough. Remember; try not to just pull with brute force. Try to "work" the clips out. Note that both wire connectors are in with clips, but are fairly easy to remove. Push the tab and pull.



    Above shows SOME of the clip positions (enough to get started).
    The upper section is the most difficult to remove. The right side has many clips in a relatively small location, and it is difficult to get a grip in this area. First, unscrew the three screws marked below. You do not need to remove any of the screws holding the tachometer. Only the three marked below.



    I would HIGHLY recommend putting tape on the bottom corner of the driver's side tweeter. The fit to get the upper piece out is very tight (and consequently, getting it back in). Pay attention when removing it to see the easiest way to swing the piece out. You're going to want to put it back in the same way.



    Per usual, not every clip has been marked above. Note that there are clips directly at the bottom of the IMID and speedometer. The right side is difficult to remove as there are many clips close to each other and no good grip spot. Also, and this is important, there are clips along the top edge near the windshield. You may need to work between the bottom and the clips in this area. The clips aren't necessarily angled up, so the direction of pull is closer to pulling straight out, away from the dash components.

    Front Installation

    After the dash has been removed, continue to run the wires upwards and through the dash (wire in red)



    Continue to run the wires it behind the steering wheel but make sure that the wires don’t hinder the steering wheel from making adjustments in the future. Pull it through and upwards as the picture show (red lines)



    Over all view the wires should have ran through the dash something like this. Don’t forget to zip tie and secure the wires.



    Now that you have your wires set. Remove the iMid from the dash by unscrewing 4 screws as shown (red circle) and unclipping 3 connectors (blue circle)



    After your iMid is removed, look at the 32Ppin connector and you will see a black piece on the connector. Take a tiny screwdriver and wedge it in the grove to pop it out. It does not come off so don’t try to pull it out. Take three pins you made before and insert them into the 32pin connector pin slow 14 18 19.



    The pin’s openings are going to be seen where it is marked below. Once you see the pins on all three, you can push back the pin lock to secure them. You can align them with a paperclip if needed.



    Reconnect the 32P Connector and put into reverse to test. If it doesn’t come on, double check one of the starting with the pin seated correctly and not being pushed back when connected, then the cable connection from the camera then the spliced/tapped wire connection. If that of this is perfect then you may have popped a fuse but it is highly unlikely if you use tappers.
    Double check all wires that they are not exposed and are secured. Reverse instruction and reinstall the iMid, dash panel, trunk liner, etc.



    Yellow Grid line Adjustment

    This should work on all 9th Gen Civics with the i-MID display...


    Press the MENU button on the steering wheel to access the vehicle menu:


    Then press and hold SELECT and MENU at the same time for approx 20 seconds. You should then get the Service Diag Menu


    Adjust Reversing Camera gridlines.



    Keep asking questions as I will add them to the FAQ for future references. I hope this was a decent DIY, if so I will do more in the future.


    AFTER SPENDING NEARLY 100 HOURS TO WORK AND PERFECT EVERYTHING IN THIS DIY, PLEASE THANK ADEXTERNAL AND MANY OTHERS FOR MAKING THIS A TEAM EFFORT!!!


    GO 9THGENCIVIC.COM!!!!!!



    Last edited by AlienPrime; 12-05-2012 at 06:22 AM.
    RobSBP, serious.sam, LJiGa and 5 others like this.

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  6. #4
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    -Reserved for when this has hundreds of posts after it-
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    Still waiting on instruction but thank you so much DDDD, BTW does this camera that you link us fit a sedan?

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADExternal View Post
    -Reserved for more instructions- I will post up the installation part on Wednesday Night while everyone gets their Parts and Tools together.
    Bought all what you recommended I'm ready! Soldering iron in hand




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    It's about time! Can't wait!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
    2012 CIVIC San Antonio, TX (FB2 #33)Hidden Content

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DingDongxD View Post
    Still waiting on instruction but thank you so much DDDD, BTW does this camera that you link us fit a sedan?
    fits all the civics... fits in that little licensee plate light holder




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    Just added FAQ so I can collect all the questions and answers on the first post and not be repetitive like in the past.

  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADExternal View Post
    Just added FAQ so I can collect all the questions and answers on the first post and not be repetitive like in the past.
    great idea! And are you going to be placing pictures and what not step by step as to how it will be done?




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