Intermittent “safe mode” 2012 si - Page 3
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Thread: Intermittent “safe mode” 2012 si

  1. #21
    Greenhorn
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    The shop is ordering a set of ARP flywheel bolts. I bought 1 factory flywheel bolt. Going to do a length comparison between them. They’re going to cut about 1/8 in off the ARP bolts if the length is the same.
    This change of bolts won’t happen until next weekend. The limp/safe mode usually kicks in within 3 days or so.
    In about 2 weeks I’ll be able to say the issue has been resolved. Or what the next step is to resolve this annoying issue

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  3. #22
    Big Timer!!! 9thgensifamily's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeltaBravo View Post
    The shop is ordering a set of ARP flywheel bolts. I bought 1 factory flywheel bolt. Going to do a length comparison between them. They’re going to cut about 1/8 in off the ARP bolts if the length is the same.
    This change of bolts won’t happen until next weekend. The limp/safe mode usually kicks in within 3 days or so.
    In about 2 weeks I’ll be able to say the issue has been resolved. Or what the next step is to resolve this annoying issue
    Pretty awesome you've bought OEM and aftermarket for comparison. Keep us in the loop, as surely someone in the future will have the same problem.

    If they are trimming some off the bolts, now is a good time to find a nut or thread die to chase the threads after they trim them.

  4. #23
    Platinum Member Teeps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9thgensifamily View Post
    I took this as the bolts bottomed out in the crank before reaching the face of the flywheel. This is very believable. I worked for a supplier for Honda for 11 years, we made oil pans, cam holders, rocker shaft holders, water pumps, and numerous other things. We had "Honda calls" for this same thing...one spec being out caused bolts reaching good torque off the bottom of a hole rather than squeezing something together. Honda likes tight tolerances (hence quality and longevity), but the down side is when something is off, it causes problems easier.

    Neat thing, I fixed the machines that machined and leak tested my oil pan!
    I agree if the bolts are bottoming out in the crankshaft. No amount of torque will cause the required clamping force on the flywheel.
    My problem with this scenario is the lack of clamping force should be apparent upon completion of the installation, not several operating hours later.
    Especially since the bolts, as reported by the OP, are still tight (see post #10.)

    Again I will say it is what it is. And, if shorter bolts fix the problem it's a win for OP.


    Off topic: how did you like working for a supplier with a Honda contract?
    Go here: Hidden Content
    Because misinformation is far worse; than NO information...


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  6. #24
    Nooblets
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    you guys getting me scared about putting aftermarket clutch in my car

  7. #25
    Big Timer!!! 9thgensifamily's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teeps View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 9thgensifamily View Post
    I took this as the bolts bottomed out in the crank before reaching the face of the flywheel. This is very believable. I worked for a supplier for Honda for 11 years, we made oil pans, cam holders, rocker shaft holders, water pumps, and numerous other things. We had "Honda calls" for this same thing...one spec being out caused bolts reaching good torque off the bottom of a hole rather than squeezing something together. Honda likes tight tolerances (hence quality and longevity), but the down side is when something is off, it causes problems easier.

    Neat thing, I fixed the machines that machined and leak tested my oil pan!
    I agree if the bolts are bottoming out in the crankshaft. No amount of torque will cause the required clamping force on the flywheel.
    My problem with this scenario is the lack of clamping force should be apparent upon completion of the installation, not several operating hours later.
    Especially since the bolts, as reported by the OP, are still tight (see post #10.)

    Again I will say it is what it is. And, if shorter bolts fix the problem it's a win for OP.


    Off topic: how did you like working for a supplier with a Honda contract?
    It's not that I think that the flywheel having play should'nt have been checked, it should have been. I did not check mine, and I should know better. Since I didn't after torquing, theres no other time to catch it, as getting the transmission back in requires all the focus on the odd angle of the bottom of it, and alignment for dowels and input shaft. Once transmissions in, the pressure plate is putting pressure on the clutch, so I would think it wouldn't be as noticeable.
    This very well could be a B.S. response on the mechanics end, but the OP is left with this to go on, I'm not a expert, and I can see where this could happen.

    Working for a supplier was great, I enjoyed it. I bought my Civic while I was working there, so I'm not the type of "I'll never buy the junk we make here".
    Teeps likes this.

  8. #26
    Big Timer!!! 9thgensifamily's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jthen228 View Post
    you guys getting me scared about putting aftermarket clutch in my car
    Don't be! This is not the majority of people with aftermarket clutches! The op may be the very first person with a problem, and he's absolutely not the first to go aftermarket.

  9. #27
    Greenhorn
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    Good news and bad news.
    Because there was movement of the flywheel during the inspection. The mechanics went with what’s been mentioned in the previous replies. Improper torquing, bolts working their way loose, bolts being too long and bottoming out. All of these were not a factor and have been elemenated as a (the) cause of my issue.
    There is back and forth movement. The movement is the crank being able to move back and forth.
    They looked up on how much crank play is allowed for a manual. They are between .0039-.0138 (standard inches) my measurement was .0168 standard inches of movement.
    They are now thinking this could be a result of worn “THRUST WASHERS” or “THRUST BEARINGS”
    The worn washers are allowing the crank to have more than suggested movement. Which in return is affecting the crank case sensor to maintain accurate readings.

    This is my thought and my thought only. If it the thrust washers. I can now understand why the issue has been spuratic and inconsistent. It might move just enough to where the crank case sensor doesn’t read an issue. And then there are times it moves enough for the issue to be read.
    I’m going to spend the less than $10 for this part and see if this corrects it, or if there is more digging to be done.

    Apparently it was just a fluke thing that this issue happened this close to the clutch being replaced.

    More to come, as it comes.

  10. #28
    Greenhorn Notarobot's Avatar
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    What did it turn outbto be? Im having the same exact problem right now. Shop is about to replace the crank position sensor

  11. #29
    Greenhorn Notarobot's Avatar
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    So i had the EXACT same problem deltabravo was having. Same scenario with the clutch just having been changed, then the limp mode at high rpm(5-7k). Cycle the ignition and all is well. Car was throwing misfire code for cyl 1,3,4 and random misfire. It was the clutch. Was a duralast clutch. On these k24z7 engines (2012-15 si) HONDA GENUINE CLUTCH ONLY! Unless you have hondata flashpro.
    The duralast clutch that went into my 2012 si was supposed to be an oem replacement part and by all rights it was. (Although I should never have agreed to a Chinese clutch kit going into my car). The clutch felt nice. Smooth engage an disengaging... but the flywheel was not the EXACT same weight as the original honda part. When hooked up to the diagnostic equipment a simultaneous bilp would occur with the crank position sensor and the camshaft position sensor at 5000-5200rpm thus triggering false misfire codes and putting the car into limp mode. (Check engine light falshes and car wont rev past 3000rpm until the ignition is cycled.)
    The duralast clutch cost around $240
    All genuine Honda clutch parts turned out to be about $1100
    Had the genuine Honda clutch installed and no more limp mode. If anyone has any questions feel free to pm me

  12. #30
    Big Pimping!!! dpetro1's Avatar
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    So the flywheel was the problem, not the clutch...
    It is well known the aftermarket flywheel can be problematic. Better bet would have been to resurface the stock flywheel and use the aftermarket clutch with it. $1100 for oem is ridiculous, even an exedy would have been a better choice.
    Other aftermarket kits include a steel flywheel that work with factory ecu as well.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

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