Intermittent “safe mode” 2012 si
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Thread: Intermittent “safe mode” 2012 si

  1. #1
    Greenhorn
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    Intermittent “safe mode” 2012 si

    Roughly 2 months ago I replaced my clutch with an aftermarket (128K miles) befor this Ive had no issue, other than the battery issue.
    Within 200 yards with the new clutch, the RPMs were bouncing around. Got to the house. Disconnected the battery, looked for anything I. Outdoor have done wrong. no issues with that since.
    About 2 weeks later (400-500) I’m driving in town RPMs stumbled CEL flashing and could not exceed 3000 RPM. Nursed it home. Turned it off, disconnected battery. Looked for any issues. Nothing. Started right up, no issues no CEL. Everything was normal. I’m now at 132K miles. I’ve learned that turning the ignition off for a few seconds resets it. It happened 3-4 times since.
    A local shop did a scan (no CEL on) #4 is missing. Said to change plugs new ones were put in around 75K) put in the NGK and new coil which was recommended. Ran like a champ. Following day, same thing. Took it back with the CEL flashing. Clean fuel rail and change #4 injector.
    Side note. I’ve been reading on here MAF sensors being the cause for not being able to exceed 3K 4K RPM.
    I cleaned out the fuel rail, replaced the injector (as recommended) and cleaned the MAF sensor (from the recommendations that I’ve read on here)
    6 days later and aprox 400 miles later IT HAPPENS AGAIN!!!!
    From all the reading I’ve done with others having the RPM issues. None have said if it was intermittent ( like I’m having) or the issue was there until it was repaired.

    I really enjoy driving this car. This issue is making me want to wrap it around a pole.

    i know this was long and I’m sorry. Just trying to get all info in. Any and all help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

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  3. #2
    Top Dawg!! bfaided1984's Avatar
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    Are all the sensors connected and tight? I haven't done a clutch on these cars, but I'm pretty sure you drop the subframe and disconnect a bunch of sensors. I would also check vacuum lines, I was working on a mustang one time with similar issues and codes. Replaced everything based on cels and nothing would stick. Found a vacuum line way in the back was torn, replaced it and everything was solved. The intermittent issue is what makes me think something is loose.
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  4. #3
    Greenhorn
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    That’s one thing I or the tech hadn’t done. Check for a vacuum leak. As far as sensors being disconnected and reconnected. That’s been done and redone.

    As far as dropping the subframe you mentioned. It wasn’t too bad. The size and weight distribution was the biggest issue for me. Installing the transmission was easier than installing the subframe

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  6. #4
    Top Dawg!! bfaided1984's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeltaBravo View Post
    That’s one thing I or the tech hadn’t done. Check for a vacuum leak. As far as sensors being disconnected and reconnected. That’s been done and redone.

    As far as dropping the subframe you mentioned. It wasn’t too bad. The size and weight distribution was the biggest issue for me. Installing the transmission was easier than installing the subframe
    There was another member on here who had dropped the frame, and their steering wheel got moved or something, but the car was getting conflicting information and I think it threw it into a limp mode, I might be wrong on that tho, it's on here somewhere.
    Whenever I'm suffering from Insomnia, I just look at a picture of a Toyota Camry and I'm straight off.
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  7. #5
    Platinum Member Teeps's Avatar
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    It's well known that false misfire codes can be triggered by light weight flywheels.
    If your after market clutch included a flywheel... well there you go.
    Contact one of the tuners for a ecm flash; but do this at your own risk.

    Otherwise I'd recommend installing an OEM clutch.
    dpetro1 likes this.
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  8. #6
    Greenhorn
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    Before buying my clutch I did read about lightweight flywheels and their requirements.
    I was able to purchase the aftermarket (upgraded) clutch and use a stock weight flywheel.
    I had noticed my steering wheel is a spline or two off.
    I’m a broad guy, squeezing in to get to the steering coupler is a pain in the a$$. If this could be the reason. I’ll squeeze myself back in there and readjust it.

  9. #7
    Big Timer!!! 9thgensifamily's Avatar
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    I've not heard of this issue before, let us know how it turns out. Sounds like you did your homework on clutch before purchase. This may be the first time I've read about limp mode on these cars.
    Good luck, you'll get it.

  10. #8
    Greenhorn
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    It’s been over a week since I last updated.
    2 weekends ago it stumbled check engine light came on and would not exceed 3000 RPMs. Turned the ignition off for a few seconds. Turn it back on and issue is gone. At the same time check emissions system, check power steering system and another that I can’t remember. (It’s just one or two check lights. It’s always the same 3 and they are always together)
    Went to the parts store with the system lights on to get codes pulled. Bank 1 misfire, Bank 2 misfire, Bank 3 misfire and Bank 4 misfire. Because I had replaced all plugs, #4 coil and #4 injector plus cleaned out the fuel rail (as recommended) I’m thinking of what I’ve read and what the mechanic had mentioned. Reading here MAF sensor could make it not rev over 3000-4000RPMs. Mechanic said scanner is showing little to nothing to/from MAF sensor. I decided to order one.
    Replaced it last Tuesday evening. No issues at all. Thought it was courted. Was going to come on here and say it was fixed. Got side tracked. 7 days 11 hours after new MAF sensor was installed. It happend on my way into work. And again on the way home.
    My neighbor is a mechanic. Saw him outside. Asked him what he thinks it could be. He said he had a Honda (did not mention year or model) that would do something similar. He replaced either the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor. It fixed his problem.
    Opinions on this possible fix? How do I test to tell if they are still good or bad? The crank position sensor is $90 and the cam position sensor (requires 2) is $250 for both.
    So this is not something I’m wanting to get and SEE IF IT FIXES my issue.

    I know this was long. I’m sorry. As in my first post, any info is appreciated. Thanks

  11. #9
    Big Timer!!! 9thgensifamily's Avatar
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    The best trouble shooting tool I've purchased is a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner. A app on a phone or tablet can give you live readings of many sensors, most give more sensor info if you pay $5. See what sensors dropping out, or read all the OBD2 codes and hope someone's had them. It's intermittent, so I'd think of what you was doing and what the conditions were when it's happened. I only say this cause I didn't do this on my Subaru and got hit with a bad spark plug wire.

  12. #10
    Greenhorn
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    I’m starting to regret going aftermarket clutch.
    I took it to the dealership. The issue happened as they drove it. They said because it’s an aftermarket clutch and flywheel (OEM weight) those are what’s making it go into limp/safe mode. They didn’t show or say anything to back this up.
    Took the car to the shop that I purchase the parts for me. Explained what the dealer had mentioned. Made an appt that following week. The car went into the limp/safe mode for them also.
    Because all codes were saying misfire bank whatever, they checked the fuel system. Pressure and all that. Everything was good.
    The mechanic noticed a very slight vibration. Put it on the lift. Removed the inspection plate. He was able to show me some flex in the fly wheel. He said the flywheel is vibrating to a point that makes it go into the limp/safe mode. They said the bolts had loosened up. (Loosened up with red locktite)?
    So, I pull the trans, clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. Checked the tightness of the flywheel bolts prior to removing them. All were 91+ lbs torque. Put all back together this time I added an extra 10 lbs of torque to flywheel and pressure plate.
    Did this on a Saturday, test drove. Didn’t drive Sunday. 75ish miles Monday. Then, Tuesday. First 35 or so miles to work fine. Went to an apt. Within 5 miles it did it’s thing again. Called the shop, explained it’s still doing it. They said they can look at it same day.
    They put it on the lift. Inspect the the flywheel. Guess what? IT’S LOOSE AGAIN!
    Now they are saying the bolts are bottoming out (this is not a 2012 flywheel) I need shorter bolts.

    Are the thread lengths different between the 2012 civics, older civics, newer civics?
    Hell, what about the flywheel differences as well?

    I’m not mad or frustrated at the shop employees. I’m getting frustrated with the clutch and flywheel companies.

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