Clutch Delay Valve
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Thread: Clutch Delay Valve

  1. #1
    Greenhorn
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Clutch Delay Valve

    Hi everyone!

    Looking to delete the CDV. I understand that there are 2 12mm bolts holding it onto the tranny case, and one 10mm nut for the clutch line.

    In attempting to loosen the 10mm line, the assembly it is plugged into turns with it as well.

    This may sound dumb, but am I to hold that piece that is also turning as well in place, while simultaneously loosening the 10mm nut?

    I have attempted to loosen the 10mm nut, but it is so stiff that the nut itself has actually bent.

    Also, when I turned it a bit, the clutch line turned with it (not good).

    How the hell am I supposed to get this loosened?
    Last edited by msaluta; 07-02-2019 at 07:46 PM.

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  3. #2
    Big Pimping!!! dpetro1's Avatar
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    Be very careful not to damage the hard line. Use a flare nut wrench to avoid rounding off the nut.
    Use lots of pb blaster and work the nut back and forth to break the nut free from the hardline, then loosen it all the way.
    Get this loosened before you remove the 2 12mm bolts.


    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    procivic, bfaided1984 and Aviator6 like this.

  4. #3
    Greenhorn
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    If I were to buy the K tuned master and slave, would that replace that entire hard line?

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  6. #4
    Top Dawg!! bfaided1984's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpetro1 View Post
    Be very careful not to damage the hard line. Use a flare nut wrench to avoid rounding off the nut.
    Use lots of pb blaster and work the nut back and forth to break the nut free from the hardline, then loosen it all the way.
    Get this loosened before you remove the 2 12mm bolts.


    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Yup me and modrid can tell you what happens when you do round off that nut.
    modrid81 likes this.
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  7. #5
    Nooblets Aviator6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpetro1 View Post
    Be very careful not to damage the hard line. Use a flare nut wrench to avoid rounding off the nut.
    Use lots of pb blaster and work the nut back and forth to break the nut free from the hardline, then loosen it all the way.
    Get this loosened before you remove the 2 12mm bolts.


    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Exactly, and the "flare nut" wrenches are sometimes referred to as "line wrenches", depending on the mechanic you're talking to!
    2013 Civic Si /// 2019 Pilot EX-L

  8. #6
    Supporting Vendor procivic's Avatar
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    Like all the other members mentioned, using a Flare Nut Wrench is KEY! Here's a pic for reference:

    Clutch Delay Valve-img61874763.jpg

    Also, you can check out our Master / Slave Cylinder Upgrade Kit that will set you up with everything you need for this conversion:

    SiriMoto N1 Clutch Master / Slave Cylinder Upgrade Kit
    Clutch Delay Valve-sm-n1-hc06-cmc-csc-kit_def_lrg.jpg

  9. #7
    Big Timer!!! modrid81's Avatar
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    I ended up replacing the entire hardine set from the master cylinder on. Shockingly not expensive. My car is from up North, so all the connections were corroded. Me and faided never even got my slave open. I have to replace the entire thing.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  10. #8
    Greenhorn
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    I ended up buying the full K-Tuned master/slave kit. From what I read, the hardline is eliminated with the new kit anyway, though I should still invest in some of those wrenches.

  11. #9
    Big Timer!!! modrid81's Avatar
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    I would have done the same, but I didn't want to replace the master and slave at the time. I asked about a line that had reg connections instead of 90* ones, but never heard back.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  12. #10
    Greenhorn
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    Hey guys, is removing the CDV actually worth it? I keep hopping out of my AP1 (no delay valve) and getting in my '13 Si and its like learning to drive stick again its so different.. Will removing it make it feel more like an old-school setup?

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