DIY: Front Sway Bar Removal
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Thread: DIY: Front Sway Bar Removal

  1. #1
    Big Timer!!! Sgt.Mecca's Avatar
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    DIY: Front Sway Bar Removal

    The purpose of removing the front sway bar on your 9th gen civic:
    - 8th generation coilovers do in fact fit out cars. For the rear, it is already known that you must order 8th gen rear rubber isolators for the springs because the 9th gen top hats and springs are smaller. This will allow for a snug fit of the 8th gen rear springs on your 9th gen chassis.
    - 8th generation civics do not have a factory front sway bar. Our 9th generation civics DO have a front sway bar from the factory. This means when you install the 8th gen coilovers, there will be no mount for the end links and the front sway bar will not bolt to anything. If you simply remove the end links and install the 8th gen suspension, your front sway bar on the 9th gen will be moving around and sliding back and forth un-controllable.
    - This DIY will show the process of how I removed my front sway bar, due to the fact that there is no link mounts.

    Disclaimer:

    This is a step by step process on how to remove the 9th generation front sway bar, in order to successfully install 8th generation coilovers on a 9th gen civc. This “DIY” (do-it-yourself) is a detailed explanation on how I did it, MYSELF.
    I do not take any responsibility for potential actions performed due to this write up. If you decide that you have learned enough, have enough experience, and have the proper tools to do this install…..your are doing so at YOUR OWN RISK. This DIY will be written in first person (as myself) or in the third person (One must, one may, one should…..). Sometimes I will say “you can, try this…, get someone to, etc.” but that will only be for basic tasks, tasks that I know you cannot screw up on or break anything if you *attempt this DIY* at your own risk.


    Pre- DIY **Notes** PLEASE READ ALL before starting:
    - When removing the front sway bar, one MUST use a hoist and a sub-frame support jack. If access to these tools is not available, one will not be able to complete the installation with ease.

    -If the car has a locking lug nut set, please retrieve the locking nut key in the glove box and/or trunk prior to starting any steps.

    - The car should be parked in an area with good lighting and possibly some cover just in case of bad weather (if work is done outside)

    - Before removing key from ignition, roll down both front windows, fully open sunroof, open trunk and pop the hood.
    (While completing the installation, the car will either be on a hoist or on 4 jack stands. One should never enter a car while on a hydraulic hoist OR jack stands for obvious safety reasons. By popping the hood, opening the trunk and rolling down the front windows AT THE START….one will have access to the entire car without ever opening up a door )

    - Turn off the car, apply the emergency hand brake and put the car into gear.


    DIY: 9th gen Front sway bar removal

    Step 1. Start off by using a 19mm socket to remove your lugs nuts on both front rims (Note: If the vehicle has a locking nut set, this is where the pre-DIY preparation comes in handy. The locking key shouldn’t be in the car, and one shouldn’t have to open a door while the car is already on the hoist. )

    Also** ( you may skip this very detailed reading if you think you’re a genius already, or if you have some technical/mechanical experience)

    It was stated in Pre-DIY to put the car into gear, this will lock the transmission and front wheels…….”but wait a minute!? When ‘one’ goes to remove the lug nuts, the wheels start to spin?? I thought by putting the car into gear the wheels will lock?”
    Oh, good observation young grasshopper! Try getting a friend to spin your driver’s side wheel towards the front of the car, while standing on the passenger side of the car you will notice the wheel will start to spin towards the back of the car. That my friend, is your tranny lock. If the car was on a hill and let’s say it started to roll backwards, the front wheel (let’s say) would start to roll back but the passenger side would roll in the reverse order (forward). This in turn would actually cancel out and cause no roll when the car is in gear, either of the front wheels cannot roll in any direction (significantly) without affecting the other. *takes a breath*, So your front wheels while on a hoist/or jack will never actually lock up solid, UNLESS someone is inside the car applying the regular foot brake (very unsafe while car is in the air). You have 2 options, #1 while the car was still on the ground (or just put it back on the ground since you must be using a hoist) just loosen the lug nuts slightly* while the tires are touching the floor. I put stars around loosen lugs *slightly* because while the car in on the floor, it is putting pressure on the studs and rims. You only want to loosen them so that you can continue once the car is in the air. #2 option is to get a friend to hold onto the rim while you are breaking the lug nuts free.







    Step 2. Once all of lugs nuts have been removed, one can remove the wheel and place it off to the side.






    Step 3. This is a picture of your end link. One side of the end link is bolted to the front sway bar and the other side is bolted to your shock assembly. Remove the top nut bolting your end link to the shock.

    Pictured below is the location of the top of the end link and the shock assembly




    Step 4. The very bottom bolt in the following picture is the other side of your end link. This is where your front sway bar bolts onto.





    Step 5. To remove the lower portion of the end link that is bolted to the sway bar, one must use a 17mm wrench over the nut, and place an allen key in the middle portion. While holding the allen key in the same position, one must loosen the nut by turning it to the left. (Remember to hold the allen key)

    (I will update this thread later on exact size wrench and allen, I misplaced the paper I used to record the measurements)





    Step 6. Once the nut is removed, the front sway bar should just slide right off.





    Step 7. Now, looking down the direction of the drive shaft (while using a light) one will see an upside down u shape clamp. This is the clamp and rubber grommet that is holding in your front sway bar. On other cars this bracket is mounted underneath the sub-frame. That would allow for easy removal, remove 4 bolts and drop the sway bar. On 9th gens, the u clamp and grommet is mounted on top of the sub-frame and the bolts are a little tricky to get access to. One must use a regular flat wrench and patiently remove the bolts half turn at a time.





    Step 8. The front sway bar has two u clamps and grommets holding it in place, and each clamp has 2 bolts. In step 7, the picture shows the bolt closest to the front of the car. The following picture of taken from underneath the car, looking towards the front. You can see the u clamp in the picture and this time the nut looks black just because it has grease and rust proofing on it.






    Step 9. The only way to access these bolts is to use a flat wrench and to turn it half turn at a time. It will take a few minute for each bolt, but you will start to make some progress….








    Step 10. Once both bolts are removed successfully, one will be able to lift the metal u clamp and reveal the rubber grommet. Don’t worry too much about the rubber grommet because it has a cut on one side of it, and one can simply pull it off of the sway bar by hand. (both sides)








    Step 11. Now once you removed the metal u clamp, you will see the rubber grommet (on both sides)






    Step 12. Slide the rubber grommet down the front sway bar in order to access it a bit easier… ( you must do so for both sides)






    NOTE** So far you have removed:
    - 10 lug nuts ( 5 on each wheel)
    - 2 front end links ( 4 bolts – two connecting sway bar, two on the shock assembly)
    - 2 metal u clamps mounted directly on top of the sub-frame ( 4 bolts in total)
    - 2 rubber grommet ( remove by hand)

    At this stage, you have un-bolted the front sway bar and all of its components. The only problem that arises is that there is no way to pull of the metal sway bar. The space between the drive shafts and sub-frame is not enough for the sharp bends of the front sway bar to phish around.

    The following steps will involve dropping the front sub-frame and sliding out the front sway bar. This DIY is almost finished, but one SHOULD NOT rush this part. You must use a sub-frame support jack and insure that another person is present to assist you ( I couldn’t imagine someone attempting this on their own)



    Step 13. Step 13 is below…… ** CAUTION – MUST READ ENTIRE NOTE ** : Before one may remove any bolts from the sub-frame, one MUST use a sub-frame support jack. I cannot stress how important this is! There is tremendous weight and pressure being applied vertically down (law of gravity) onto the sub-frame. The sub-frame is held up by approx. 10 bolts. The entire weight and stress of the sub-frame and all of its components and transferred to the threads of these 10 bolts (I believe it’s 10 in total? I will double check when I get a chance). If one attempts to loosen the sub-frame support bolts without using a sub-frame jack, one will most definitely strip not only the bolts, (which are somewhat easy to replace) BUT the actual chassis threads . If the bolts happen to strip, even though the sub-frame jack was used, you can order them from myself (I work at a Honda dealer) or simply your local Honda dealer. If one happens to strip or cross thread the chassis threads, good luck!

    - Step 13 (after you’ve read the caution note)
    Since the car will already be lifted onto a hoist, by using a sub-frame jack you will not be “raising” the car at all. Place the sub-frame jack towards the back portion of the sub-frame. You will not be lowering the sub-frame completely, so placing the sub-frame in the middle for the most support (like most mechanics or techs would say must be done) is wrong in this case. Jack up the sub-frame jack just enough to put some pressure on the sub-frame (realize that the jack will be on the floor and forcing the sub-frame to go up into the chassis). Be carefully not the jack it up too much to the point where the car begins the rise/lift off the hoist.

    One will be removing only the bolts from the back portion of the sub-frame, and one is essentially just lowering the back portion in order to slide out the front sway bar. Temporarily, 4 main bolts will be removed and 2 will be loosened half way. This will allow for the rear of the sub-frame to drop about 1.5” on an angle.








    Step 14. In the following picture, you can see the front sway bar dangling and that big black nut beside it (that’s what she said). You need to remove that big black nut on both sides





    Step 15. The sub-frame jack is still being used in the next picture, it has just been moved farther back. Here is the driver’s side bolt almost removed ( we used an impact gun obviously, pictures are taken for the purpose of the DIY).

    [IMG] https://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/att...6&d=1340201957 [/IMG]

    Passenger side fully removed





    Step 16. Now using the location of the 2 black bolts as a reference point, count 2 holes towards the front of the car and then 2 holes towards the left. There is one silver bolt on either side of the sub-frame. One does not need to remove these bolts fully, but simply loosen them about half way.





    Step 17. This is a picture of the driver’s side. Using the end link as a reference point (only in the picture, one should have removed the end link in a previous step) locate the silver bolt that sits inside the square tubing (directly to the right and behind the end link).
    One must fully remove these 2 smaller silver bolts on either side of the sub-frame.





    Step 18. Now the 2 large black bolts ( I called them nuts before because I didn’t want some person looking for a black ‘bolt’ to remove, instead of a black nut….the head on the bolt) , 2 large silver bolts (step 16) have been only loosened half way and the 2 smaller silver bolts (located near the end link inside square ‘like’ tubing) has been fully removed…..you can now proceed to the actual removal of the sway bar and lowering of the subframe

    **NOTE** To Re-Cap one more time: The sub-frame support jack should now be holding the weight of the sub-frame and it should not have lowered or moved.


    -Step 18. One must make sure no person is beneath the car or the hoist. Now this step should be pretty straight forward. One person can go beneath the car in order to access the bar needed to lower the sub-frame hoist OR depending on the sub-frame jack position and style, you may be able to do so from the front of the car. Lower the Sub-frame JACK two inches down…..NOT the actual sub-frame two inches. This is because the sub-frame probably won’t even drop when you lower the sub-frame jack 2 inches. One might get confused and continue lowering the sub-frame jack because the sub-frame didn’t come with it!? It is most likely held on tight by grease and/or rust proofing.
    Once the sub-frame jack is lowered 2 inches, one will mostly likely need to use a crow bar to pry down the sub-frame from the chassis. Do not worry about scratching up the chassis or sub-frame with the crow bar, it is the under body anyways.






    Step 19. Once the sub-frame is lowered it might not actually lower 2 inches like the jack ( it depends on the bolts in the middle and how much force was used to pry down the sub-frame). If more space is needed to slide out the front sway bar, DO NOT attempt to loosen the bolts more, simply use the assistance of another individual. While one person is using the crow bar to push the sub-frame down….the other person can slide out the sway bar one side at a time.


    Front sway bar successfully removed!





    Step 20. Here is the front sway bar once it is removed, congratulations






    Step 21. Now it’s time to work backwards! Begin by raising the sub-frame jack by 2 inches (or back to the original position).
    Screw in the 2 big black bolts by hand and the 2 smaller silver screws. One must make sure the bolts are properly threaded and not angled the slightest bit or they will not bolt up completely flush to the sub-frame/chassis. Tighten the 2 black/2 smaller silver bolts as much as one possibly can by hand; next tighten the 2 larger silver bolts that were only loosened half way.
    In order to make sure the sub-frame bolts are installed safely, one must use an air impact gun and I would recommend it to be placed on the highest setting. The sub-frame bolts will most likely not be removed any time in the near future….

    [IMG] https://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/att...8&d=1340202002 [/IMG]



    Step 22. Once the 6 bolts have been fully tighten and secured using an impact gun, one may now proceed to lower and remove the sub-frame jack. Do so in a slow manner to insure everything runs smoothly.


    Step 23. One can now proceed to re-install the wheels and lug nuts


    Step 24. Tighten the lug nuts fully by hand first in order to ensure equal amount of pressure and force is applied when your torqueing. At Honda we usually torque standard OEM lugs to 85 ft/lbs


    Step 25. You may now fully lower the car and drive it out of the hoist area.



    There it is son, 25 straight forward/fully explained/pictured detailed steps on how to remove your front sway bar on a 9th generation Honda civic. Now that this is complete, you can proceed to install 8th generation coilovers on your 9th gen civic.

    Thanks for your time, and your welcome!
    Paul99to17, lumnut13v and gpgt90 like this.
    Driving a bucket that runs 9's is like having a fat girlfriend who's a good f*ck.....nothing to brag about

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  3. #2
    Big Timer!!! Sgt.Mecca's Avatar
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    ****post reserved for possible updates/pictures****
    Driving a bucket that runs 9's is like having a fat girlfriend who's a good f*ck.....nothing to brag about

  4. #3
    H2O in hydrant - K9P out Paul99to17's Avatar
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    I would never do this myself, but I had to reply to say that this was a very well written and excellently detailed DIY. I'm sure it will be very appreciated by many members. Thanks for taking the time to do such a thorough job. The only suggestion I have is to perhaps add little arrows using a "Paint" type of program to point out the specific details that you refer to in each photo. I still give this DIY an A+

    EDIT:
    lol....7 months later and "never" has arrived. Presently looking to upgrade both bars for my LX.
    Last edited by Paul99to17; 01-15-2013 at 10:26 PM.
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  6. #4
    Big Pimping!!! dagocrazy's Avatar
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    ^^^^+1 I defiantly would not do this to put on coilovers or for any other reason except to replace it with a larger one. I would have found the brackets from the coilovers that were used by other members or had a pair fabed up by my local welding shop that i could have bolted on so that i could have kept the sway bar. they were simple steel brackets wrapped around the shock and had a tab to mount the end of the link bar i believe.. Write up is excellent tho.
    Last edited by dagocrazy; 06-20-2012 at 10:10 PM.
    2012 CBP Civic SI Coupe......Hondata Flash Pro Tuned by Vit,RBC Intake manifold,Ultimate Racing 3'' High flow Catted Downpipe, Full-Race 3'' Cat back Exhaust,8th gen AEM CAI, 17'' Sparco Assetto Gara Wheels, Road Magnet Lowering Springs,Eibach Rear Anti Sway Bar,Buddy Club Short Shifter, OEM Honda Projector headlights, Xentec 4300 Ultra White Hid low beams,Eibach rear camber adjust arms, K24z7 Crew #90. 200hp club member #8 225.7 Hp on e85. 218 on 92 ocatne pump gas.

  7. #5
    Big Timer!!! Sgt.Mecca's Avatar
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    Before anythng, id like to make it known that i talk a lot and i like to explain myself fully. Some people find it annoying and some people don't have enough patience to read all my posts but i guarantee you that there is a % of you that is learning a lot when i break things down and there are people who appreciate the fact that im trying to contribute as much as i can to the future 9th gen community. That being said, i try to stick to the point when i can but i will most likely label some areas of my future posts as "read on if you wish" because i know that some people just don't give a shit


    Quote Originally Posted by Paul99to17 View Post
    I would never do this myself, but I had to reply to say that this was a very well written and excellently detailed DIY. I'm sure it will be very appreciated by many members. Thanks for taking the time to do such a thorough job. The only suggestion I have is to perhaps add little arrows using a "Paint" type of program to point out the specific details that you refer to in each photo. I still give this DIY an A+
    Thanks man, initially i was going to add in small red arrows with paint, but i think this thread has about 28 pictures, plus i still have to write up my DIY: 8th gen coils on 9th gen.....which might include another 25-30 pictures. I just haven't had the time to edit 60+ pictures and write up detailed DIY's. Maybe in the future i will edit this thread and update it.

    Quote Originally Posted by dagocrazy View Post
    ^^^^+1 I defiantly would not do this to put on coilovers or for any other reason except to replace it with a larger one. I would have found the brackets from the coilovers that were used by other members or had a pair fabed up by my local welding shop that i could have bolted on so that i could have kept the sway bar. they were simple steel brackets wrapped around the shock and had a tab to mount the end of the link bar i believe.. Write up is excellent tho.
    The 8th gen civics did not come with a front sway bar, and many cars stil do not come with front sway bars....
    Just because the 9th civic came with one from factory doesn't mean you shouldn't remove it. Many people actual remove their front sway bar for track purposes. It doesn't affect the structural integrity of the front suspension or actual frame rigidity.......main affect is handing control at high speeds. With my car as low as it is now, high speed control is very stable just due to the height, the camber settings and the fact that im low and i only drive at high speeds when i know the roads are perfect.

    Below i will explain my sketch experience with D2 racing, but the reason i didnt fabricate any brackets is because i didnt want to permanently mod my Buddy Club N+. If you view the pictures you can see that the link mount bracket is near the top of the OEM shock, but on N+ coils the same location is just all threads. The only part you can weld onto is the strut bolt location, which is signifantly lower. Two options where to find extremely short end links, and then still weld on a bracket, OR weld on a very long bracket that extends to the top of the coilovers to mount onto the long stock OEM end links. Once you actually get into the technical work of fabricating brackets, it becomes a significant project. The last option is to find threaded link mounts that thread onto the coils and you can adjust the position, (offered by D2 racing, but only if you use their coilovers). The VERY last option is to find 2 u-clamps to bolt up and hug the coilover sleeve, but even then the mounting position would be very low due to the nature of the coilover spring sitting in a lower position then OEM. So far there is no simple solution unless you have D2 coilovers and you purchase D2 link mounts.....OR just remove your front sway bar because your lowering your car anyways and the front sway bar is setup to work with OEM suspension, not your coilovers with pre-load and dampening settings.


    You may skip reading this part. This is my RANT on why i did not fabricate end link brackets, and how D2 racing did not provide me with any assistance what so ever

    The brackets that other members have used are from D2 racing. They were referred to as link mounts. Initially when i did my research, i was not able to find a part # for these "link mounts", i was simply told to call and ask for the part. I found this a bit odd because if a company is selling parts, i would assume they have specific part #'s for inventory and sales purposes. When i emailed D2 racing (back in the day when the 9th gens first came out), he told me in an email they are $50 for the pair and sent me a nice picture of them. When i was planning to purchase these link mounts, i wanted to call and confirm price and what specs are the thread pitch. These link mounts need to specifically thread onto your coilover sleeve. When i called D2 racing to place the order, i was compelled to ask a few questions and make sure everything ran smoothly with no miscommunication.

    The man told me they do not have a part # and it will cost me $150 + tax + shipping (even though he told me before it was $50 for the pair, not knowing i was the same person). I called him out and stated that i was told before it was $50 and that other members from the 9th generation community had recently purchased them for $50. He avoided the question and said, "yeah the link mounts are 150 dollars plus tax and shipping". Okay that's fine, one more question.... what is your return or exchange policy? I will obviously not use the link mounts, but i need to simply test fit them to make sure it fits. He told me it would fit %100 immediately, and at that time i told him it was for skunk 2 coilvers (this is before i bought my Buddy Club N+). He said he wasnt sure if they would fit because of the thread side on the skunk 2's and the thread size of the link mount. I told him that i would purchase them and test fit them mysellf, but if they did not fit i would pay for the shipping back to him and asked if he would refund or offer me an exchange for another D2 item. He stated, "No i will not refund or exchange the part since your not using them with our D2 coilovers. I told you that we are not sure if they fit, so if you still want to buy them, then you can". At that point i was very polite and told him that was okay, and that i would contact him when im ready to order. Now as some of you may know, i didn't end up buying skunk2 coilovers, i decided to go with Buddy Club N+ . I havent attempted calling D2 back and asking if they work with Buddy Club coils because im assuming he would tell me the exact same thing.

    The moral of the story is he was not helpful at all, he just wanted me to buy his 9th gen D2 racing coilovers. Im not exactly sure how much the "9th gen" d2 racing coilovers cost but one of my friend told me he spent around 1800 bucks after taxes +shipping+duties getting them into Canada. The reason i put "9th gen" in quotes is because they claim they are specifically made for 9th gen civics. All they do is grab the 8th generation coilovers, spin on the 2 link mounts and put in the box 2 larger rear rubber isolators for the springs (from the 8th gen). They market the kit as specifically for the 9th gen only because they can state its 'direct bolt on' and now you all know the only reason its bolt on is because of the link mounts which they do not want to sell to me if im not installing them on their own coilovers. Thank you D2 racing for all your contribution and innovation towards the 9th gen community, and the time you took to put up with me /RANT
    BranNew$iGuy likes this.
    Driving a bucket that runs 9's is like having a fat girlfriend who's a good f*ck.....nothing to brag about

  8. #6
    One Bad Mama Jama!!! TantalizedMind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul99to17 View Post
    I would never do this myself, but I had to reply to say that this was a very well written and excellently detailed DIY. I'm sure it will be very appreciated by many members. Thanks for taking the time to do such a thorough job. The only suggestion I have is to perhaps add little arrows using a "Paint" type of program to point out the specific details that you refer to in each photo. I still give this DIY an A+
    Agreed. Too much labor for mwah. I'd buy sway bars and have someone else do it. Would it be silly to bring Eibach sway bars to a Honda dealership and ask them to install it? I don't have much faith in other local body shops around me.


    Edit: But a big THANK YOU to Sgt.Mecca for this informative DIY!
    Last edited by TantalizedMind; 08-13-2012 at 11:27 PM.
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  9. #7
    Platinum Member Ace-ington's Avatar
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    after reading this DIY it kinda scares me thinking about upgrading to the eibach front sway bar, doing the rear sway bar was alot easier then what this seem like. Sgt.Mecca would this be possible to do in a driveway with a jack and jack stands?
    mongoose221 likes this.
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  10. #8
    Nooblets
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    ^what he said.
    i'm a little scared to do my front sway bar now too, glad i didn't order it yet!!

  11. #9
    Big Timer!!! Sgt.Mecca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ace-ington View Post
    after reading this DIY it kinda scares me thinking about upgrading to the eibach front sway bar, doing the rear sway bar was alot easier then what this seem like. Sgt.Mecca would this be possible to do in a driveway with a jack and jack stands?
    I would NOT recommend it do be done on jacks or jack stands. When the bolts for the sub frame begin to loosen up, the weight and pressure applied downwards is huge. If you begin to use another jack to lift the sub frame up, theres a chance you might lift the car off the original jack stands. The benefit on being on a hoist is that you can use a sub frame jack to apply to correct pressure upwards to keep it in place and it allows for better access to those tricky bolts holding the metal 'u' clamps in place.
    Driving a bucket that runs 9's is like having a fat girlfriend who's a good f*ck.....nothing to brag about

  12. #10
    Platinum Member Ace-ington's Avatar
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    Well thats a bummer i guess i will have to use the associates garage at work looking at picking up the eibach front sway bar just more of a hassle having to book a time at the shop instead of doing it at home

    Sent from my SGH-I727R using AutoGuide.Com Free App
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