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12-15 Stock SI Wheel & Tire/PSI thread.

72K views 92 replies 50 participants last post by  scottyrocks 
#1 ·
Post all questions regarding stock SI wheel and stock tire questions.
 
#2 ·
Anybody running there stock 2013 si wheels as winter wheels? I was thinking about buying an aftermarket set of wheels for summer and using my tires on the si wheels for those and then buying a set of winters for the stock wheels, just wondering how well the stock wheels will hold up to the salt and stuff. The car will be gettin rust checked and the wheels will most likley get some overspray on them which should offer a little bit of protection but they are gonna get pretty salt covered over the winter. I didn't drive the car this winter but it seems kinda pointless to store a car that has heated seats and mirrors only to drive a beat up ol sunfire that breaks down and I can't fix it in the garage because my civic is in there all covered up..lol
 
#8 ·
I plan to run my stock rims as winter only rims. The winters here are mild and roads are not crazy salted though and I have access to underground car wash so I can spray the car/rims regularly during winter time.
 
#3 ·
If it was me (and it isn't), I'd go with a cheap set of steelies for the winter on salt covered roads. Why trash those nice Si wheels if you don't have to.

Steelies can always be sanded and repainted.
 
#4 ·
I thought about it but then that adds another 420 bucks to my order on top of tires and I just thought if I could get away with using the stockers I could get some aftermarket wheels for summer,and there is no way I can get both at that kind of price. Summer wheels alone where just shy of 1000 bucks and thats with wheels that where 150 dollars at tire rack but by the time I get canada's sales tax and all the shipping....well yea it adds up quickly. heck the cheapest steelie I could find was 90 bucks a piece then add 15% tax on that and I'm 103 bucks per wheel for steelies....crazy. We don't have any options for local wheels other than a shop about 45 mins away but because they are the only ones around they gouge people pretty bad some times. I don't want to run the si wheels but I figured if I could protect them somehow they would be alright.
 
#58 ·
I think if you go to your Honda dealer they sell factory steelies for around 60-70 dollars Canadian. The problem with aluminum rims in the winter besides the surface corrosion is salt and sand getting between the rim and tire in the bead area, as tire /wheel turns it gradually works its way in and corrosion starts on the bead area, a year or two down the road when air starts leaking in the bead area, some guy will take a grinder and grind out the corroded aluminum, put some sealer on and remount your tires, you are good for another year, but now damage has been done and you are on a downward slope. Steel wheels will last the life of your car, just clean them before putting them away for the summer so salt does not work on them in the warm months.
 
#5 ·
I can get steelies for about $50 a wheel, used, though. It takes a little work, but they're out there.
 
#6 ·
Heck, I just thought of something.

You could pdip your stock Si wheels, and peel them when the winter ends. Or just leave them dipped, if they're just gonna be your winter wheels.

Plastidip is a rubber coating that will protect your wheels.
 
#7 ·
I thought about dipping them, then I thought about dipping them white to match the car and lowering it and not bothering with aftermarket wheels but some of them look so good it's hard to resist....I have some time to figure it out before next winter. I'll probably just suck it up and buy some steelies and run the stockers for a few more summers lol I'm more interested in a flash pro than rims but was kinda hoping to have it all...I think my wants are bigger than my bank account lol Thanks for the insight tho.
 
#9 ·
I just hit 18,000 miles, and was told my tread is bout 3mm on the back and 4mm on the front now. Basically I need new tires. Do you guys recommend going with the same size as the stock michelin tires? I was looking at getting Yokohama S-Drives.

I really want to get 17x9 RPF1 +35, but I can't afford those yet. :/
Didn't know if I could get 235 40 17s, and fit those on the stock si wheels?
 
#11 ·
I run steel wheels in winter and have my stock wheels for summer. I agree with Scotty, the roads are crap and full of salt so why run alloys? I got my 17" steels brand new for $80 a piece. I also kind of like how the car looks with them on. Just the black looks nice.....not so much the steel wheel.
 
#12 ·
Okay, I'ma just run the stock tire size for OEM, and then put 235 45 17 on the RPF1s if I ever get em.
 
#15 ·
I'm gonna bet they're the same as the 18" HFP wheels.

18x7 with a 45mm offset. The bolt pattern is 5x114.3.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Alright so I got curious and decided to take off one of these wheels to see what all was under there, and this is what I found:
The wheels are 18x7.5J ET 47 and they're stamped with the Enkei logo. That's kinda cool!
Although the rubber is 225/40/18, it doesn't appear to be stretched at all. I think it's a bit unusual that when you search Tirerack for suitable rims for this car, it says the recommended tire size is 215mm wide for an 18x8 rim, even though I'd read other places that Tire Rack isn't allowed to recommend stretched fittings (this was from the VW/Audi crowd).
In terms of inboard-outboard clearance up front, it seems like the thing you might run into first is the top mount of the sway bar drop link which sits right under the spring perch on the shock body. There's about 1.5" to the side of the stock tire.
I still haven't looked in the back yet to see what might be limiting back there.
 

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#22 ·
And they're Enkeis, can you believe? Mine had already been curbed too, during a test drive or something before I took delivery of the car. But I flagged it to the dealer and they had it refurb'd by a subcontractor, and now she's good as new.
 
#39 ·
I was trying to do this in the order of posted but I'll ask.



The 14 Si wheels are over 50 lbs with the tire.
My HFP wheels with the tire on are about 46-47 lbs.
A stock 2014 SI wheel is $343 or ~$250 with a good vendor. 3-4 lb savings sounds OK but I suppose tire size can play into this greatly. For example, go wider tire and gain lbs.

How much lighter is a Kosei and how many lbs off do you need to feel the rotational weight savings to liven up the car? Are the ultra light weights Chinese paper vs. the stockers as I already bent a rim on a pothole.
 
#30 ·
Question about swapping wheels. Have the opportunity to buy new 13' si takeoff wheels dirt cheap. I have a 2012. My dealership mechanic said the tpms sensors are different in 2013's from 2012's and that my tpms will throw a light if I do not swap my current sensors into the 13' wheels. Can anyone confirm this?? Sorry if this show be moved to tpms thread.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#34 ·
Older ones are based on pressure and the new style is based on wheel speed. The 2013 and up do not have sensors in the tires at all. Which is weird because I'm not sure when they changed over but my 2013 DOES have sensors in them and is based on pressure.
 
#35 ·
I actually prefer that "old" style where it's based on pressure from individual wheels. The Pontiac I traded in on the Civic had a screen in their version of the iMID that would show you individual pressures in each wheel, which I really appreciated. The problem with the "new" style that's based on wheel speed is that if the two tires on the same axle lose pressure together slowly at the same rate, their relative wheel speed will remain the same and no light would be triggered. You wouldn't know you had low pressure then. At least that's my understanding of how that system works. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
#36 ·
I prefer the method with less possible parts to break or be replaced... and the Honda system never did tell you the pressure on any of the tires. Just a light. Nothing else. The only reason these systems are on economy-class cars at all is due to federal law. Canadian models don't have it.
 
#37 ·
I can't believe I'm about to say this but I actually think that's one thing the Feds did right. I used to have an SRT4 that didn't have any such system. But I was pretty religious about checking the pressures regularly. That didn't stop my driver's side front from developing a bubble in the sidewall one day on the way to work. When the tire place I took it to took the wheel off, the pressure was way low. A TPMS system would have saved me from driving ~50 mi on an under inflated tire and the risk of a blowout.
 
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