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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I just bought a new 2013 Civic Hybrid yesterday. It came from the dealership with 29 miles on the car already (since they had to drive it from another dealership to the one I actually bought it from - didn't have my color in stock). Anyways, I've traveled an additional 70 miles now (so total 100 miles), babying this car as much as possible. AC and heater off, driving like a grandma. Slow acceleration, slow brakes, eco button turned on. Yet I can only bring the average to around 36.3 mpg. Sometimes it even drops to 34 or 35. This is way worse than the 44 advertised mileage. What do you think is happening?

It's nice weather here in Southern California right now too, and I drive pretty flat terrain, about a 50/50 mix of highway and city, though theoretically, it shouldn't matter since both are rated at 44 mpg.

Any thoughts? Thanks!
 

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Reset your trip next time you fill up. You're probably looking at the average MPG from when the car was new. Reset your trip now if you want a better picture of instantaneous mileage. When you fill up reset to zero and run through a full tank and manually calculate the mileage. Whatever number you get, it will probably go up as the engine breaks in.
 

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The fuel tank was not full when you picked it up. Reset the trip like tnmz6i said after filling it up and just drive the way you would normally, just don't ride the brakes and alternate the rpms till 600 miles. You can do a few full throttle acceleration when you are already moving but only when the engine is at operating temps for a few seconds. You want the ecu to see different engine loads to start the correction of the random access maps.
 

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100 miles is not broken in yet. Gotta wait to around 600, as stated above.

I set my trip A to reset every time I fill up. That way I get a better handle on my most current mpgs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. What does alternate rpms mean? Doesn't full throttle not give good mileage? Sorry for the noob questions but how does helping the ecu see different engine loads help? Thanks again!
 

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Alternating rpms means don't drone on the highway at the same speed/rpm all the time. It's a common break-in mistake to do so. You want the engine to run at different speeds for best break-in.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is there a procedure to follow for new Civic break in for 2013? The dealership told me not to change oil until the indicator came on that tells me to change oil...he said DO NOT (he really emphasized this) bring car in for oil change even if it's been forever until the indicator comes on. But I've read people change it at 20 miles and again at 1,000 miles.

How long/often should I go full throttle on the highway during break-in period before I go back down to my nice 65mph speed/constant RPM? Thanks!
 

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I wouldn't go full throttle at all until about 600 miles. Just drive it using most of the rev range, city and highway. And don't drone on the highway.

Change the oil and filter when the car tells you to (15% oil life remaining). That should be at approximately 5k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
How do I get the revs to change? Shift from D to S and L occasionally? To not drone on highway, should I just speed up (maybe not full throttle, but just speed up) and brake every so often? Thanks scottyrocks!

Also read this on another forum about the oil change:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...k-in-a-new-car

He says do the first oil change at 20 miles. (Admittedly, this isn't very practical for a non D-Y-I.) I just changed the oil on my 2013 EX-L at 55 miles, having waited that late because the best deal was from a dealer 20 miles down the road.

And, sure enough, when I poured a bit of the rather new old oil on a black plastic surface I could see so many small, shiny metal flecks in it that it looked like a metal-flake paint job. I'll do another at 1,000 miles, as he recommends. Hey, a DYI oil change and filter with Mobil 1 synthetic and Honda filter from online discounter is under $35.

He also goes into detail on how to drive it when so new. The key is to get it some high rpms on occasion and stay away from long drives at unchanging speeds -- e.g., forget you have cruise control until the engine break-in is done. This is one of my hobbies, so it feels good.
 

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Going full throttle wont hurt the motor if its at operating temp. One car I bought the dealer brought the car up at full throttle. I was pissed off but I got mid 30s with a V6 on the highway.

The ecu has adaptive learning which is learning how to run under normal conditions. It looks at base maps and corrects those for faster look up which will raise the mpg and power.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm pretty noob. Could someone explain what a ecu is? Should I drive like a grandma or should I drive with fast accelerations and high rpms for first 600 miles to help ecu adapt to normal driving conditions?
 

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ECU is the cars main computer. You'll want to mix up driving like granny and the 18 year old boy racer. That's what everybody means.
 

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How do I get the revs to change? Shift from D to S and L occasionally? To not drone on highway, should I just speed up (maybe not full throttle, but just speed up) and brake every so often? Thanks scottyrocks!
No, just drive it. As you accelerate and decelerate the revs will change. The big 'round' gauge in the middle, the tach, will show you the speed the engine's crank is turning. Keep it varied. You only have to do this consciously whil eon the highway because your speed tends to not change (if no traffic). While on the highway, do 55 for a while, 60, 65, up (and down) to whatever you're comfortable with.

Also read this on another forum about the oil change:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...k-in-a-new-car

He says do the first oil change at 20 miles. (Admittedly, this isn't very practical for a non D-Y-I.) I just changed the oil on my 2013 EX-L at 55 miles, having waited that late because the best deal was from a dealer 20 miles down the road.

And, sure enough, when I poured a bit of the rather new old oil on a black plastic surface I could see so many small, shiny metal flecks in it that it looked like a metal-flake paint job. I'll do another at 1,000 miles, as he recommends. Hey, a DYI oil change and filter with Mobil 1 synthetic and Honda filter from online discounter is under $35.

He also goes into detail on how to drive it when so new. The key is to get it some high rpms on occasion and stay away from long drives at unchanging speeds -- e.g., forget you have cruise control until the engine break-in is done. This is one of my hobbies, so it feels good.
Changing the oil before when the car tells you too is not only unnecessary, but may be harmful in the long run, as well. Someone here had written that the oil in your car's new engine is meant to be there for the full length of its factory recommended oil interval, about 5,000 miles. This oil assists in the break-in of your engine. If I have this wrong, someone please correct me, or confirm if it's correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If I just drive while varying speeds on the highway, I have a hard time breaking 3.5k rpm. Usually I'm around 2-3k RPM on the highway around 65mph. Unless I REALLY accelerate hard, then I may be able to get to 4-4.5k, but still no where near the full range of the RPM gauge before red-lining. Do I need to hit 5-6k RPM?

Thanks scottyrocks!
 

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CVT = hard to move those rpms around. Manual = super easy.
 

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You're welcome, corpcivic.

Guys, do the CVTs have an override for the autoness of the tranny? Iow, can you force a manual downshift as you can with a normal auto trans?
 

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You're welcome, corpcivic.

Guys, do the CVTs have an override for the autoness of the tranny? Iow, can you force a manual downshift as you can with a normal auto trans?
Dunno. I drove a hybrid for a couple of days and quickly realized it was a CVT. i had my foot planted the whole time and I can't remember the RPMs getting out of the mid-power range.

To say the least, my plant didn't grow...corpcivic knows what I'm talking about with the plant.
 
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