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2013 LX Rear Speakers

43K views 32 replies 14 participants last post by  WtrDogg20 
#1 ·
I bought a 2013 Civic LX and am disappointed with the rear speakers. The front two sound Much louder than the rear two speakers when faded in the middle. They also put out very little bass compared to the front.


I had some Alpine sps 610s installed by car toys in the rear this week that sounded MUCH worse than the already crappy stock. Less loudness and even less bass. I know they should be properly amped but was expecting some improvement.


The car toys guy said today that it must be a Honda crossover in the stock system limiting the rear deck to get sound and bass. Is this true? I understand stock speakers are less than stellar but the aftermarket sounded even worse in the rear. I put the stock speakers back in. Thoughts??

The front speakers are so much louder than the rears. Anyone else notice this? Is honda really crossing over the rears to sound so bad?

I was considering putting in new speakers all around with an amp. The car toys guy said the stock head unit would still limit the volume and bass in the rear with a new external amp. True or false??

I am not willing to add a new head unit or sub. I know that the two fronts sound more brassy than aftermarket because of the way they design it. BUT if I have speakers in the back producing some punch, it may make up a bit for the loss in the front.

Has anyone amped and only new speakers and noticed they could bypass the honda crossover ??

Thanks!!
 
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#2 ·
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#3 ·
I have searched and have not found the answer to my question. Does putting an amp in bypass the honda crap that boosts the bass in the front and takes the bass away from the rear? I dont want to spend 500 plus for new speakers and an amp and have a similar result with the stock where the front is loud and the rear is very quiet and no bass at all. Thanks.
 
#4 ·
The head unit itself limits the rear signal.

Ask me how I know? I searched.

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#6 ·
The head unit itself limits the rear signal.

Ask me how I know? I searched.
Ah.....this is interesting.....
I have also noticed that the stock rear speakers sound pretty weak. While my expectation is that this is partly due to the speakers themsolves (I will be replacing those stock rear speakers), it has not (until now) occured to me that the stock head unit itself was somehow giving "less" to the rears than it was to the fronts. I do also have to wonder, however, if some of this effect can be adjusted by thoughtful use of the front/rear fader control?
 
#7 ·
Has nothing to do with the speakers.
Fader adjustment won't help.

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#8 ·
Has nothing to do with the speakers.
Fader adjustment won't help.
Yeah......you are right. The fader doesn't solve the issue. Even with all of the *stock* head-unit output sent to the rears, those *stock* rear speakers really sound bad -- much worse than the *stock* front speakers ever sounded (although I have up-graded the fronts).


I have been trying to keep the stock head unit -- I like the low-tech look (and would rather not be a target for theft) I still have not found a solution for the Bluetooth issus either. In all, these observations are nudging me closer to just ditching the Honda head-unit for something that does everything I want......


I guess an interesting experiment would be -- if one had the inclination -- to rout the front speaker outputs to the rear speakers (using the original head unit) -- and see directly how much of an impact the front vs. rear outputs make.....?
 
#9 · (Edited)
The backs are only receiving approximately 10 watts rms
And the front are taking about 50 rms keep in mind for those comparing the fronts are sealed in the doors giving you a punchier bass note as well as the fronts are components,the backs are just there for a sound fill,there getting a full sound range,just like I told paulter in a different post the backs are strictly a mid frequency speaker stock.however im willing to bet the car shop did a standard quick install and I'm willing to bet you have a leak around the speakers as the holes aren't perfect I'm almost certain there's a sound leak causing crappy sound and regardless of the brand of speaker the chances of you getting bass out the back deck in comparison to the front is merely wishful thinking spend all the Money you want on speakers the back will just be a sound fill.many options many options

For example you could run a component coaxial such as Bostons,or an off axis component coaxial such as jl, bit regardless without a proper seal and install they'll sound like some flea market speakers.the ultimate way to Give you insane sound would be a sealed of rear deck but otherwise if your goal is bass and unpowered rears it will never happen

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#13 ·
its personal preference..i personally like to be fully immersed in sound and dont want to hear it completely coming from the front...however its pretty difficult to get good sound coming from the rear deck as effbee states the fronts are sealed and components...the back is free air
 
#14 ·
Man, it amazes me that no stereo masters have figured out an easy solution to this problem that has been talked about for so long. I will put out a challenge for someone to find a relatively inexpensive solution to this problem. Specifically, for someone on a budget who wants to keep the head unit and front speakers and just wants to get reasonable sound out of the rear what to do????
 
#15 ·
I have my stock head with the amp for sale,you can have the 6 speakers too.$200 or BO.


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#17 ·
In car audio the key to audiophiles is front stage performance. All I can recommend is to dig deep and share what you find. If you have an EX or SI how does the tweeter play into the mix of the front audio? Like is there crossover that combines and changes/stabilizes the ohms? Car audio is actually very simple if you remember to keep ohms in check to your amps specs or able tolerance. Like IF the factory Civic 2013 head unit is ?? Ohms per channel you need to match that. If not you can fry the factory stereo if it can not support the ohm load. That is why if you hook a speaker to an amp and it appears louder the ohms maybe be slightly lower increasing the watts of the amp but possibly too much.. or less if the ohms are higher. Like IF the factory stereo requires 4ohms per channel and you put a 6/8 ohm speaker on it will have a much lower volume because it will force the amp to put out less watts. But first things first lets here the model and speakers found.. measure the ohms of each speaker with an ohm meter on and off the wires while turned off.. Report back what you find.
 
#18 ·
I am looking for a solution too. I just want to keep the stock headunit because it is a pain and costs few $$$ to keep steering wheel controls and everything else intergrated. I was looking to replace the rears or should I just replace the fronts as it seems the rears are just fillers. I don't know what an amp is unless we are talking about the same ones used for subs. How to I intagrate am amp to my new speakers and stock headunit.
 
#19 ·
I just talked to Crutchfield.com tech for the last 20 minutes and they told me ohms change from front to rear because of the wire distance. That the 4.1 ohm civic speakers read 4.5 in the front and 6 ohms in the rears making the rear have less power. So they advised an Infinity Reference or Kappa with 2 ohms for the rear to equal 4 ohms after the wiring distance changes the ohms load. That can only be measured at the factory harness at the back of the radio to get a true ohm load for each speaker. Measuring from the rear will just give you 4.1.
 
#20 ·
When I was in that position, I first added front and back speakers, ehh better quality sound but still not what I wanted. I then amped the speakers. Better volume and sound but still lacking,I then added a powered 10 inch bazooka tube, now much better but still not excited.then added audio control lcq-1 processor/eq. Now we are talking, finally some real quality sound! Problem is I wanted more Bass so I sold the bazooka and bought 2 tens with a alpine mono amp, bass now was better. And was happy finally. When I started my 2 week modding spree getting everything done i wanted to the car with some money I came into, I decided to get an alpine nav deck and add another alpine mono amp to run each ten by its self at 4 ohms.and I'm finally 100 percent happy.my advise for you is decide what it is you want wind wise(alot if bass? Sound stage? Clearity? Power? If its sound and equality I highly recommend the lcq-1 and amp, it really works perfect with he stock head.if your looking for it all, you may have to bite the bullet like I did and spend some money and go all new. I'm a perfectionist so I went the expensive route, just them it all out. My 2 cents


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#24 ·
When I was in that position, I first added front and back speakers, ehh better quality sound but still not what I wanted. I then amped the speakers. Better volume and sound but still lacking,I then added a powered 10 inch bazooka tube, now much better but still not excited.then added audio control lcq-1 processor/eq. Now we are talking, finally some real quality sound! Problem is I wanted more Bass so I sold the bazooka and bought 2 tens with a alpine mono amp, bass now was better. And was happy finally. When I started my 2 week modding spree getting everything done i wanted to the car with some money I came into, I decided to get an alpine nav deck and add another alpine mono amp to run each ten by its self at 4 ohms.and I'm finally 100 percent happy.my advise for you is decide what it is you want wind wise(alot if bass? Sound stage? Clearity? Power? If its sound and equality I highly recommend the lcq-1 and amp, it really works perfect with he stock head.if your looking for it all, you may have to bite the bullet like I did and spend some money and go all new. I'm a perfectionist so I went the expensive route, just them it all out. My 2 cents


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You DA MAN!!! dude, this is exactly what i am doing to my 2012 Honda Civic EXL. Hate the inside speakers. I installed sub (500rms) i changed the front speakers to component set with crossover (Infinity Reference 6030CS) I amped it to Alpine MRP-F300 now i am installing the audio control to get the best possible result.
 
#21 ·
That sounds a little extreme when some are just asking for a bit of clarity and quality sound.. A simple cost effective solution would be to add a set of tweeters to the rear that would have bass blockers inline to the tweeter. If you wired in parallel the 4.1ohm civic rear driver with a 4 ohm tweeter.. So + to + and - to - that would drop the ohm load in half to 2 ohms.. at the terminal but seeing 4 ohms at the back of the stereo.. So adding a set of nice tweeters might be the cheap fix for all but why do that when you could add a set of Infinity Reference drivers with tweets for 54.00 off amazon.
 
#25 ·
^ the lcq-1 will bring it all together.i just had some money to blow, so I got what I really wanted but thought I would never have the money to buy, you will like how it makes stock head sound.


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#28 ·
I mean if your comparing them to like some Walmart Sony's then yeah there beast but for audiophiles coaxials are a no no and do suck when it comes to natural sound imaging.you can do some quick searches if you wish.
I know damn well my cdt 3 way components sound far superior than anything infinity or any company for that matter can shell out in a coaxial.


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#30 ·
that seems like a bit much for just wanting to update the speakers and getting some stellar quality normal listening volume speakers.. Just keep in mind your talking to someone that use to have 2 15s, 4 12s, and 6 10s, all JL Audio powered by Rockford amps.. and that was 20yrs ago and I popped out and shattered my rear window of my CRX si twice.. So for me car audio extreme has faded out.. No point.. I half way deaf because of it. Chicks dont even dig it and if your out to impress your boys then your barking up the wrong tree if you know what I mean.. :p
 
#32 ·
Haaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaa rotflmao

You blew your crx window too?lol

I had 2 fosgate punch svc 15s with a fosgate power 800@2 and 4 Polk audio 5.25 coaxials with a fosgate power 800@4 and an ol school eclipse cd deck.
I blew the hatch glass twice.

But I get what you mean.

however I enjoy beign able to hear the strings get plucked or the snare have a nice tssts and the Tom have a nice thunk.
I'm not a bass head anymore.
Its dangerous too high spl levels.
So I enjoy good imaging.
you say that's too much?yeah I suppose.BUT one short trip in my suburban and you would be hard pressed to be able to go back to a coaxial ever again.
but I'm süre you understand the concept of what I mean by clarity and what not.


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#31 ·
I just like quality loud audio. It's not as popular agreed, but unlike 20 years ago like alot of my friends,I don't drive around listening to music I can't stand just to hear " the bass". At a time in my life that I can buy the things I want without sacrifice, I'm happy I did, I use it all the time.


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#33 · (Edited)
I bought a 2013 Civic LX and am disappointed with the rear speakers. The front two sound Much louder than the rear two speakers when faded in the middle. They also put out very little bass compared to the front.


I had some Alpine sps 610s installed by car toys in the rear this week that sounded MUCH worse than the already crappy stock. Less loudness and even less bass. I know they should be properly amped but was expecting some improvement.


The car toys guy said today that it must be a Honda crossover in the stock system limiting the rear deck to get sound and bass. Is this true? I understand stock speakers are less than stellar but the aftermarket sounded even worse in the rear. I put the stock speakers back in. Thoughts??

The front speakers are so much louder than the rears. Anyone else notice this? Is honda really crossing over the rears to sound so bad?

I was considering putting in new speakers all around with an amp. The car toys guy said the stock head unit would still limit the volume and bass in the rear with a new external amp. True or false??

I am not willing to add a new head unit or sub. I know that the two fronts sound more brassy than aftermarket because of the way they design it. BUT if I have speakers in the back producing some punch, it may make up a bit for the loss in the front.

Has anyone amped and only new speakers and noticed they could bypass the honda crossover ??

Thanks!!
I have a Civic 2015 and noticed the same detail about the rear speakers.... It is definitely the head unit sending less power to rear speakers, I assume that might be to not bother rear passengers with loud sound behind their heads or something like that...
I will replace front speakers for something better (Pioneer 3-way speakers) and leave the rear speakers as they are, as I am the driver and I want the good sound close to me, not to the few passengers I may have every now and then on the rear seats hahaha!.. As a matter of fact, replacing rear speakers is a total process (remove seats and pillars covers and the plastic cover that has the speakers mesh grill), so I won't bother myself replacing them.
 
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