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Good evening folks,
I'm looking at installing a sub with a hifonics BXX1200.1D amp in my '15 Civic, now I've read about the ELD and how it works.....What is the best bypass for it? I've read that having a fuse tap off one of the power windows to signal the amp/LOC remote on bypass it?
 

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For my 2012 Civic Si, I tried to bypass that ELD for my 1,800 watt system. My Car stereo’s rear auxiliary Shuriken battery was ruined because of not receiving much of a regular charge despite even using a 300 AMP Ohio Generator High Amp Alternator & wired for the big three, you name it, did it all. I cannot believe how much time & energy I put into trying to figure this out for my car. I believe all the Honda cars up to 2011 you can do the In-line resistor with a bypass switch but that will not work on a 2012 and probably any newer models either. You can physically wire bypass the ELD however, you will get a Christmas light show of warning lights which become very tiresome to look at. Also, constantly having to hit the menu button on the i-MID display to get rid of the battery warning too, boy does that get old. The Dealership was no help, don’t waste your time. So what to do? Ok, here’s what I did, I purchased a FlashPro from Hondata at Procivic.com. The Race version (ONLY) which will allow you to turn off the ELD through the car’s CPU. The alternator will act in everyway just like they use to before the Government mandated that the car manufactures UP the GPM which has, by itself caused a host of additional problems with failing batteries, stranded cars, tows, ect. The RACE version is not cheap, but it works fabulously. I did add a Skunk 2 Air Intake only at the time and after the selected tune with the FlashPro it allowed the car to run much better with no alternator issues at all, problem solved. I want to say, the only reason I purchased the Hondata FlashPro was just to turn off my ELD, which allowed the Honda’s charging system not to be limited. Good luck.
 

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Just have a question, as I have never installed a high-power amp in this car and currently do not intend to. But with the ELD, I have noticed that on my 2015 LX Coupe, the voltage always goes to about 13.5-14.0V whenever I turn on the headlights. So, could someone just install the amp/subwoofer like normal, then turn on the headlights any time they want to use it and get full power? Again, just asking. Perhaps there are some other issues that would not be addressed by this solution, and perhaps there are situations where the voltage would not go up with the headlights turned on. In any case, it would seem to be a good idea to install a voltmeter with such a system so that you could keep an eye on the performance of the electrical system.
 

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I know there are several conditions that need to take place in order to get the ELD to run in the high charging mode. One is running the headlights on all the time, some say window roll down/up kicks it up, driving over 50 mph & running the AC too. These tricks might work to maintain a high charge to your main battery. Maybe you just need to run dual batteries with a relay, that's easy. I also have a 2017 Honda Accord EXL Hybrid with a 1,200 watt stereo system. No modified charging system, just an auxiliary Shuriken battery in the rear with a relay. I have had no issues with the factory alternator charging with this amount of wattage. I don't do anything special to force the alternator into the high charging mode either and I have been running my stereo system in this car for three years with zero issues.
 
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