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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I need some help as of last night, I was driving in Huntington Beach. As I was driving my car started to shake and jolt when I would release the clutch in 1st and push the gas and it would start to shake until I get up to more speed and then I would change gears to 2nd and again it would shake for a few Moments and then it be fine when going to all other gears, so I took it to my mechanic who just changed out the clutch a few moths ago the car was driving perfect up until last night after inspecting the car I saw that my air intake had become loose and came off the throttle body so I at first I thought maybe it was that was making it shake but after putting back on it was doing it still now it's still doing it in 1st and 2nd gear only when I change the gears and after I get up to speed it stops shaking but it revs high even after changing the gears to 3rd, 4th, 5th I have to let go of the gas pedal to let the revs drop and it'll stop trying to rev so high i thought it was it was the air intake cause of air getting into the throttle when it came off but it wasn't that after showing my mechanic he told me that I chaffed the pressure plate and for me to drive it and burn it off but I don't want anything to really break does anyone have any idea what's the issue, I have no engine lights or anything coming on. Please help me out I'll post a video so you know what I mean. In the meantime please help

Video of issue
 

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One possibility is that when your intake box came off, the engine was breathing too easily, and the MAF sensor on the filter box was reading almost zero airflow, which confused the computer.

Do you have any error messages pop up on the iMID display? If so, it will take 3 restarts to reset it. If not, still, restart the car and drive at least 3 times for the computer to normalize.

You can alternatively disconnect the battery for an hour; however, you will need to reset your stereo system and all. Don't do it unless you're comfortable to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One possibility is that when your intake box came off, the engine was breathing too easily, and the MAF sensor on the filter box was reading almost zero airflow, which confused the computer.

Do you have any error messages pop up on the iMID display? If so, it will take 3 restarts to reset it. If not, still, restart the car and drive at least 3 times for the computer to normalize.

You can alternatively disconnect the battery for an hour; however, you will need to reset your stereo system and all. Don't do it unless you're comfortable to do so.
Hello Onlyhuman, well too answer your question the only MID light coming on is my TPMS which I don't think has anything to do with what's going on, but after all this happened my clutch finally took a shit so now the car won't drive it goes into gear fine there's no noise no grinding now theres just no acceleration when I put the car in gear nothing happens it won't drive now, it just went out while I was driving it, the only thing I can think of is I had clutch chatter and something gave out, so now I have to open up the Trans again and take a look at the clutch, I don't know what caused this or why it started doing this but this really f** sucks, I mean I thought my clutch issue were behind me for at least another 50, 000 to 100,000 miles but it seems that was just a wish upon a star. I really don't like this I've never had this problem but it seems the 9th gen civic si are not clutch friendly. I really hate this and I hate being with out my car, I can't make no money and I have to scrounge about just to get this fixed again. If anyone out there can help me find a cheap mechanic and a cheap but great clutch please don't hesitate to let me know. I could really use the help. Thks
 
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