So I installed the driver side innovative motor mount yesterday and after the install I went to start my car and it would not start. Upon disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake for 10 seconds to reset everything the car sometimes wI'll start but very shortly after I get the keyless entry system light on the dashboard and the car will not turn off. It drove absolutely fine so I don't think it is the ecu, what is odd is that when I pulled into my driveway the car would not turn off. I had to stall the motor to get it to turn off and disconnect the battery to get the power to the car to turn off. When I reconnected the battery it recognizes my keys when it comes to unlocking and locking the car but will not get power to the car and the engine will not start. I have headlights, dome lights, and brakes, just not power to the dash and the car won't start.
2015 si not starting
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Try a hard pcm reset. Take both battery cables off of the battery. then touch them together for 20 seconds.and then put them back on, hot first, then ground.( actual honda procedure) If you still have an issue take it to the dealer and just tell them your battery died and now you have this problem.
Just got off the phone with the dealership and they're saying that my ground wire locations on the driver side and passenger side caused a short in the ignition control system. Drivers side went body to transmission where it used to go body to mount. Passenger side was body to body. I was under the impression a ground wire can't cause a short. Also I had been driving for 2 week with no issues with the passenger side being grounded the way it was. There were no blown fuses when I checked the fuse box, though I did not check the large 100 amp ones. This sounds fishy and like they don't know what is going on.
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A faulty ground cannot in and of itself cause a short.
However, when an intended ground path is interrupted and, if there is another path to ground available else where in the circuit.
The electricity will attempt to go through that path.
If that "path" does not have enough current capacity.
The under capacity "path", be it a wire or electrical trace on a circuit board, can over heat.
Causing the wire to melt and the magic smoke to escape.
However, when an intended ground path is interrupted and, if there is another path to ground available else where in the circuit.
The electricity will attempt to go through that path.
If that "path" does not have enough current capacity.
The under capacity "path", be it a wire or electrical trace on a circuit board, can over heat.
Causing the wire to melt and the magic smoke to escape.
Okay, I guess my next question is shouldn't the ignition system have blown a fuse before it overheated and was damaged?
Also the motor mounts are stiffer than the stock ones, not that it was a necessary part, but I do take my car to the drag strip and having a full mount kit would eliminate the wheel hop. Also just under acceleration the car feels "more put together". Like I said this didn't need to be done.
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3,263 Posts
The fuse can only protect the wiring from a short to ground.
Without the internal schematic of the control unit, I cannot further explain what happened.
Ask the dealer to explain how the current ground configuration caused the problem.
Understood.
Thank you man, you've been a great help in me understanding what is happening.
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Did u fix it
This exact same problem just happened to me. Original owner of my 2014 SI didn't torque down the rear motor mount bolts after he put a Hasport in(caused a myriad of problems, broken off exhaust studs, serpentine belt got chunked out, etc.), which lead to my replacing all mounts with Innovative, just to be safe. After getting the mounts back in, the starter just clicked, and the system would not turn back off after trying to start unless I disconnected the battery. I checked fuses and all electrical systems I could touch, no visible problems, other than that the ground wire on the passenger side was now going body to body rather than body to mount, and the driver's side ground wire was going body to transmission, I replaced the starter (God help me I'm not going back through that to put the old one back on even though it's probably good), did the same clicking at first, then I heard a decently loud electrical short sound, continuous until I disconnected the battery, now no power to systems at all, the only light on is the security light on the head unit. I will update as the saga continues. Haven't even gotten to drive the car 100 miles yet thanks to the last idiot, combined with my own stupidity in not reconnecting the ground wires in a proper way.
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Was this ever resolved have same issue
I am currently still waiting for the dealership to finish their repairs. The push start ignition switch was burned out, they replaced it and still no start. They currently have a keyless sensor on order. It's pretty mind boggling that nobody on the internet has documentation on this so I'm doing my best to get Innovative to add this to their documentation. The dealership said my custom ground solution was solid, so when I get the car back I'll update this thread with photos and a full summary lol.
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Appreciate it hopefully get a response, tried contacting ha sport to see if they had any knowledge and they said they never heard of the issue
Half kits for Hasport reuse the OEM torque mounts that have the original ground mounting locations on them. The full FG4STK kit will need custom grounds run. It really is crazy, these cars and motor mount upgrades are not uncommon at all.
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My situation is kinda weird, cars runs if you disconnect and reconnect battery but will but shut off after, the push start seems to be stuck in run position, once you push clutch it starts automatically. Button has no response to pushing it and power in car stays on unless battery is disconnected
If I'd taken a photo of the custom grounds I ran I would put it in here. I'll try to find a good walkthrough for you. I would disconnect the battery until you have custom grounds set up as it could short out at any time. Mine took like 15+ start attempts before it completely shorted out.
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I work at the dealership so I see the prices ik wym, had to reset my Honda account so I can get back and see if there’s any info from other techs, I’m thinking it has to be a issue with either a ground or a relay stuck since there’s constant power going to the ignition which is also why it won’t shut off.
You could check the top right relay in your footwell fuse box and the other starter/ignition relays. Otherwise it's possible the lack of grounding on your block/ignition system from replacing the mounts has burned out a ground somewhere else.
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Where are the ignition system grounds? Motor has 3 grounds atm ecu currently has one(bracket is the ground)
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