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Discussion Starter #1
Im having trouble getting my 2010 civic si to start. Yesterday it cranked up fine and then I got home at around 5pm yesterday. I come out to start it and its trying to crank and the battery is nice and charged. I push it down my driveway and try to pop start in 2nd gear at 8mph and it all does is slow down like its hitting the brakes. The security key light is not on so its not preventing me from starting the car. I tried to jump it with my wifes car and no luck. The starter doesn't die down slowly when you try to start it either. It just sits there and tries to start the engine but it wont start. Im at a loss here guys. A hose that went into my oil pump for my turbo(don't know if its the oil line or what because I didn't install it and it has two different hoses on the front, one blue and one black) was out but I don't see how that would stop my car from starting. I didn't blow my engine or turbo or anything cause everything was working perfect until this morning. And even if my turbo would of blown it should still start.
 

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Sounds like its cranking but no fuel is being sent into the cylinder, I would verify you have spark by taking out a spark plug and cranking. If you have spark it can't be electronic and may just be a fuel pump. You have gas in the tank right? :p
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes there is fuel in the tank. I changed the plugs a month ago so they shouldn't be bad. I'm pretty sure it's fuel cause isn't the rpm supposed to shoot up to 3k or something when you crank it and turns over? Mine just blips up to 1k rpm when i try to crank it.
 

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Check two things before anything else - the spark, as Chambers suggested, and fuel delivery, somewhere after the fuel pump.

If there is spark and fuel, then you'll have to look elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Alright after spending 3 hours doing everything. I finally said **** it. I tried to crank it one more time and low and behold it starts. For some reason I didn't notice that fuel pump wasn't turning on when I turn the key to on, I guess because my test light showed the fuel pump fuses all were fine and the sending unit to the tank is fine. I cranked it up 4 more times and on the 5th it didn't crank and fuel pump wasn't coming on. However when the fuel pump decides to work and lets me crank the car I have no fuel issues. I drove for 15 miles flooring it non stop trying to overwork the pump(if you can do that) and nothing happens, just working normal. I don't understand, I thought the fuel pump shows symptoms of going out besides just not working at all. Don't they run like shit when fuel gets low if its going bad? I let my gas get down to 0 bars doing that 15 mile drive.
 

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Gas in the tank usually cools a working fuel pump. Heat is the primary killer of fuel pumps.
It sounds like you have an intermittent issue. Check your grounds, battery terminals, and keep an eye on that fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So my car started acting up yesterday and today doing this fuel pump issue. For some reason when I move the wire that is connected to the fuel pump on the outside to the left it a little and tighten it up, the fuel pump will start working. I guess the wire has to be bad.
 

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Bad electrical connections will cause a myriad of problems. Reconnect the wire with a fresh end at the source of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Alright, the car was working fine after this and then it acted up again. I pulled the whole assembly out and found the connector from the fuel pump to the assembly was melted. I ghetto rigged it to make sure this was the one and only problem. Low and behold, the fuel pump sounds 2x as loud as it used to be. The connection is definitely strong now. My question is, do I have to buy a whole new fuel pump or can you buy the harness or whatever honda calls it that connects the pump to the connector at the top of the assembly?
 

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What would have caused that connector to melt?? Is the wire gauge super thin or something? Is your fuse to the fuel pump of the correct amperage rating? Sounds like the pump is pulling too much current which a correct fuse should have stopped by blowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am trying to figure it out. Today was the very first time it's ever cut fuel while driving. It's always acted up at idle or when you go to start the car. The connector is very, very melted so I highly doubt this all happened when the one time it cut power today.
 

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i would presume a fuel pump has a relay somewhere. check the relay.

on a related note...i spent over a YEAR diagnosing and replacing parts on my '03 Sonoma. i'd be driving down the road...and it would die...sometimes it would start right back up...other times, i had to use AAA and get it towed. replaced the chipped key, fuel pump, relay....and never could get it to replicate at the local mechanic shop. it developed a coolant leak...so i took it back to dealer to have them take a look at it. after a full day of checking it, they came back and said i had multiple coolant leaks..as well as oil leaks. they wanted $3,400 to repair the leaks. oh, it had a broken left motor mount and the kicker....

'has this truck been sporatically dying on you while running?'. i asked why do you ask that because it has done that for over a year - if you check my records, it's been in here for that, but couldn't find root of issue.

service writer - well, you have a bad fuse block - the fuse is losing contact with the block and causing the fuel pump to go into shut down mode. replace the fuse block is $800. service tech took a piece of cardboard and stuck it between the fuse and the one neighboring it...been running like a champ ever since...$800...ha, a trash piece of cardboard fixed it!

btw..the extended warranty my dad had purchased covered the repair for the leaks and motor mount. cost me $100 for almost $5,000 worth of repair. every gasket and seal has been replaced in that engine now!

but...point of story...check the relay and see what kind of amperage is flowing. it could be stuck open and not regulating the voltage flowing.
 

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Also just make sure you're really not getting too much current. If you jerry rig a solution and it's doing that, you're just going to wind up with a melted connector or worse all over again. Fuel plus electrical gremlins could add up to bad news.
 
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