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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I was asked for a DIY on how to do a modified factory intake for better throttle response and fuel mileage and power and those of you that want to hear vtec and a better engine sound.

Cost$ about 30 to 50 buxx depends on what you already have

Tools a 10 mm socket
Ratchet with about 8 inch extension
A Phillips
And about 30 minutes of your life

Optional......
Go to Honda and buy the bottom intake receiver box ill include a pic with stock number I say buy it because I didn't want to ruin my original and its only 25 bucks at Honda here in central California
So on to it.....

Loosen the 2 6pt/Phillips bolts on intake tubing
Remove intake tubing gently and lift slightly only enough to remove top lid with filter you don't need to unclip Any of the plugs or tubes associated with it
Once out look right behind the battery and down a bit you'll see the only bolt holding the intake bottom receiver loosen it and CAREFULLY with both hands grab the back side of the intake receiver closest to the firewall and lift up. its seated in polygrommets.hold tightly as its a tight fit and if your hands slip well there goes a knuckle or two maybe a cut
Once out either A use that to cut or B set aside and of you purchased the spare it should of been cut prior to removal of old unit making everything easier

So once out you want to cut the portion of the receiver that's recessed in pictures show side by side
Take a hacksaw or rotozip
Or angle grinder whatever you have available to cut and do so as shown in pix and there it is
Reinstall and enjoy



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Discussion Starter #3
Its really easy and there's a bunch of type-os but its still fairly readable its worth it and much cheaper than any aftermarket intake take it to a dyno you'll see.I know ill get bagged on by companies or others that already purchased an intake but I have enough cars and experience to know it won't harm anything.and looks sleeper

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Discussion Starter #5
Nope I left the resonator box in for when I have to take it to the dealer so its about a 10 minute reinstall to go back to stock which is why I recommend purchasing a new one to hack up for those under warranty or those with extended warranty and with it how o installed it it works like a charm and if the intake is too loud for some looking only for the mpg aspect and looking to keep the engine fairly quiet you can leave the resonater tubing hooked up to the fender box and still gain from this as the breathing is beign done on the bottom of the lower receiver and not the resonater like it is stock

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I'm not getting a good visual as to what is going on here. Is that gaping hole in the box before the filter on the intake side (I hope so)? Also, as opposed to that ragged gaping hole, wouldn't a series of 15 or 20 drilled holes, maybe between 3/4" and 1" in diameter, achieve the same results?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The raggedy hole was because I used a rotozip and it cuts through plasticfaster than butter I didn't have any jigsaw blades so instead of driving 25 minutes to home depot or the closest tool store around I used my rotozip with a bit designed to cut mdf or tile or steel so no the holes wouldn't work so well but go ahead an try it cutting the bottom out is far faster took less than a minute,drilling holes a lot longer than a minute.so each to their own i could care less what the bottom looked like as you can't see it installed.the holes won't do it justice as the engine is going to try and breathe through the easiestest path that beign the resonater intake side with the large 3 inch pipe if you were to drill holes I'd leave it alone for that matter.

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This sounds like a great idea - sort of an inexpensive alternative to a cone filter. But I'll have to dig into my stock airbox and see the route the air takes before I am comfortable cutting or drilling anything.

The way I see it, any opening up of the airflow just before the filter is similar to an open cone filter, such as a K&N. As it happens, I have a K&N drop-in now, so I am excited about this mod. Thanks for posting it. If I do anything differently, I'll show it here. Options are a good thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You'd benefit a tad more as you have a k&n BTW its the lower filter receiver sitting atop the tranny where your filter itself sits on so no harm unless you drove into a 4 foot deep puddle of water but then again your stock box would suck up a 4 foot puddle anyways

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Discussion Starter #10
And you can't do a simple bolt on cone as you know there's a sensor sitting atop your upper filter receiver so that idea wouldn't work so for those under warranty this is as far as I would go its your car chance it however you wish but with reported piston problems I'd wait till warranty to be over just my opinion tho

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My car is leased so it's under warranty the whole time I will have it.

And quite honestly, I don't want to hole a piston whether the car is under warranty or not. This has to be a safe enough mod that I will not destroy anything. Will the Civics' EFI adjust at all for the increased air volume?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Disconnect your battery then when you fire it up let it idle for a few minutes without revving it

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And that will do what?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The computer will reset itself or just take out the ecu fuse and let it sit for a minute

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Okay, that's great! Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No one has a problem putting in a SRI that usually made of aluminum will soak up heat thus rising IAT.stock unit made of polymer resulting in virtually no heat gain over stock.and if you look how its been installed the air its breathing in comes straight under the car as the SI has no drip tray.mileage has sure gone up and TR does feel a tad better.

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I'm not saying I think SRIs are necessarily a great option either. People that buy SRIs buy them for looks and convince themselves there's some performance benefit. I would concede to this option being better than a SRI.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I'm not saying I think SRIs are necessarily a great option either. People that buy SRIs buy them for looks and convince themselves there's some performance benefit. I would concede to this option being better than a SRI.
The point of this was when I wrote it as I commute there's a mpg gain to be had without gaining heat and hurting the wallet and convenience of stock replacement in under 5 minutes.as well as I have a maintenance plan that replaces my air filter as many times needed till
40k and I've been reading threads people wanted engine sound and vtec engagement so I figured hell why not I got the part hookup and it was only worth a few dollars after 6200 miles of testing on the freeway it works I did mention I had a certain brand of intake that actually didn't do squat but look pretty.so this alternative works 100% better for the Money stick a k&n drop in or if aem comes out with a drop in that should help too.

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm not saying I think SRIs are necessarily a great option either. People that buy SRIs buy them for looks and convince themselves there's some performance benefit. I would concede to this option being better than a SRI.
As well this is generally for those looking to go the simple I/h/e route without going into any tuning or anything else just simple not looking to break any quarter mile times or land speed records just a quick simple solution,and a piece of info as our engines are fairly loud living here in California chp can have you pop your hood and regardless of the carb sticker on intakes as some people believe is legal the chp will still cite you and depending on local law they can impose a hefty fine worth more than a pretty shiny intake so not trying to sound rude or anything negative my sole purpose was to help those out looking for a simple solution that may have the same needs or be in a similar situation as me where my SI main purpose is commuting.once I finish rebuilding my hatch then ill go back to using that then break put a can of whoop as on stealth power mods and lowering it and who knows what else.

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