[Desertrat]

2012 Civic Hybrid
Well first really hot day hit 108 deg and the AC took a dump. Was at speed on the freeway when the AC started working intermittently then died 100%.
Has always blown ice cold. Hooked up my gauges and i have Gas in the system, was just checked and pressures on hi and low were good before it died.
I was just checking it as the car is newish to me and it was getting hotter out.

As it is now The clutch isnt engaging on the compressor at all.
Pulled enough off to test the leads for voltage at the compressor coil and found 3 leads.
Red has 0v
green0v
blue 4-6 volts.
Not sure what the blue is and i believe i should get 12v on red when AC calls.
Voltages stay the same AC on or OFF.
Anyone familiar with this car know of wiring diagrams online even. Know what to chase next? Swapped relays on AC with like relays no change, All fuses in the vehicle test good.
Noticed the fan for the condenser/ Radiator also does not kick on when AC is pressed and i believe it should but who knows with this car.
Anyhow thanks for your time long winded post.

Updated.
Can make ac function by jumping relay to the coil although the testing with a meter saw 0 volts. Assuming some incomplete circuit with controls involved.
Either way the Compressor/clutch is functional, i cant locate the low pressure switch to jump/test yet.
The Climate control module in the car wont go into Recirc mode and throws a CODE C1 from the self diagnostics. I cannot find for the life of me what this code is..

 

[satish]

I had same issue with my 2014 Honda civic hybrid.
How you diagnoses :I think you have dis continuity
between two wire in clutch.
AC clutch coil has 4 wires.
Two are on top and out of that top 2 one is power (red color; middle wire from 3 pin connector) and second green color go to earthing.Check continuity between two wire.if You will find ok continuity then clutch is ok and it will engage you can verify by give direct power from battery to
I draw diagram for you.Left side one is from ac connect to clutch.
Right side is to diagnosis you have discontinue between 1&3 pin.

This happen if your ac pulley have so much wobble.and it burn coil's thermal protection.

 

[Desertrat]

I had same issue with my 2014 Honda civic hybrid.
How you diagnoses :I think you have dis continuity
between two wire in clutch.
AC clutch coil has 4 wires.
Two are on top and out of that top 2 one is power (red color; middle wire from 3 pin connector) and second green color go to earthing.Check continuity between two wire.if You will find ok continuity then clutch is ok and it will engage you can verify by give direct power from battery to
I draw diagram for you.Left side one is from ac connect to clutch.
Right side is to diagnosis you have discontinue between 1&3 pin.

This happen if your ac pulley have so much wobble.and it burn coil's thermal protection.
View attachment 491938

Thank you tons for this. I had completely forgot there's a thermal safety. Your directions are spot on for checking it out. Very much appreciated. I have just managed to get the attention of a honda master tech this morning who gave the same directions as you.
I am away from my car for a few days but will update when i get back.
Cant believe i didnt think of thermal protection. I blame the 110 degree asphalt

 

[satish]

I highly suspect pulley wobbling and touching to coil and getting hot & burning thermal protector in the coil.
If that's the case in your car then check gap between new bearing in pulley and collar of compressor body where bearing seat.Check thickness of snap ring. it will worn out so much.
I still figure out how to put new bearing on warn collar.If bearing is not snug fit on collar then this problem will occur again.I think i will end up putting new compressor even though compressor is good.

 

[Desertrat]

As shown in your drawing when jumped with a paperclip my AC recirculate and controls work and no C1 code after checking.

The clutch does work when the relay is jumped so i know it will at least engage, Although may need replaced to avoid future issues.

When i bypass the thermal safety on the compressor the car does not respond like when the paperclip jumper was applied. I still get a C1 with thermal bypassed.
I am just missing the circuit path i assume, It has been 110F outside while doing this so i was not thorough as a should have been.

the paperclip bypass would prove the thermal is bad? The thermal protector shows it is closed and 0 ohm resist so it seems good?

i have the trouble shooting guide from honda and it also points to the Clutch or thermal protector for C1 code, But both seem to be ok in my view although i do not have the values for ohms i should see when checking.

 

[satish]

it look like you have same issue what i had.
Let me explain other way: This hybrid car has 2 thermal protectors in one circuit.One is in clutch and other one is above compressor.
If you check continuity then you will find disconnect in clutch means thermal protector in clutch is bad.that don't means your clutch coil is 100% bad.
Yellow color wires are for clutch thermal protector and red one is for compressor.
So long run: if you change clutch coil then it will work and your car fixed.
Fixing issue today: you can cut those two wire and joint together then your ac will start working.(highlighted in yellow). Clutch coil is expensive around $93 and hard to find. Dealer has.

 

[Desertrat]

Makes sense now. Thank you so much.. Will update again soon

 

[Desertrat]

Checked and found no continuity in the thermal safety unit in the coil. Bypassed that safety and it is working as it should now. Now to disasemble/inspect and get parts on order.
Thank you for your time, Very much appreciated.

 

[satish]

Glad ,able to help you.
Your car ac can run entire summer.
New coil comes with both thermal protector.so no need to worried in case it stop working again.
I strongly suggest that if you plan to change coil (whenever) you can change bearing inside pulley. Bearing size 35×20×50. Amazon around 10$ and autozone 15$.
Whenever you plan to do that post here I will guide you. You dont need to remove freon line.
You do need some Harbor fright tool for that.
Wish you Happy 4th of July.

 

[Desertrat]

I will be doing the repair as soon as the part arrives 2-5 days.
Can you show bearing that will be needed. I see the whole assembly but it is $260.00
help is much appreciated

 

[satish]

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Following video help you how to remove bearing from Pulley.

You will need following tool to perform Job:
SAE & Metric Go-Thru Socket Set, 21 Pc. : to remove compressor's 14 number bolt underneath air intact manifold.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YYMDK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 : to remove snap rings one for pulley and one for coil. HFT snap ring plier will not work so don't waste money on that.
Finally: this video will help you how to remove compressor without disassembling lines.

 

[Desertrat]

got the parts everything's back together looking good so far. Just need to find the spec for the ac clutch gap if anyone knows it. Probably starting me in the face but my brains fried at the moment. Been wrenching on the land rover as well and its still 110 deg. Blah.
Found it.
.4mm-.7mm
.016-.025

 

[Toddjones77]

Hi! I realize this is a few years old at this point but I’m having the exact same issue as described above.
I jumped the car side connection as above and my recirculating did indeed activate. I tried to splice the yellow wire into the black on the compressor side and got no result. Am I using the correct wires?

 

[Toddjones77]

Was able to correct the connection, I had a bad connection on the yellow and black.
Thank you for this awesome thread!

 

[Desertrat]

Was able to correct the connection, I had a bad connection on the yellow and black.
Thank you for this awesome thread!

Glad this helped someone else, I was stumped even with diagrams from a honda tech.
Props to Satish.

 

[yayan.subandhi]

Was able to correct the connection, I had a bad connection on the yellow and black.
Thank you for this awesome thread!

hi Todd, the yellow wire attached from coil to compressor and black wire coming from top side of compressor?

 

[yayan.subandhi]

Glad this helped someone else, I was stumped even with diagrams from a honda tech.
Props to Satish.

hi , the yellow wire attached from coil to compressor and black wire coming from top side of compressor?

 

[Pepe]

it look like you have same issue what i had.
Let me explain other way: This hybrid car has 2 thermal protectors in one circuit.One is in clutch and other one is above compressor.
If you check continuity then you will find disconnect in clutch means thermal protector in clutch is bad.that don't means your clutch coil is 100% bad.
Yellow color wires are for clutch thermal protector and red one is for compressor.
So long run: if you change clutch coil then it will work and your car fixed.
Fixing issue today: you can cut those two wire and joint together then your ac will start working.(highlighted in yellow). Clutch coil is expensive around $93 and hard to find. Dealer has.

View attachment 491988

Hi there. Do you know part number for the clutch coil? I have the same issue but Im from Mexico and parts are hard to find in here. Thanks

 

[Desertrat]

Link not working. Just a minute

Honda 38924-RW0-A01
Prices vary alot. I found it at Hondapartsnow.com

 

[Alec13]

got the parts everything's back together looking good so far. Just need to find the spec for the ac clutch gap if anyone knows it. Probably starting me in the face but my brains fried at the moment. Been wrenching on the land rover as well and its still 110 deg. Blah. Found it. .4mm-.7mm .016-.025

what bearing size did you end up getting? there are two links with two different dimensions. 35mm x 50mm x 20mm and 35mm x 52mm x 20mm.