9th Gen Civic Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recently installed my aftermarket subs into my 2012 Civic LX the other day with some friends and we noticed that the subs aren't hitting as hard as they used to in my old car, which was a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix. I used to have a Kicker audio system hooked up on my old car minus the alpine head unit. It used to bump like crazy in my old car but now not so much. Right now, I've got two 12" Kicker CVR122s hooked up to a Hifonics HFI1000.1D with a LOC to connect it to my stock head unit. We've got the gain all the way up on the amp and the bass max on the bass control but still it's nowhere as loud. Any ideas on why it's not bumping as it was before?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,243 Posts
So I recently installed my aftermarket subs into my 2012 Civic LX the other day with some friends and we noticed that the subs aren't hitting as hard as they used to in my old car, which was a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix. I used to have a Kicker audio system hooked up on my old car minus the alpine head unit. It used to bump like crazy in my old car but now not so much. Right now, I've got two 12" Kicker CVR122s hooked up to a Hifonics HFI1000.1D with a LOC to connect it to my stock head unit. We've got the gain all the way up on the amp and the bass max on the bass control but still it's nowhere as loud. Any ideas on why it's not bumping as it was before?
Cheap LOC and the lx voltage output is low.as well as maybe you didn't bridge the loc.and your just listening to distortion maxed out at all volumes.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cheap LOC and the lx voltage output is low.as well as maybe you didn't bridge the loc.and your just listening to distortion maxed out at all volumes.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I don't think I got a cheap LOC unless PAC is cheap and Cartoys is just over charging for their products, which I don't doubt they do. In that case I could have gotten a cheap one but my friend said it worked great in a 2006 Honda Accord so I don't think that's why. What do you mean by bridging the LOC? Do you mean like grounding the LOC or connecting them to both rear speakers? We've got it hooked up to both speakers and we didn't ground the LOC.

I had this problem before, turn out cheap loc. buy PAC loc..
I've got a PAC LOC that I bought from Cartoys because they were pretty much the only place open late enough for me to pick one up. So if I need to get a PAC LOC I've already gotten one. Could it be that I got a bad one out of the box?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,243 Posts
I don't think I got a cheap LOC unless PAC is cheap and Cartoys is just over charging for their products, which I don't doubt they do. In that case I could have gotten a cheap one but my friend said it worked great in a 2006 Honda Accord so I don't think that's why. What do you mean by bridging the LOC? Do you mean like grounding the LOC or connecting them to both rear speakers? We've got it hooked up to both speakers and we didn't ground the LOC.



I've got a PAC LOC that I bought from Cartoys because they were pretty much the only place open late enough for me to pick one up. So if I need to get a PAC LOC I've already gotten one. Could it be that I got a bad one out of the box?
No idea who car toys is but A ground the loc with the little black wire hanging.B bridge the loc by running it off just one speaker as in both black and grey positive and black and grey negative to one speaker.
Turn the loc 3/4 up.
If you need more juice you need a line driver turn the amp down on the gain you'll fry the subs with distortion.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
You mentioned that you ran the same set up in your old car but with an aftermarket (Alpine) head unit, right? Well, if you now running everything with the head unit, that is the issue. An aftermarket head unit's signal will always be much stronger and output cleaner sound. This is likely your missing link.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Check your phasing. If the wires to one of the drivers are reversed, one cone will be going in as the other one is going out. Result is crappy bass.

Chip H.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Honda programmed the stock head unit, so that as you increase the volume, the amp will decrease the bass. They do this so consumers wont overdrive thier speakers. Audiocontrol has a line of LOC's that can correct this...think its called acu bass technology
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,243 Posts
Honda programmed the stock head unit, so that as you increase the volume, the amp will decrease the bass. They do this so consumers wont overdrive thier speakers. Audiocontrol has a line of LOC's that can correct this...think its called acu bass technology
I don't see that happening on the RTA.its just a low voltage signal that won't produce great sound out of the stock deck

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So we grounded the loc and adjusted the levels on my amp, it's hitting a lot better than before. It's not quite like it was before in my grand prix and that's probably because the civic possesses a different car acoustics than my grand prix. In my old car the trunk was a lot bigger and I was able to have the box all the way towards the back where it was basically inside the car but in my civic I can't do that. I was thinking that a lot of the sound is going outside instead of inside the car and that maybe I could look into investing in some dynamat or some alternative. Anyone have any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,243 Posts
So we grounded the loc and adjusted the levels on my amp, it's hitting a lot better than before. It's not quite like it was before in my grand prix and that's probably because the civic possesses a different car acoustics than my grand prix. In my old car the trunk was a lot bigger and I was able to have the box all the way towards the back where it was basically inside the car but in my civic I can't do that. I was thinking that a lot of the sound is going outside instead of inside the car and that maybe I could look into investing in some dynamat or some alternative. Anyone have any suggestions?
Yeah no that's not the case.problem is you had an aftermarket deck feeding higher voltage giving you a stronger signal.now your at the mercy of the loc and stock underpowered speaker. the solution is a line driver easy as that.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah no that's not the case.problem is you had an aftermarket deck feeding higher voltage giving you a stronger signal.now your at the mercy of the loc and stock underpowered speaker. the solution is a line driver easy as that.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Would that still be the case if it seems like it's louder from the outside than it is inside? I'll check out the line driver though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,243 Posts
Would that still be the case if it seems like it's louder from the outside than it is inside? I'll check out the line driver though.
That's because sound Carries watch try this.
Turn your car on run the stereo and stand in front of your hood center of your car,not that loud.
Now go insidebthe house and listen it'll seem like bass is louder in the house.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
You mentioned that you ran the same set up in your old car but with an aftermarket (Alpine) head unit, right? Well, if you now running everything with the head unit, that is the issue. An aftermarket head unit's signal will always be much stronger and output cleaner sound. This is likely your missing link.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Possibly, but that's all the gain knob is for on an amp. Matching voltages. It definitely is nicer to have a higher voltage coming in so you're gain is lower on the amp, therefore creating a lot less problems (heat, etc). I'm not sure what the output voltage is of these '13 Civics (lx, ex, etc...anyone know?), but if you find an amp that can take a lower voltage then you're still fine for the most part....a good amp I should say.

Check your phasing. If the wires to one of the drivers are reversed, one cone will be going in as the other one is going out. Result is crappy bass.

Chip H.
Another possibility, but remember that these frequencies are LONG. Phasing is definitely an issue, but I'd assume he crosses his subs somewhere around 80hz (with a fairly steep slope) so you're running into 15' or longer waves. 100% agree that looking into phase is a good way to go, but in a vehicle where you're going to get all kinds of cancellations, EQ is your only way to truly get a flat or near flat frequency response OP.

Honda programmed the stock head unit, so that as you increase the volume, the amp will decrease the bass. They do this so consumers wont overdrive thier speakers. Audiocontrol has a line of LOC's that can correct this...think its called acu bass technology
Are you sure it dose this? My girl just picked up a '13 lx yesterday so I haven't had much time to really learn and look into the car. That'd be impressive if they had something like that as many find it very beneficial as it follows our (humans lol) hearing curves. Look up Fletcher-Munson curves if you are lost on that post. Many people implement these type of techniques, with Audyssey being one of them.

So we grounded the loc and adjusted the levels on my amp, it's hitting a lot better than before. It's not quite like it was before in my grand prix and that's probably because the civic possesses a different car acoustics than my grand prix. In my old car the trunk was a lot bigger and I was able to have the box all the way towards the back where it was basically inside the car but in my civic I can't do that. I was thinking that a lot of the sound is going outside instead of inside the car and that maybe I could look into investing in some dynamat or some alternative. Anyone have any suggestions?
You're best bet is to totally bypass the LOC altogether. I've only seen one LOC that doesn't hamper the FR, but it was custom made and still didn't just let the signal pass through but at a higher voltage. Take the signal straight from the HU and that should be a full range signal. If it's really low voltage (.2-.5v-ish) then pick up a nice line driver.

Also, the difference from vehicle to vehicle (your GP to the Civic) will be different as you'll have different reflective properties (talking about the cancellation issues, etc). If you're hearing sound outside the car then try something like MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) and CCF (Closed Cell Foam) from SoundDeadenerShowdown (or the variants of those products from SecondSkin).

Dynamat won't have hardly any effect on the kind of sound dampening that you're talking about. Dynamat, though not nearly as effective as a true panel deadener, will deaden the resonance frequency of a metal panel. Something that is asphalt based like most of your cheap deadeners DO NOT deaden panels effectively. They are mass loaders and you're just throwing money away. If you need any help with anything just shoot me a PM. I'm sure i'll be around as I'm trying to learn a little about her '13 LX
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@ThunderUP That's a lot of information. o.0 I appreciate all the information though. I'm thinking that I'm going to just invest in an aftermarket touchscreen head unit instead of getting a line driver. That was my original intention when I wanted to install my subs but I don't have the money to spend on a new head unit just yet. The LOC will just be a temporary hookup until I get my aftermarket unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Another possibility, but remember that these frequencies are LONG. Phasing is definitely an issue, but I'd assume he crosses his subs somewhere around 80hz (with a fairly steep slope) so you're running into 15' or longer waves. 100% agree that looking into phase is a good way to go, but in a vehicle where you're going to get all kinds of cancellations, EQ is your only way to truly get a flat or near flat frequency response OP.
I was actually thinking that both drivers were in the same box, but had their wires brought out separately (so could be bi-amped). They'd then be sharing the same airspace, yet the cones could be moving in opposite directions -- not a good way to get lots of quality bass. :)

Chip H.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Ah...Polarity swap causing phasing issues.

Yeah, another way to mess up a lot. It can help at times in a car though since there are so many reflections. I have my passenger midbass out of polarity because I find it easier to EQ and TA to raise the stage up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well in case anyone was curious I installed a new head unit recently and it's hitting a lot harder now. It definitely was the head unit limiting my subs.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top