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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have recently installed an Audio Control LCQ-1 (line output convertor plus eq) in my 2013 EX sedan with non premium sound system. When it works properly it is great!

Heres the setup:
-speaker level output from stock stereo to Lcq1
-RCA out from LCQ1 to both sub amp(300 w bridged powering a pair of kicker solobaric subs) and 2ch amp (50w x2) for -Front kicker components
-Remote turn on output from LCQ 1 to both amps

LCQ 1 gets both 12v switched and 12v constant from stock radio harness and is grounded to chassis.

Neither amp is especially power hungry(this is not an SPL machine, I just want clear loud music). Each is supplied with 8 ga power and solid ground to chassis.

The problem:
when I turn on the key, I get an EXTREMELY loud garbled noise output from all of the speakers that can only be stopped by pulling the power from the lcq1. After a few seconds I plug the power back on and all is back to normal. Sometimes when I get in the car and turn on the system it turns on just fine. I am on my second LCQ1 from crutchfield so now I am wondering if there is something about my setup, or the car itself that the LCQ 1 just does not like. I have actually ordered a Kicker Front row to see if it will work for me. (I should have it later this week) If I can get the LCQ1 to work reliably, it will be the ideal solution with its LOC capability and great EQ features.

I have considered grabbing power for the LCQ1 directly from the fuse block, but it only draws 350mA so I don't think there is an overload issue with my current setup. I figured that if there was I would have blown a fuse.

Also, I have noticed that the LCQ1 powers on at times when I have not even turned the key such as when I unlock the doors with the remote and when I put the key in the ignition before even turning it on. I have the turn on lead of the LCQ1 connected to the acc lead on the stock stereo harness. So why doesn't the radio power on like the LCQ 1 powers on under these same conditions?


Sorry for the novel. I guess I would just like to see if anyone else has had similar issues with the LCQ1 and if you have had success with it in perhaps a slightly different setup.

Thanks!
 

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Did u check your ground connection?

Btw, what you have now is almost as the good as the kicker piece you ordered.

Next best thing would be a real processor..something like the arc audio ps8, jbl ms8, rockford 3sixty.3, audison bit.1, etc etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did u check your ground connection?

Btw, what you have now is almost as the good as the kicker piece you ordered.

Next best thing would be a real processor..something like the arc audio ps8, jbl ms8, rockford 3sixty.3, audison bit.1, etc etc
I have grounded the LCQ1 to three different locations. I could understand a grounding problem causing some background electrical noise or some hum, but not the erratic ear splitting garbage noise I get probably every other turn on.

I had my eye on the Audison Bit ten, but am not ready to jump up to that price range yet. I really want to get the LCQ1 to work because when it does work it does exactly what I want it to do. I think the a kicker front row would get the job done as well.
 

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My first install of PXE-H650, when using with stock EX 160W speaker level, does exactly the same thing. It would turn on when I press unlock, without the key inserted. Connecting directly to pre-amp of 360W system is even worst. Every time there's a power draw (ie. insert key, unlock door) it would send an electric pulse into the H650-->loud pop at the speaker. So I believe LCQ-1 has autosensing and that the car actually sends a pulse when you unlock door, insert key, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So this gets me to perhaps the most pertinent question: what is the best switched ppwer connection to use for the LCQ1(or other devices for that matter) that will turn on the unit only when the key is turned on and will be free of loud pops and other garbage noise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My first install of PXE-H650, when using with stock EX 160W speaker level, does exactly the same thing. It would turn on when I press unlock, without the key inserted. Connecting directly to pre-amp of 360W system is even worst. Every time there's a power draw (ie. insert key, unlock door) it would send an electric pulse into the H650-->loud pop at the speaker. So I believe LCQ-1 has autosensing and that the car actually sends a pulse when you unlock door, insert key, etc.
BTW, I have defeated the LCQ 1 auto sensing mode, it seemed to be too sensitive at times and not sensitive enough at other times. It actually shut down my amps when the radio switched to handsfree phone mode. The split second that it saw no audio input from the system between radio mode and phone mode must have been enough for it to power down, but not back on so the person on the other end of calls could hear me but i couldnt hear them. I do business on the road so that just wouldnt do. So I am back to using good old switched 12v for now.
 

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I have one and I'm getting a quick loud pop when I turn the car off, otherwise it is money and sounds friggin great but I'm going to take it back to see this problem, any ideas?


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have one and I'm getting a quick loud pop when I turn the car off, otherwise it is money and sounds friggin great but I'm going to take it back to see this problem, any ideas?


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id be fine if what you describe was my only issue. Can you describe your power connections for the LCQ1. I see you have the SI so have you connected the audio before the factory amp or after? Any setup details you can give may help me solve my problem.
 

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id be fine if what you describe was my only issue. Can you describe your power connections for the LCQ1. I see you have the SI so have you connected the audio before the factory amp or after? Any setup details you can give may help me solve my problem.
If I remember correctly he is using it as LOC so he connects behind the factory amp. I have installed an Si radio into EX sedan and I connect it right behind the radio, since I don't have the outboard amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have one and I'm getting a quick loud pop when I turn the car off, otherwise it is money and sounds friggin great but I'm going to take it back to see this problem, any ideas?


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bobshur,
where exactly do you have your power for the LCQ connected?
Specifically
12v constant
12v switched
grground
i just want to compare your setup to what I have tried to see if there is any consistency..

thanks!
 

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I will have to look I'm not sure, I know it's not constant though.


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If you have your amp turned on before you the radio powers up, you will hear a loud pop...the safest way is to connect amp remote to ignition wire so whatever turns on in the chain won't affect the amp (because you turn on car, the radio is on no matter what).


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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
If you have your amp turned on before you the radio powers up, you will hear a loud pop...the safest way is to connect amp remote to ignition wire so whatever turns on in the chain won't affect the amp (because you turn on car, the radio is on no matter what).


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Where would be a good place to connect to the ignition feed? I would like to avoid cutting any factory wiring, so a location on the fuse block would be preferred.

what do you mean by 'the radio is on no matter what'? I guess this car's electrical system works a bit differently that some of the older Hondas I have worked on. Please help me understand how it works. Don't be afraid to get technical if you can or want to; I can handle it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will have to look I'm not sure, I know it's not constant though.


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the manual for the LCQ1 says to connect power similar to how we would an amp. 12v constant, 12v switched, and ground. If you have not connected it like this, I would really like to know how you have it so maybe I can give it a shot.

Thanks!
 

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The main ign wire is the thick red wire on the top of fuse box. Remove the lower sash panel you will see it through the whole that vsa switch wires go through. You can check using multimeter. The shop who does my wiring taps it from there.

Radio off thing...when car is off (dash dark) the radio is absolutely off. When you turn the key to ACC (1st click) the radio would turn on, even you push power off. The car's electrical system somehow sends a pop out when there's an electrical pulse, ie. unlock door, insert key, even when something powers down a minute after you remove the key. Those pulses would trigger the speaker sensing and turn on the amp if you have the amp connected to the equipment. That's why you see the unit turns on without you even insert the key. I don't think the pulse can be eliminated though. This is one of the worst Honda I ever worked with.


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I'll find out Sunday when I get the rest installed,I had a horrible day at the dentist so I'm not even looking in the garage today,I think he said it is run the same as the amp though,whatever that means.He will fix it Sunday.


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think I have this thing figured out...

I got (even more��) frustrated and decided to just try some things. I removed the switched power from the LCQ and found that it was still turning on during events such as unlock, key insert, etc. So I figured I better look under the hood of the LCQ and make sure that I had the speaker input turn on jumper (GTO) in the defeat position. It was, and I was still getting turn on without 12v signal. I unplugged the speaker inputs from the LCQ and no more turn on at all. So at this point I am just thinking WTF? So I said screw it and completely removed the jumper and now the unit is operating at key turn on like it should with no turn on thump, no crazy insane random noise, just pure LOC'd EQ'd music like the damn thing should have two weeks ago out of the box.

I am still going to try the Kicker Front Row when it arrives, but now at least I know it will be a fair comparison between features and SQ and not just about which one i can just get to turn on reliably.

Pretty pathetic to be posting this on a Saturday nite but I am just glad to (hopefully) be able to put this episode in the rear view.

Any other Portlanders at the Timbers game tonite? Nice win over Houston!!
 

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I should not talk to you, I am from Houston...lol...Anyway glad that you figure out. I have other noise though, basically some electrical noise like turning on headlights I will receive a slight pop, and some high pitch noise that would go away--frequency going up and up until I can't hear it (at initial system start up with engine off). Have already eliminated head unit as the source of problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I should not talk to you, I am from Houston...lol...Anyway glad that you figure out. I have other noise though, basically some electrical noise like turning on headlights I will receive a slight pop, and some high pitch noise that would go away--frequency going up and up until I can't hear it (at initial system start up with engine off). Have already eliminated head unit as the source of problem.
I do still have a minor bit of noise, but only noticeable when parked, engine off, and volume below 3. Needless to say, that's not happening much, so I can live with it. Definitely keep us updated on how you solve this; it may come in handy for the rest of us.

Thanks!
 

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These are what I have done but it still has noise...

-find another ground
-change to a bigger ground from chassis to battery
-reroute driver's side speaker wires
-use another amp

There's nothing I do about the head unit will solve the problem. I remove RCA at the amp input and there's still same type of noise. The RCA also is running on the passenger side so it is not the source of problem.


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