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No idea where to get the diagram, but basically you get to wire 3 main wires (+12V, GND, ACC) and 8 speaker wires on the 24-pinharness. All other wires are not meant to be used for aftermarket (some wires that I have no idea on what it is) and the rest (ie. Illumination+, CANBus remote +/-) are on other connectors.
 

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Anyway I think now you can follow this:



Refer to the picture, back row, left to right:
1-White=+12V
2-Light Green=Front Left +
3-Pink=Front Left -
6-Grey=Front Right +
7-Brown/Red=Front Right -
11-Purple=ACC

Refer to the picture, front row, left to right:
13-Black=Ground
14-Yellow=Rear Left +
15-Brown=Rear Left -
18-Blue=Rear Right +
19-Orange=Rear Right -

The green and blue I have no idea. And I have yet to find out where the Illumination wire is. May be taping into hazard switch is the easiest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also has anyone confirmed an Aftermarket Sub that will fit in the factory spot without modifying the trunk spring rod things?
 

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You have a premium radio. I have an EX-L sedan so I do not have premium audio. But it should be the same wires for the 4 channels but probably with different color (like only red and green on all of the line level outs. And you probably have 4 wires with heat shrink tubing between the line level outputs if it uses differential balance). But I believe you can follow the description instead of the color. Otherwise, there is a remote wire going into the factory amp on the pin#8 on the picture (white=#1, black=#13, left to right). If you are to do the wiring, may I ask you to take a picture of the stock plug so I can compare the differences?

Also may I know what you are trying to do so we can discuss it? Thanks.

I have no idea on the output of the amp though. The only thing I know is that it has internal crossover, 7 channel output, and heavy equalization. Other things you have to ask premium audio guys~
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sure I can post some pics when I get started, although I'm still in planning stages so it may be a week or two until I tear into it.

Im going to be replacing the factory speakers fronts and rears (probably adding an amp to power these) and I'm debating wether or not to replace the sub/amp and tweeters (will depend on difficulty to sound improvement ratio)

So if the factory amp is 7 Chanel can I assume is powering all the factory speakers and not just the sub? That would mean the HU isn't powering anything? I think that could simplify thing if I can find the right amp.
 

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The HU doesn't power anything. It's relatively low voltage and the frequency response is flat to within +/-2dB. The best route, of course, is to tap the output from head unit to an aftermarket amplifier. Since I do not have premium system I don't know if it has differential balance output but I think it does from other Honda premium system. If you use the stock amp, you are limited to what that amp offers to you, like the crossover frequency, frequency response on the entire band, and equalization. The stock amp powers your tweeters, door woofers, rear woofers, and sub, for a total of 7 channels.

BTW the subwoofer output on the head unit has on a separate 8-pin harness and I believe it has crossover on top of it. The 4 channels have full range from 20Hz to 20kHz.
 

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One time I forgot to plug that in and it still lit up. The light blue wire, if on the Accord, is called the K-line (coming from MICU). The green line is called SCTY-, also coming from MICU. I know the 8th gen Civic also has a K-line and SCTY-wire on the 17-pin plug. These two wires have exact same colors on the cars mentioned, even the 8th gen Civic uses a different plug. However I am not sure what they are though. Anyway I've heard that a K-line has to do with onboard diagnostics or something like that.

On the Scoshe harness the blue wire is the remote wire for stock amp (no idea why it's there). The 24-pin car only comes with +12V, ground, ACC, and 2 other lines, plus 4 pairs of speaker wires. No other wires are being used. You need to flip the Scosche harness upside down (connector facing away from you) to be able to correctly compare to my picture.
 

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One time I forgot to plug that in and it still lit up. The light blue wire, if on the Accord, is called the K-line (coming from MICU). The green line is called SCTY-, also coming from MICU. I know the 8th gen Civic also has a K-line and SCTY-wire on the 17-pin plug. These two wires have exact same colors on the cars mentioned, even the 8th gen Civic uses a different plug. However I am not sure what they are though. Anyway I've heard that a K-line has to do with onboard diagnostics or something like that.

On the Scoshe harness the blue wire is the remote wire for stock amp (no idea why it's there). The 24-pin car only comes with +12V, ground, ACC, and 2 other lines, plus 4 pairs of speaker wires. No other wires are being used. You need to flip the Scosche harness upside down (connector facing away from you) to be able to correctly compare to my picture.
Good to know!
 

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Anyway I think now you can follow this:



Refer to the picture, back row, left to right:
1-White=+12V
2-Light Green=Front Left +
3-Pink=Front Left -
6-Grey=Front Right +
7-Brown/Red=Front Right -
11-Purple=ACC

Refer to the picture, front row, left to right:
13-Black=Ground
14-Yellow=Rear Left +
15-Brown=Rear Left -
18-Blue=Rear Right +
19-Orange=Rear Right -

The green and blue I have no idea. And I have yet to find out where the Illumination wire is. May be taping into hazard switch is the easiest.
Fragmented brainwaves about radiowaves, without guidance...

The connector above is wired like a non-navi car, without the premium system.

The non-navi non-premium radio has four connectors:
- - The one in the pic for power and speakers.
- - Handfree, B-CAN for the Mid, and the aux jack.
- - The Mid over GA.
- - Antenna

1 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 2
3
15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 4

1 Black > Ground
3 White > Positive
5 Yellow > +Rear Left
6 Brown > -Rear Left
9 Blue > +Rear Right
10 Orange > -Rear Right
13 Light Blue > k-line (does this fight flees and ticks? sorry that is frontline for K9s.)
15 Light Green > +Front Left
16 Pink > -Front Left
19 Gray > +Front Right
20 Brown (Look hard, it is in the pic) > -Front Right
24 Purple > Switched Positive aka Accessory

Since the wiring for the connector in the pic does not contain a specific wire lighting (unless that is k-line), it seems like the illumination feed comes from the one of the two Mid connectors.

Do not rely on this fragmented thoughts post, you should always verify through your own means...
 

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The premim non-navi unit is also 24-pin, using the same connector, with a few extra wires. I think colors are all red(+)/green(-)/grey with heat shrink(Shield) for pre-amp level output? I have replaced a premium head unit in my EX-L SEDAN, wire the 12V, ACC, K-Line, SCTY-, and ground straight from my non-premium harness. I have the +/- wired to JL amp and it works fine, with a pin next to the brown/red wire (the one not seen but is blocked by orange wire) as a remote turn on.

Other connectors are the 20-pin audio sub connector that has to do with iMID, handsfree, AUX; white 14-pin GA-Net+ connector, and 3-pin antenna with power. The premium radio has 8-pin connector, that has +/-/shield and an amp mute that mutes the amp's subwoofer channel with bluetooth.

For illumination, it's either in the 20-pin plug or coming from iMID. It should be a grey wire if it's on the 20-pin.

The picture uploaded is a modified version of 08 Accord connector, looking INTO the radio's male pin. But it works in our car, also works with premium audio unit with slightly different color(same pinout). Pin 17 is a remote out (12V) wire on premium unit. Hope this clears out all confusions.

 

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For illumination, it's either in the 20-pin plug or coming from iMID. It should be a grey wire if it's on the 20-pin.
On the non-navi units the 20-pin connector is brown. It is the "- - Handfree, B-CAN for the Midi, duet, and the aux jack" that I mentioned.

In the near future I am planning to install an aftermarket HU and will not be using anything on the 20 pin connector to control the illumination. Unless someone can provide hard proof that I should.
 

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Well the illumination wire is everywhere. The closest one is on the harzard switch. The line registered 12V when light is ON and 0 when light is off. It's grey wire with 2 silver strips. I checked it with multimeter when I remve the lower dash panel.

Aren't the 20-pin connectors are the same on both navi and non-navi EX and Si models (since they already have bluetooth that will also act as voice control)? Do you have any picture on the non-navi, and Si premium audio harnesses?
 

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different colour code at front speakers?

I replaced the driver's side door speaker today in my LX and was puzzled to find the 2 wires were coloured differently than shown in your pic/diagram - the 2 wires were purple w gray stripes & red w gray stripes - not sure which is +ve and which is -ve. I haven't got to the passenger side yet, but will likely do it tomorrow.
I previously replaced the rear speakers and the colours match what you have.
Anyone know what to make of this?
 

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Guess I'll have to answer this one myself...

The right-front speaker wires follow the same colour code as the head unit harness - ie. grey & brown. However, the left-front wires change from light green & pink at the head unit to red & purple respectively at the speakers. I checked this with a meter. No idea why Honda would do this, but who knows why they do what they do?

Hope this is of help to others about to replace their stock speakers.

btw, it's well worth the effort to replace all 4 speakers - they're the cheapest pieces of plastic I've ever seen - the factory head unit isn't much better.

I'll be putting in my sub sometime before winter.
 
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So... I finally got my sub installed last week

They don't call me speedy for nothing...

The forum here helped immensely with the wire run - getting the patch cord under the rear carpet was a pita though, and the side panel clips are a bit tough to pull, but its done. NO comparison with the sound!!! I can hear music again!! Anyone wondering if a new system (with sub) is worth it - it absolutely is. Perhaps the 160-watt system isn't so bad, but the standard in the LX was painful.

Thanks to all who posted install tips here.
 

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Hey fuma419,
There is very little room to fit an aftermarket sub, but that's ok I wouldn't . It will sound no different, free air sucks. Money better spent elsewhere .


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 

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With regards to wiring an aftermarket amp to the front speakers and tweeters... Channel on Amp ---> run wire to front speaker, leave the stock wiring from front speaker to tweeter?

Or am I completely wrong and confused?
 

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