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Yeah 0 rear camber would be a terrible choice. :) You want -2 or more rear camber. And lots of front camber.... as much as you can stand as a balance to wearing the tires. At least -1.5 if you are serious about STX. I run STF with an 07 Civic (similar car) and run -3 front and rear (or maybe a little more). I run a touch of toe out in front and 0 toe in back with poly bushings. When I ran stock rear lca bushings, I maxed the rear toe out because it needed it.

Run a 24mm progress rear bar for sure. Set the rear shocks to full stiff and fronts to half-way up. That's a good place to start... might want to go stiffer in front, depending on the course and surface.

Hope that helps. :)
Chris
 

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When someone in a 8th gen Civic or a 9th gen Civic wants to get serious in autocross, the answer is always Chris Shenefield. Look at the results from previous Solo Nationals and look at what he is able to do. While alot of his success comes from the driver, his 07 Civic is way under powered in class against the RSX in STF and he is very competitive. I plan on hitting the Solo Nationals this year in STX, and I would love for Chris to be a co-driver just so I could find out how my car could do. After competing at Crows Landing a few weeks ago, the car wasn't the problem, it was the driver...
 

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Rear Si.jpg Wheel.jpg

Pic from the rear shows the camber which is way too much at the moment. Hoping to adjust it back a bit this weekend. Used stock honda centercaps, repainted with gold wheel paint, got enkei logos online and done. Tires have barely worn at all on the rear, done maybe 1.5k miles like this, haven't seen wear go down much at all yet.
 

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This is awesome info, everyone tells me no rear camber but the car seems to handle really well at the moment, I have to use the stock suspension to add in front camber to stay stx, any suggestions on how to achieve it? Im' guessing those bolts that are adjustable? Or does the stock suspension have necessary hardware to get into the -2 to -3 up front? I have the rear as stiff as can be, fronts I've found have better response around 5/8ths firmness, I forget how many turns it was on the konis at the moment. I was gunna do the progress 24mm bar but $115 for the 19mm Eibach bar was way more in my budget, and seems to help the car understeer less (probably the best investment of all the modifications on a dollar/difference standpoint). Might go up to a progress bar in the future. I daily drive the car so I'd like to keep the regular stock bushings for now until I can get a second car for a daily. Thanks for the advice!
 

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Hey there, I run in STX with my '14 Civic Si. From what I can tell from the SCCA rule book is you can adjust camber by either Bolts or Camber plates but not both. I don't believe the stock suspension has enough adjustment for that much camber. I'm currently running stock specs on my car and I'm waiting on my coils from Chris to come in. Then I can go with a more aggressive setup for my car.

Yes I'll second the advice on the driver. The "Driver Mod" is the best thing you can do. I know it isn't as sexy as coils, rear sway bars and such. Sticky tires and seat time will do you better in the long run than any of those things.
 

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Personally if you're thinking of tracking your car I would get some Federal 595RS tires, they're the most inexpensive track tire and has ridiculously good grip. Far superior bang for buck vs the tires you were looking at, also I track and d2 springs & truhart shocks, doesn't really matter there the biggest difference that I felt was the underbody braces, trunk brace, front and rear strut bars then to top it off i just installed my progress 24mm rear sway bar last night and its locked in pretty good. Corner Balance and alignment help too, but I can't recall what my settings are.
 
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I haven't heard much about the federals, but the falkens have been awesome, especially in the wet which surprised me, and at $432 for a set of 4 255 width 200 treadwears... can't go wrong really.
 

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I haven't heard much about the federals, but the falkens have been awesome, especially in the wet which surprised me, and at $432 for a set of 4 255 width 200 treadwears... can't go wrong really.
feredral rsr-r is a l.a. local favorites because it's cheap and sticky... falken rt615k & the new falken rt615k+ are pretty awesome too

this fg4 is using 235 nitto nt05, with full brace + buddy club racing spec coils, he can do a fwy interchange ramp from max 90~100mph (s2000) to a whopping 130mph without skipping a beat.

if your l.a. local, it's ramp from 605 north to 210 west towards pasadena. and federal are much stickier than the nt05

 

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feredral rsr-r is a l.a. local favorites because it's cheap and sticky... falken rt615k & the new falken rt615k+ are pretty awesome too

this fg4 is using 235 nitto nt05, with full brace + buddy club racing spec coils, he can do a fwy interchange ramp from max 90~100mph (s2000) to a whopping 130mph without skipping a beat.

if your l.a. local, it's ramp from 605 north to 210 west towards pasadena. and federal are much stickier than the nt05


Glad to hear about the NT05's I always thought those where the rich mans track tires. lol This is a sick track build, I'm almost up to this point. I have nearly every brace, front and rear strut bars, dp and vittuned. Just need the mid W frame brace, high end coils and some wider wheels.. this dude got some Volks tho!? if so dude spent money the right way.. I ain't gonna lie I'm doing a poor mans track build and getting some enkei's lol.

also thanks for the Progress sway bar just installed today along with the rear brace and took the whip up in the hills! its lit af on the real. nice bling too 18951126_10213470195130322_6762125061523569231_n.jpg
 
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Glad to hear about the NT05's I always thought those where the rich mans track tires. lol This is a sick track build, I'm almost up to this point. I have nearly every brace, front and rear strut bars, dp and vittuned. Just need the mid W frame brace, high end coils and some wider wheels.. this dude got some Volks tho!? if so dude spent money the right way.. I ain't gonna lie I'm doing a poor mans track build and getting some enkei's lol.

also thanks for the Progress sway bar just installed today along with the rear brace and took the whip up in the hills! its lit af on the real. nice bling too View attachment 451993

believe it or not, black hawk's fg4 have no sway bar upgrade, it's stock 24mm front & 20mm rear, but i did tweak it so it's "tight"... yeah his car handles like a dream and about his te37, none of my customer pay retails on rays or advan wheels...

i am glad you like the set up
 

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So I just came back from day 1 at nationals in STX. I'm about 4 seconds slower than the slowest 86. those things are quick. My driving is still at a beginner level, and I found myself coming in way too hot in a few corners (i brake too late pretty often). While this didn't help my times it did help me get a feel for the level of understeer I am dealing with. And WOW. Theres a lot of it... For tomorrow, since I can't get SPC bolts in time to do the front camber, I'm going to go as close to 32psi as I can (any lower and tpms might goes off) in front, and try out around 40 psi at the rear. I have the rears turned up completely on the konis, fronts were at half as Chris has suggested. I have some time tonight to work on the car as my girlfriend is out of the house visiting friends on the cape, so I can spend some quality time with my other girl... the honda. I have come in 1st in my novice class at a few events, so I think I am doing well for a beginner, but my god these guys fly in those br-zs, 86s, & rx-8s. Weight and power is almost the same as our cars, so these guys are good! Anyone have any tips to possibly help me out of last place :help:. And before we say it... let me do the honors... tighten the big nut behind the wheel. That I am trying to do every event. I'm totally happy continuing to take last place if I learn along the way! I like the steep competition too it drives me to improve, where the novice class just made me feel like I was better than I really was lol.

So, what am I thinking of trying?

Taking out 1* of negative camber in the rear
Decreasing Front tire pressure and shock dampening
Increasing rear tire pressure
Leaving in spare tire for little more weight in the back? Stupid?
I have 215mm winterforce snow tires I could toss on the back if all else fails... might be interesting to say the least :) jk.

You guys have been really helpful, I find myself checking the forum more and more often, thanks for the help!
 

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Hello good sir. There is a lot we can talk about with the STX class. It's not that the twins are fast, it is their ability to rotate and get power to ground when exiting a corner. They are no faster than our cars, but on an autocross course with a good setup, they are. They are about 150 lbs lighter with better balance. With lots of STX prep done to my car, it is down to 2760 lbs from 2936 lbs stock. With my next modifications I should be down to 2680. Back to driving. Over driving our push happy cars is one of the worst things you can do and trust me, I am still learning that. To the car, lots of front camber(-3.0), rear camber (-2.5), 24mm rear sway bar, 245/40/17 Bridgestone RE-71R tires or BFG's on at least a 8" wide wheel, and coilovers are a must with a good spring rate for autocross. I have a 450 F/650 R spring rate on my car. Once you get this setup, then its all about driving and the little things. Good luck.
 

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So I just came back from day 1 at nationals in STX. I'm about 4 seconds slower than the slowest 86. those things are quick. My driving is still at a beginner level, and I found myself coming in way too hot in a few corners (i brake too late pretty often). While this didn't help my times it did help me get a feel for the level of understeer I am dealing with. And WOW. Theres a lot of it... For tomorrow, since I can't get SPC bolts in time to do the front camber, I'm going to go as close to 32psi as I can (any lower and tpms might goes off) in front, and try out around 40 psi at the rear. I have the rears turned up completely on the konis, fronts were at half as Chris has suggested. I have some time tonight to work on the car as my girlfriend is out of the house visiting friends on the cape, so I can spend some quality time with my other girl... the honda. I have come in 1st in my novice class at a few events, so I think I am doing well for a beginner, but my god these guys fly in those br-zs, 86s, & rx-8s. Weight and power is almost the same as our cars, so these guys are good! Anyone have any tips to possibly help me out of last place :help:. And before we say it... let me do the honors... tighten the big nut behind the wheel. That I am trying to do every event. I'm totally happy continuing to take last place if I learn along the way! I like the steep competition too it drives me to improve, where the novice class just made me feel like I was better than I really was lol.

So, what am I thinking of trying?

Taking out 1* of negative camber in the rear
Decreasing Front tire pressure and shock dampening
Increasing rear tire pressure
Leaving in spare tire for little more weight in the back? Stupid?
I have 215mm winterforce snow tires I could toss on the back if all else fails... might be interesting to say the least :) jk.

You guys have been really helpful, I find myself checking the forum more and more often, thanks for the help!
I suggest you turn up the front all the way to stiff. I run the fortune auto 500's and they are 8k ft and 5k rr. I turn them all the way to stiff for autocross... with -3 camber all around, the 22mm sway bar and sticky tires I get very little understeer.
 

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Hey I too run in STX. I'm currently under prepped for the class but Coils are on the way. How are your tires holding up with the 32 psi? I find that if I run any lower than that I scrub the sidewalls too much. I can run lower pressures on concert but not so much.
They are about 150 lbs lighter with better balance. With lots of STX prep done to my car, it is down to 2760 lbs from 2936 lbs stock. With my next modifications I should be down to 2680.
How have you dropped the weight? Hey cool, I wasn't sure if you could run 245 on 8inch rims in our cars. Awesome. that'll be my third set of tires. I would also imagine with a tune our cars power to weight would be better than the twins.
Chris (From RedShift) and I have been working on my setup. Going with a 8k/10k spring rate setup with the digressive pistons from BC Racing.
 

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I run TSW Interlagos 17"x 8" with a 35mm offset. I really like the Bridgestones but I run thru the fronts in about 60 runs. The rear wheels are tight but with -2.5 negative camber it works just fine. I also have a Battery Tender battery which saves 27 lbs. Front air pressure is always at 35 psi and I have been playing with the rear psi trying to get the best rotation. At the Colorado Tour I was running 22 psi in the rear. May have to go lower still...
 

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This is what I am aiming for. I'm looking at front camber kits whether bolts or plates next. My 19mm rear sway bar will have to do for now, as the 24mm bars are pricey!. I ended up about 4 seconds behind the slower fr-s and rx-8s at the end of yesterday, learned a lot. Braking earlier, with a slow-in, fast-out strategy helped tremendously. Trail braking was invaluable for adding in rotation as needed mid corner, and heel and toe shifting is helping me save lots of time after long straights from 3rd to 2nd (devens is a very fast course on an airforce runway). I used the whole rear tire even with my extreme rear camber. I think firmer rear springs, more front camber, and practice is the next step, then from there maybe better tires and rear swaybar next season!
 

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I run TSW Interlagos 17"x 8" with a 35mm offset. I really like the Bridgestones but I run thru the fronts in about 60 runs. The rear wheels are tight but with -2.5 negative camber it works just fine. I also have a Battery Tender battery which saves 27 lbs. Front air pressure is always at 35 psi and I have been playing with the rear psi trying to get the best rotation. At the Colorado Tour I was running 22 psi in the rear. May have to go lower still...
22 psi in the rear?? Curious why the low pressure? I ran 35 front 35 rear first day this weekend, understeered terribly. Next day I did 33 front 40 rear and the car was a million times better, far less shoveling understeer. Is there a method I am unaware of with low rear pressure? Experience tells me the opposite is what I should go for!
 

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Good question on the rear tire pressure. Go to Redshift Motorsports and read his thoughts on air pressure. In the past, I ran higher psi in the rear tires and had snap oversteer. With the lower psi, the oversteer is controllable.
 
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