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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2013 Si Sedan, 3,303 miles on it. My wife's 2013 Accord with everything on it, has no battery problems at all at about 25,000 miles. I've had my car for about 2.5 months and the battery is slowly discharging until it almost dies. The car is completely stock, no extra nothing. I don't charge my phone in the car and I only run a GPS in the outlet when I'm on a very long drive (100's of miles). The battery charger has had to been on the battery for hours at a time. I have tried to check for parasitic draw, but watching Youtube have discovered that with newer cars it's not easy anymore. So, I tried a straightforward test tonight. Multimeter on the battery, start the car - rev it up. At about 3000 - 3800 the meter is reading just over 12.7 volts - really? If I turn EVERYTHING on (A/C, all lights, fan on High), then the car starts to charge. It seems like this car's smart charging system is pretty not smart. I've never owned a car that killed it's own battery. Can someone give a hand before I head to the dealership? Thanks.
 

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You Don't know Me!
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I would definately go to the dealership. We've been victims.
 

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You Don't know Me!
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In your terms, we've been robbed and cheated from Honda's bad oem batteries.

Best to get it replaced under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, that's what I'm beginning to hear. The battery is made by Johnson Controls who makes a majority of the batteries on the market. I am surprised to hear that the OEM battery might not be very good. I think I am laying blame on Honda's "smart" charging system that tries to not charge the battery at light loads. I'm not sure if the old liquid filled lead/acid batteries are capable of understanding. Anyway, to have such a stupid problem so early on in ownership is frustrating.
 

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Yeah, that's what I'm beginning to hear. The battery is made by Johnson Controls who makes a majority of the batteries on the market. I am surprised to hear that the OEM battery might not be very good. I think I am laying blame on Honda's "smart" charging system that tries to not charge the battery at light loads. I'm not sure if the old liquid filled lead/acid batteries are capable of understanding. Anyway, to have such a stupid problem so early on in ownership is frustrating.

JCI are hit an miss, some good and others are crap, depends a lot on where they are made. My Si is 2 years old and no issues, haven't tested the battery yet but I should probably test it now that it's on my mind. I work in the car battery business so I can get East Penn (Deka) real cheap and will switch to that once mine is starting to die.

I would go to the dealer and get it tested, that way you know if it's just a battery issue and not a drain/charging system problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the Info on JCI. I was not aware of their spotty reputation, though +1 on "where they're made." I did decide to take it to a dealership where they can play dueling computers (a game that I'm just not equipped for.) Hey what do you think about the Odyssey batteries?? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just quick note: Took my car in to the dealership where they told me that they couldn't find anything wrong. Bring the car back when the battery is dead - they told me. Gee, thanks a lot.
 

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They usually test battery on the GR8, they pretty much listen to results no matter what. I posted my experience probably in the other thread you replied too, but took about 5 tests and having the car park dead in their drive way to actually get them to actually work on it to get me out of the way. Which turned out a bad cell in the battery. My car would die pretty much after a good 8-15 cranks with no headlights running, I have a SI by the way. Usually normal civics are a lot better, I had my wife used my other battery to confirm issues, it ran pretty well on hers for awhile till it literally died one day while driving which confirms suspicion. I have a 2012 civic SI and she has a 2013 EX-L. So I assume they have better charging or lower cranks than SI. I'm not sure how these honda batteries pass, but they can pass a crank test and everything yet still be bad. Check the eye too on battery, should be a decent light green, not dark hulk green like.

As long as you get a good solid 14 volts with headlights on I would presume alternator would be okay and most likely battery. Your car however is still new so battery is covered 3 years as long as you're not past 36k. Mileage warranty on battery is dumb I think, but now your problem is fighting with the dealership. I would just keep going or be proactive and see if you can talk to a manager about it because a dead car brand new is not something you have to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, I went ahead and took your advice. I bought an Optima yellow top battery, but there seems to be something running on the car every night (like around midnight or so). So when I check the voltage on that battery when I stop the car and the battery voltage in the early morning just before I go to work - it's always lower in the morning than it was the night before also. Anyway, I have to say that I really miss the Mazda right about now.
 

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They usually test battery on the GR8, they pretty much listen to results no matter what..
AHM will not pay a warranty claim for a battery without a GR8 diagnosis.
The GR8 issues a "failure code" that has to be included with the claim.

Based on what has been posted by jsannes, I'm thinking there is a bad cell in the battery.
Since he's installed an alternate battery, time will tell.
 

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Thanks for the Info on JCI. I was not aware of their spotty reputation, though +1 on "where they're made." I did decide to take it to a dealership where they can play dueling computers (a game that I'm just not equipped for.) Hey what do you think about the Odyssey batteries?? Thanks.
Optima used to be a good battery, not anymore and for sure not worth the price.

AHM will not pay a warranty claim for a battery without a GR8 diagnosis.
The GR8 issues a "failure code" that has to be included with the claim.

Based on what has been posted by jsannes, I'm thinking there is a bad cell in the battery.
Since he's installed an alternate battery, time will tell.
They will not get reimbursed from the supplier without a valid test code, that is how it works with my company and my customers. My computer automatically checks the test code and will reject an invalid code when I make an invoice.
 

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My understanding is that with the headlights off (i.e., DRL on), the alternator is putting out low voltage (~12.7V); turn on the headlights and the alternator voltage kicks up (~14.4V). So, if you are driving around for weeks at a time without having used the headlights, your battery may not be getting the charge it needs...

I personally hook up my microprocessor-controlled Schumacher charger to the battery once a month, to help remove any [reversible] sulfation which may be present on the batteries internal lead plates... Two years now and the OEM battery is very strong!

FYI, Hondata integrated an option (called, "fuel efficient alternator control") in FlashPro which allows the user to "force" the alternator to always be putting out 14.4V.
 

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Have the battery tested. If good, ill personally walk you through a proper parasitic draw test.... however with 3000 miles, completwly stock I would hope it would be a warrantable concern
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The Tech, Thank you for the offer of walking me through a little diagnostic. My Optima tests good on the load tester. However, as I get to know the car, it seem to me that my problem may be as simple as the Honda software is not allowing my battery to charge up fully with the driving that I do (even though I've never had a problem before - 44 miles a day with 70% highway driving. No joke, owning a Honda is not putting a smile on my face.
 

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i didnt see that you had an aftermarket bettery, so obviously honda wouldnt warranty it haha. Its not a software issue not allowing the car to charge. it could be anything from a factory defect alternator (could be tested with the gr8 tester at your local honda dealership although you will have to pay if no warrantable concerns are found. 44 miles a day is MORE than enough to keep a battery adequately charged provided youre not running every accesory and charging crap in every power outlet. seeing as your below 13 volts when running, i doubt its a paratisic draw (although it could still have a draw, it wouldnt cause low charging). ill still gladly walk you through a draw test if you'd like. Have you got a high impedence digital multimeter?
 

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Why do you have an Optima battery in such a new car ?
Load testers are not the end all be all of battery testing and can be inaccurate, did you get any kind of printout or test code from that load test ?
Was it just a load test, or was there a charging/starting system test as well ?
 

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i didnt see that you had an aftermarket bettery, so obviously honda wouldnt warranty it haha. Its not a software issue not allowing the car to charge. it could be anything from a factory defect alternator (could be tested with the gr8 tester at your local honda dealership although you will have to pay if no warrantable concerns are found. 44 miles a day is MORE than enough to keep a battery adequately charged provided youre not running every accesory and charging crap in every power outlet. seeing as your below 13 volts when running, i doubt its a paratisic draw (although it could still have a draw, it wouldnt cause low charging). ill still gladly walk you through a draw test if you'd like. Have you got a high impedence digital multimeter?
Does constantly using the cigarette lighter socket to power stuff or charge stuff kill the battery faster?
 

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Car's been slow to start and it didn't want to go this morning, needing a jump. Need a GR8 test on my battery. Going to do it Monday morning (assuming it's not a problem).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Okay, here's what's happened. Yes, the car is very new. I checked the battery voltage with my multimeter - it was 12.2v. So I started and ran the car. Starting pushed the voltage to below 10v. Running at idle with no load, the meter showed like 12.6v, I revved the engine up - no change. I put the headlights on - no change. I had to turn on every electrical device in order to get the meter to indicate 14v. I took the car to the dealership, they checked the charging system and let it idle most of the day and they couldn't find anything wrong. So, that's why I went over and bought the Optima battery. I hate to throw parts at the car, but I did not think that parasitic draw would kill my voltage like it was and that obviously the alternator was doing something just not all the time.
So, I charged up the Optima, then let it set overnight. Battery voltage - in the morning- remained the same (rather than going down). Today I ran my multimeter test again. Surprise! At idle with nothing on, pretty much the same. With headlights only, the meter showed 14v. I drove all over today (with only the headlights and radio on), came home, checked the voltage on the battery and it showed 12.8 (with maybe a little surface charge on there.) So, with a change of battery only suddenly the car seems to be working like it should. Thank you for all of those who have been responding.
The Tech: Ya know, if you would write out and PM me (or state here) the step for parasitic draw test, I would actually be grateful. I used to be a Harley mechanic and although the Honda is much more complex, I think I could follow a set of instructions. Best Wishes.
 
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