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Car's been slow to start and it didn't want to go this morning, needing a jump. Need a GR8 test on my battery. Going to do it Monday morning (assuming it's not a problem).

Call AAA and ask for a battery test, they use a Midtronics EXP-1000 re-branded with with my companies name. Ruby's towing is the AAA contractor in your area, right off I-90 on front street next to the AM/PM.

Don't buy a battery from the dealer, AAA is cheaper and it's a Deka (East Penn) battery which is better than the POS JCI you would get at the dealer. I could probably get you an even better deal, but you'd have to drive down to Lakewood when I'm at East Penn, which is only for an hour or 2 in the early afternoon.
 

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Glad your issue is finally fixed, or so I hope! I understand the reasoning behind the GR8, however it put's more frustration and work on the customer as the customer has to deal with another level of hassle. It's like you go to the dealership, and check your battery only for it to pass yet your car still dies. However all the dealership will do is be like oh, well it pass so just drive till it keeps dying again. That's not a solution that even attempts to diagnose the electrical problem, more of a it's too much work to figure out your problem so we'll send you away. I had to bring my car dead to the dealership for them to actually work on it and do a GR8 test enough times till it said battery was dead, and of course 36k warranty was gone and no way I was going to use 100 dollars to a Honda battery that can't uphold warranty for 2 years when any other battery has a minimum 3 year replacement on most high end batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
I don't know a lot about battery construction (besides lead/acid or AGM build), but I don't understand how the battery can pass and yet be "broken" somehow. I have had batteries with bad cells where you charge the battery up and it looks okay on a voltmeter / hydrometer, but when you put a load on it- it crashes. But that's not what seems to happen here. Anyway, for the last 2 days the car has seemed "normal." I still think this "don't charge under low loads," is a stupid way to save 1 or 2 MPG.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Oh, and now the bonus round. Last part (really). Parasitic draw. Wouldn't you know, I put my face under the dash and what do I see. Some little 2-dollar car alarm (with half the stuff not even connected.) I pulled that out and now my voltage over several days (overnight) is rock steady. I called the originating dealership; "this unit cannot be a problem because it's been de-activated." It was still hooked up to the main power line to the fuse box under the dash. So, I de-activated it by throwing it in the trash.
 

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Oh, and now the bonus round. Last part (really). Parasitic draw. Wouldn't you know, I put my face under the dash and what do I see. Some little 2-dollar car alarm (with half the stuff not even connected.) I pulled that out and now my voltage over several days (overnight) is rock steady. I called the originating dealership; "this unit cannot be a problem because it's been de-activated." It was still hooked up to the main power line to the fuse box under the dash. So, I de-activated it by throwing it in the trash.
Did the dealer cut any wires or use scotch lock wire splicers when the alarm was installed?
If so, I would, demand that the damaged wire harnesses be replaced.
 

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Call AAA and ask for a battery test, they use a Midtronics EXP-1000 re-branded with with my companies name. Ruby's towing is the AAA contractor in your area, right off I-90 on front street next to the AM/PM.

Don't buy a battery from the dealer, AAA is cheaper and it's a Deka (East Penn) battery which is better than the POS JCI you would get at the dealer. I could probably get you an even better deal, but you'd have to drive down to Lakewood when I'm at East Penn, which is only for an hour or 2 in the early afternoon.
I skipped out on the appointment at Honda. I'll run to Ruby's this weekend. Other than the couple of problems over last weekend, the battery hasn't been giving me problems and is cranking over with no problems. Dunno what exactly is going on, oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Teeps, yes the dealership seems to have used a pirate sword on the wires, but I don't trust the dealership and it's a headache to have to lose the car (and they wont pay for a rental). I'll fix it and we'll be good. FooBird, I would not have believed that my OEM battery was bad either as it certainly didn't give me any indications that it was bad, but the car certainly straightened up as soon as the battery was replaced (by me of course).
 

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I skipped out on the appointment at Honda. I'll run to Ruby's this weekend. Other than the couple of problems over last weekend, the battery hasn't been giving me problems and is cranking over with no problems. Dunno what exactly is going on, oh well.

I don't think their office is staffed on the weekends, either way call AAA from home or work and somebody will get there. AAA member price for a 51R in our area is $114 plus tax.
 

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My understanding is that with the headlights off (i.e., DRL on), the alternator is putting out low voltage (~12.7V); turn on the headlights and the alternator voltage kicks up (~14.4V). So, if you are driving around for weeks at a time without having used the headlights, your battery may not be getting the charge it needs...

I personally hook up my microprocessor-controlled Schumacher charger to the battery once a month, to help remove any [reversible] sulfation which may be present on the batteries internal lead plates... Two years now and the OEM battery is very strong!

FYI, Hondata integrated an option (called, "fuel efficient alternator control") in FlashPro which allows the user to "force" the alternator to always be putting out 14.4V.
I had my car tuned when I put bolt ons on my 2014 civic si and the light appeared on my imid charge charge system. Didn't know there was a switch on flashpro to turn up the volts. Guessing my tuner didn't know either. I'm going to go try and look for this when I get home


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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I've never thought about buying a specific battery the my car. I just buy whatever on the shelf at Walmart that will fit my car and so far its been going great plus Walmart battery has 3-4 years warranty so I always replaced them for free every 3 years.
 

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Well other then a bad OEM battery that i replaced with an Exide AGM, my 2012 Si never game me trouble and i have a Scangauge connected in the OBD2 port 24\24hrs. Apparently there is a TSB for a ECU reflash for some 2012 civics. That is what my dealer told me ages ago. In 2014 probably..

Marko!
 

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Honda news reported by otohome suggested that it is best to replace the battery once during the warranty period.
The problem with that scheme is Honda will only replace a battery under warranty IF said battery fails the ED18 and/or GR8 test.
Those testers produce a printout with an authorization code so the dealer can get paid.... not printout no pay.
 

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Though It's an old thread, But I presume, people are visiting it for their ongoing battery problem solutions. As we know the Corona Virus Covid-19 Outbreak may hamper Honda's Servicing Procedures. We should focus on Self help.

I feel majority of the battery related issues might be due to multiple issues, here are 2 simple methods which may help anyone in need:

There are 2 major ways by which you can charge your car battery

  1. By Battery Charger
  2. By Jumpstart cables
You can learn about these methods from here : How to Charge Car Battery in 2 Simple methods

Additionally below are certain quick steps which we should follow so that we do not encounter battery related issues in future:


Follow your car service schedule properly: This will help you maintain the engine as well as battery life in better condition.


Change/Replace car battery on every 3rd year: Generally, car batteries have an average lifespan of 3 to 4 years hence it is very important to replace them on every 3rd or 4th year of usage. Battery life is also affected by the way of driving, weather, and conditions.


Always drive your car regularly: By driving the car regularly helps in charging the battery by motion generated power. It also maintains engine life because a prolonged switched off the engine is susceptible to higher maintenance costs.


Pay attention while charging: Always make sure to charge the adequate power supply to your car battery. An undercharged/over charged car battery has a lesser lifespan!


Switch off all electricals before parking:
Even a small electrical component can drain out the complete power supply from the car battery. Hence make sure to switch off all electrical systems before parking.


Regularly clean the car batteries: Regularly inspect the car battery for any left acid residue nearby battery terminals and clean them up and smear some grease so that the battery doesn’t get any corrosion.


Do NOT Jumpstart a complete zero charge car battery:
This may sound counterproductive to our above-mentioned methods of charging the car batteries but it’s very important to note that jumpstarting a flat car battery may cause serious damage to batteries or electronic systems. Hence it is always advisable to jump-start car battery only if it’s not completely flat on the charge.
 
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