9th Gen Civic Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just purchased 2012 honda civic ex. I am putting new brakes on rear. The bolts for the calibers are 12mm i believe. But they are on so tight. Any tricks to help? I have put penetration spray on it. Still no help
 

·
Truck? What truck?!
Joined
·
27,140 Posts
What kind of wrench are you using? Adjustable (NO)? Open end? Box? None of those allow you to apply enough torque to loosen tough nuts and bolts. If you haven't already, use a 3/8 or 1.2" ratchet drive with an appropriately sized 6 point socket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Yes i am using a 1/2 drive with 6 side socket. Does the 2012 have a locking slide pin. Like you have to hold onto slide pin to be able to free caliber bolt?. Thank you for picture of caliber resetting. Also i was seeing on other honda that the slide pins have a locking feature...does that apply to civic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,504 Posts
i've changed my rear brakes on a '14, and no locking feature on them. again, this was a '14 model, so can't 100% say with absolute positivity that your '12 does or does not have them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Unless you see your slide pin rotating while you try to loosen you shouldn't have to hold your pin down in any way. If you have good placement and straight angle with the socket onto the bolt you don't have to worry much about stripping. Try to have a replacement bolt in case the bolt is seized and decides to snap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
I've been messing around with my brakes a lot lately (2013 SI) and I think I could probably open a brake shop now with all I learned.
Regarding your pins bolts, the factory torque is 17 on the rears and 25 on the front. They're not on there very tight, but if you live in the rust belt like me, they may be a little crusty. They will spin the pins themselves, but you would see it happening.
Remember that since the bolt heads are facing away from you, it's right-loosey, lefty-tighty. Use a 1/2" wrench with a rubber mallet, make sure the socket is a good fit. Spray it good with liquid wrench first and let it marinate for 10 minutes, then give it a few hard whacks, clockwise.

Some other notes that I learned from experience in the past few weeks:
Use a wire wheel to remove all the rust/gunk under where the stainless clips touch the caliper bracket, then add lube in there and put fresh clips on, or clean your old ones to look like new. The pads should be able to slide fine, not stick.

I had seized front pins. You should clean or replace, and lube, the caliper pins every time you're in here messing around with the brakes.

Be careful of orientation of upper and lower caliper pins. They're specific in front and in back.

Lube the backs of the pads where they make contact.

Bleed your brakes a little after pushing pistons back in.

The front pin heads are shaped to make contact against the caliper bracket to stop rotation. Make sure you don't sandwich it by accident.

If you take the caliper brackets off to clean them up in a vice, add some medium loctite and torque to 80 front and 55 rear when reattaching.

For lube, I like the Permatex purple ceramic stuff for everything but the pins, where I just use 3m silicone paste.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Not much rust i live in florida. But i think the pins are moving on me with the bolt. Ill try and hold the slide pin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I finally got it loose witha torch. New guide pins, bolts pads installed. Now off to the front pads.....yippie another adventure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,388 Posts
Yea that seems like a bit much. I had to cut a caliper bolt out of mine tho cuz someone rounded the hell out of it. Probably why the brakes hadn't been done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
Here's the video that taught me most of the important things left out in other videos:
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top