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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I spent the majority of the weekend installing the skunk2 cai and PLM downpipe on my 2015 civic si coupe. The intake involves relocating the battery and extending the negative battery terminal wire as well as relocating the negative battery grounding wire. Anyways, I finished the install and when I went to start the car, the electronics flickered and the engine didn't turn over. So after that point, the car was completely dead electrically. I started poking around with a voltmeter and found that the place where I grounded the negative battery terminal after relocating it was insulated so it was not effective( the CAI installation instructions said to bolt the grounding cable to the bottom bolt on the master break fluid cylinder bracket, but after the voltmeter tipped me off I inspected the bracket and realized it was painted thus not being an effective grounding point). So I solved this issue, reconnected the terminals to the battery, but the car is still deader than a door nail. Battery is still good, and I checked all the fuses in the engine compartment and none of them are blown. So I was wondering if the car is in a locked state as a result of not being grounded properly when I attempted starting it last, and if there was some fuse I needed to pull or some reset button somewhere to press to unlock it?? I don't know... please help :')
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I bet you blew a main fuse. Did you disconnect the battery when you did the install?
Verify the battery is connected correct?
Yes I had to disconnect the battery to do the install since it requires battery relocation. And yea the battery is correctly installed
 

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It's the bolt that you used to relocate the ground terminal onto the brake fluid mount.
Swap it with the same identical original bolt that was connected to the original location of ground cable and it will work. I made that same mistake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's the bolt that you used to relocate the ground terminal onto the brake fluid mount.
Swap it with the same identical original bolt that was connected to the original location of ground cable and it will work. I made that same mistake.
I tested it with a voltmeter and it still gave me 12 volts...I feel like it wouldn't if that was the case. Does the bolt that was originally used to ground it look any different? It was a 10mm bolt, which there are a lot of when installing the new intake. So it could be anywhere on the car right now... lol
 

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On the motor, instead of having it run to where it was before I ran it to one of the bolts on the valve cover.
 

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Correct. It was only temporary until I was going to sand down the paint and put it back to the original spot, but now it's been about 2 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Correct. It was only temporary until I was going to sand down the paint and put it back to the original spot, but now it's been about 2 years.
did you have to use the bolt that was originally used to ground the battery cable? or did you just use a 10mm bolt. I'm trying to figure out if there is something special about the bolt that was originally used to ground it. Thats the only thing that makes sense as to why its not working because i already sanded off the paint
 

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Hey man,
I apologize if my suggestions come across as the wrong way.

Please humor me and check a few things:
-Check fuse 46, that is the main fuse for Ignition and Wipers.
http://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/exterior/2977-diagram-pics-fuse-box.html
Easiest way to check the fuse is to see if the voltmeter has continuity from one end of the circuit to the other.
-Make sure the battery is installed correctly, the positive and negative cables should barely reach with negative closest to the dash. Please check the way ZcEF has the Positive and Negative terminal attached/routed.
-Bad ground as suggested before, remove and reattach the battery terminals and make sure they are clean. Did the wires come loose when re-routing the battery cables?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nope just removed the nut off the valve cover and attached the wire, then put the nut back on.
Wow. Took me all of 15 minutes to do that and it works like a charm! I wish I had known that was an option before I spent 3 hours fiddling with things trying to find out what was going on. Thanks so much!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey man,
I apologize if my suggestions come across as the wrong way.

Please humor me and check a few things:
-Check fuse 46, that is the main fuse for Ignition and Wipers.

Easiest way to check the fuse is to see if the voltmeter has continuity from one end of the circuit to the other.
-Make sure the battery is installed correctly, the positive and negative cables should barely reach with negative closest to the dash. Please check the way ZcEF has the Positive and Negative terminal attached/routed.
-Bad ground as suggested before, remove and reattach the battery terminals and make sure they are clean. Did the wires come loose when re-routing the battery cables?
Everything you have described has been checked twice over in the three hours I spent trying to figure out why the hell my car had zero power. Turns out the negative ground wire just wasn't making a proper connection.
 
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