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I'm also having the same problem. First started in the Winter where my 15 Si wouldn't start on the 1st try. Didn't think much of it. It would start on the 2nd or 3rd try. OK fine. It did that occasionally. Then finally it wouldn't start anymore last Monday. It would start with a jump so I went and got a new battery. It would start on the 1st try no big deal. Come Wednesday wouldn't start anymore again. It would start with a jump. I text my friend who owns a shop and he says to bring it in the next day so he can do a bit of trouble shooting. Thursday I get my 2nd COVID shot, drop the car off at my friends and the Check Charging System warning comes up. He says it's most likely the alternator. He then does some readings and sees that he can hear my starter click and then changes his mind and says it's the starter. Hooks up a scanner and says that I may need a new battery sensor too. Now this is where it confuses me, if the car can start with a jump, why would it be the starter? At this point I'm starting to feel the side effects and said **** it. I'll just leave it at Honda so they can properly diagnose it. Leave the car at Honda and they say it's the starter but no starter around. They would have to order it and won't be installed until Mon/Tuesday. I'll keep you guys posted. Also no electric mods.
As with ANY electrical problem: start at the battery, then battery cable connections.

Did anyone check the battery voltage as the starter was engaged?
(battery voltage should never drop below 12V when cranking the engine.)
 

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Battery is new, cable connections are tight.

I don’t have the car in front of me now so I can’t check what it is when cranking.


Sent from my iPhone X while on the toilet.
 

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So it was just only the starter. I’m a bit pissed at myself for letting them do the work...


Sent from my iPhone X while on the toilet.
 

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I had the same issue on my 2014 SI what it turned out to be was on the positive battery terminal there’s a green and white wire one of them could be snapped and that popped up my check charging system, earlier today I got it again for the same reason but now it’s both wires and I just connected them back with butt connectors, and the problem didn’t resolve so I’ll see what else it is
Having the exact same issue. Did you ever determine what it was?
 

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There is a single wire connector going to the alternator, that wire is your ELD wire. There is a single wire connector at the positive of the battery, that wire sends the signal to the ECU. The ECU sends the command to the alternator telling how much charge to send. With the ELD single wire disconnected from the alternator, or the MIL / charge warning light is illuminated, the alternator will default to max charge until the proper conditions are met.
That being said, the sensor on the battery is possibly malfunctioning, sending the wrong signal to the ECU or there is a short to ground or short to battery or open in the ELD wire either from the ECU to alternator or battery sensor to ECU.
Also, because these newer cars operate with the ELD sensor, most cars, do not read a draw directly from the battery terminal. Therefore, it is very common practice to install a resistor or other device (for aftermarket sound systems and lighting) located in-line beneath the under hood fuse box on these cars (check under the fuse box for anything abnormal or modified). It is also common to remove the single wire from the alternator to achieve the same result. Although, the resistor does not trigger a MIL code, and unplugging will.
If I remember correctly, the fuse for the ELD is located beneath the under hood fuse box (to protect the ECU) and that is why people chose that area to install a resistor (to trick the ECU into thinking it needs a charge).
 
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