As with ANY electrical problem: start at the battery, then battery cable connections.
Did anyone check the battery voltage as the starter was engaged?
(battery voltage should never drop below 12V when cranking the engine.)
Check Charging System
Hi all,
New to the forum. I just bought a second hand 2014 Civic and its been great except one thing.
Every-time I start the car, 10 seconds later, "Check Charging System" pops up and battery light come on in the dash.
To my understanding, the system had an ELD which controls when the alternator kicks in and when it does not.
Whenever I start the car, I get a reading in the 14v's, regardless of what accessories are on, headlights, etc.
I have changed the battery. I have changed the negative terminal battery sensor. I have changed the ELD (in hood fuse box). I have checked all other fuses.
Message still comes on every time.
Any ideas?
Thanks for your input.
New to the forum. I just bought a second hand 2014 Civic and its been great except one thing.
Every-time I start the car, 10 seconds later, "Check Charging System" pops up and battery light come on in the dash.
To my understanding, the system had an ELD which controls when the alternator kicks in and when it does not.
Whenever I start the car, I get a reading in the 14v's, regardless of what accessories are on, headlights, etc.
I have changed the battery. I have changed the negative terminal battery sensor. I have changed the ELD (in hood fuse box). I have checked all other fuses.
Message still comes on every time.
Any ideas?
Thanks for your input.
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Did anyone check the battery voltage as the starter was engaged?
(battery voltage should never drop below 12V when cranking the engine.)
Battery is new, cable connections are tight.
I don’t have the car in front of me now so I can’t check what it is when cranking.
Sent from my iPhone X while on the toilet.
I don’t have the car in front of me now so I can’t check what it is when cranking.
Sent from my iPhone X while on the toilet.
So it was just only the starter. I’m a bit pissed at myself for letting them do the work...
Sent from my iPhone X while on the toilet.
Sent from my iPhone X while on the toilet.
Having the exact same issue. Did you ever determine what it was?I had the same issue on my 2014 SI what it turned out to be was on the positive battery terminal there’s a green and white wire one of them could be snapped and that popped up my check charging system, earlier today I got it again for the same reason but now it’s both wires and I just connected them back with butt connectors, and the problem didn’t resolve so I’ll see what else it is
Having the exact same issue. Did you ever determine what it was?
I have heard it may be starter from other posts, I haven't been able to troubleshoot mine as I have a ignition interlock installed for a few more months...
There is a single wire connector going to the alternator, that wire is your ELD wire. There is a single wire connector at the positive of the battery, that wire sends the signal to the ECU. The ECU sends the command to the alternator telling how much charge to send. With the ELD single wire disconnected from the alternator, or the MIL / charge warning light is illuminated, the alternator will default to max charge until the proper conditions are met.
That being said, the sensor on the battery is possibly malfunctioning, sending the wrong signal to the ECU or there is a short to ground or short to battery or open in the ELD wire either from the ECU to alternator or battery sensor to ECU.
Also, because these newer cars operate with the ELD sensor, most cars, do not read a draw directly from the battery terminal. Therefore, it is very common practice to install a resistor or other device (for aftermarket sound systems and lighting) located in-line beneath the under hood fuse box on these cars (check under the fuse box for anything abnormal or modified). It is also common to remove the single wire from the alternator to achieve the same result. Although, the resistor does not trigger a MIL code, and unplugging will.
If I remember correctly, the fuse for the ELD is located beneath the under hood fuse box (to protect the ECU) and that is why people chose that area to install a resistor (to trick the ECU into thinking it needs a charge).
That being said, the sensor on the battery is possibly malfunctioning, sending the wrong signal to the ECU or there is a short to ground or short to battery or open in the ELD wire either from the ECU to alternator or battery sensor to ECU.
Also, because these newer cars operate with the ELD sensor, most cars, do not read a draw directly from the battery terminal. Therefore, it is very common practice to install a resistor or other device (for aftermarket sound systems and lighting) located in-line beneath the under hood fuse box on these cars (check under the fuse box for anything abnormal or modified). It is also common to remove the single wire from the alternator to achieve the same result. Although, the resistor does not trigger a MIL code, and unplugging will.
If I remember correctly, the fuse for the ELD is located beneath the under hood fuse box (to protect the ECU) and that is why people chose that area to install a resistor (to trick the ECU into thinking it needs a charge).
Thanks! I will look around for a short.
I’m interested also any leads?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All right found the short. Apparently one of the sensor wires was rubbing against a piece of plastic and cut it. Bought a new pigtail and just spliced the wires in. no more check charging system light on
We’re you able to figure out the issue. I have a similar problemHi all, New to the forum. I just bought a second hand 2014 Civic and its been great except one thing. Every-time I start the car, 10 seconds later, "Check Charging System" pops up and battery light come on in the dash. To my understanding, the system had an ELD which controls when the alternator kicks in and when it does not. Whenever I start the car, I get a reading in the 14v's, regardless of what accessories are on, headlights, etc. I have changed the battery. I have changed the negative terminal battery sensor. I have changed the ELD (in hood fuse box). I have checked all other fuses. Message still comes on every time. Any ideas? Thanks for your input.
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
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