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Cleaning cars!!

42311 Views 149 Replies 59 Participants Last post by  Clean12Coupe
Alright!!, lets get it going!, lets see everybody's secrets on making our cars shine.:cheerleader1:
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1 tablespoon to 1qt of water.Works great on wheels also.Very weak solution or yes it is hard on paint
Actually regardless its hard.unless you go 1 drop to a 5 gallon bucket then maybe.
Here's a rundown.
Laundry detergent= dirty towels ,dirty chonies,smelly socks etc.
Dish soap= stuck on lasagna on a baking sheet or dirty stemware etc(unless striping for a wax job)
Car soap= something with 4 wheels and and a powertrain of some sort with glass and seats and a radio.

So lets keep the soaps to what there made for.

The actual detergents in laudry soap will tear up and eat away the paint.much stronger than dish soap.oh yeah and no using laundry soap on a car won't brighten the color.

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Yes, in fact I only drive through car washes. I jus will not go through that 30 min process of spraying, wiping, etc when I can drive through in 6 min and if it's not good enough you bitch to the guy working and you drive through again, and again,and again until I'm satisfied. WAY easier than doin that by hand.
And your paint looks like shit.
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I can certainly guarantee you,your paint is scratched with lots of spiderwebbing.
Yes.drive north 4.27 hours and I'll do it for you every 6 months
Rubbing compound is not to be used unless needed.its an abrasive compound. Its not a polish.typically. it should be.
Clay bar
Polish ,
rough to mild to soft cut
Application varies dependant on your environment.
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Im not an expert, but it's my understanding that polishing is more about giving the wax a good surface to bond to. The rubbing compound is more for paint correction, and the clay bar is for removing embedded contaminants. As long as you're doing it properly and following up with some sort of wax/sealant, you could clay bar as often as you want. If you're not doing any paint correcting then you could skip the compound.
Of course this is all dependent on what products you're actually using as many of these terms (polish, sealant, etc) mean different things to different manufacturers/advertisers.
Wrong on the clay.clay rips stuff off and it also marrs and scratches.thats why you polish afterwards.you don't want to wax and make scratches shiny
At least I don't.
Depends on your application method.menzerna ,Wolfgang,dk,PCC,p&s,wizards,auto glym etc.
Just depends.lots and lots of options but key is,cost and application method and how often you plan on doing it
So i guess rubbing compound is not to be used on the whole car but only parts to parts of the car on the damaged paint area?

Also, i know wash, polish, wax but what's sealant that goes in between polish and wax? I've never heard of it before?

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Go on to autogeek and search they're list of sealers.

Essentially a sealer is a chemical that adheres stronger to your paint than a wax and forms a protective shell.it usually doesn't add much more shine than what you already have.
It's key purpose is to help keep a lot of mother natures crap .also gives you a buffer barrier between bird crap and fallout.it isn't captain Americas shield but it's well worth it.it lasts a long time unlike wax.
It also has a better abrasion resistant property.not saying it won't get scratched but it holds well against minor abrasions from dirt,people,animals wagging tails by your car,etc etc.

A small bottle ,even applied properly twice a year, can last years.
There is also a hard shell coating by a few manufacturers .such as optimum and cquartz.however it is not my recommendation to anyone that hasn't done it or doesn't detail.it's not very easy to apply for a beginner.its expensive to use as a teaching tool.so if you want to give one a shot the simplest and cheapest is TR3 @ Walmart or amazon or eBay. 8-10 bucks you use very little.
Try it on your hood first.split it.only do one half.watch it over a period of 3-6 months
That way you'll see first hand the difference and how noticeable it really is and the difference.only wax the other side of the hood.
Once the sealer has been applied,dried,wiped off,THEN cured over night.quick detail any dust off your hood.add a layer of wax to the whole hood.

Now sit back and keep an eye for the next 3-6 months.
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I use Auto Glym polish and sealant myself and I've had excellent results. I can pick up the product at my local auto parts store for not much more money than Meguiar's OTC stuff. Most people never heard of Auto Glym and just walk by it and grab Meguiar's or Mothers products instead.

I haven't tried Opti Coat cause I'm not comfortable using the product like you said that is best left for the pros.
I use the auto glym HD often.


Not exactly cheap.
But it works great.
I like it.but it takes time to apply right.
It's not a cream wax so it takes a bit getting used to.but works great.
Thats going to be my next wax purchase read really good things about that wax, I'm not a fan of paste wax at all but I'm going to give it a try.
Yeah it is a pita,BUT if you use the auto glym applicator it goes on so well.versus my other applicators.
The others tend to like to "stop" versus go on smooth.hint.use enough to coat very very thin.if not it'll be a pain to remove properly.
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Today i was washing my car and noticed that some parts on my car paint are very rough almost like touching a sandpaper.. Does anyone know what caused this?

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I clay barred my car like last month.. Do you think it's still fallout? Like some parts of the paint, it's really smooth like a new car and some parts feel like im just sliding my fingers over a metal

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If you didn't clay it well,you could have left residual fallout. If you didn't polish well it could have been there still.if you didn't seal it properly and wax it,it could of adhered again.several things could of happened. Another thing is depending where you live you might get fallout easily and quickly even with a good sealer.

I know at work there is a ton so I don't bother with my commuter much.2 times a year is all it gets.anymore then you start eating away too much clear.
Although the paint isn't thin like many claim,do it enough times and you'll burn your pain soon.

So let me be clear on terminology for those that feel like they know it all.
The "paint" as its referred to overall isn't thin.however "the" paint itself also known as the base is in fact very very thin.it's water based so its a 10th as thick as previous OEM paint.HOWEVER the clear coat is the same as its been for years.
Hence people refer to paint being thin.however its not true.the fact is the thicker the paint the easier its prone to chip.that's factual. Look at front end repaints and in enough time they have huge chips missing.I've seen OEM commuter car paintjobs with obvious nicks and chips but nothing of that of a repaint.

So back to the fallout ,its bound to happen.if your in an area that gets it frequently ,then know what is bound to happen and avoid claying frequently.
If it happens frequently then live with it and only clay twice a year.keep in mind you must polish if you want a good result.otherwise you can just clay and wax if you don't care that much.
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