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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone!

Looking to delete the CDV. I understand that there are 2 12mm bolts holding it onto the tranny case, and one 10mm nut for the clutch line.

In attempting to loosen the 10mm line, the assembly it is plugged into turns with it as well.

This may sound dumb, but am I to hold that piece that is also turning as well in place, while simultaneously loosening the 10mm nut?

I have attempted to loosen the 10mm nut, but it is so stiff that the nut itself has actually bent.

Also, when I turned it a bit, the clutch line turned with it (not good).

How the hell am I supposed to get this loosened?
 

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Be very careful not to damage the hard line. Use a flare nut wrench to avoid rounding off the nut.
Use lots of pb blaster and work the nut back and forth to break the nut free from the hardline, then loosen it all the way.
Get this loosened before you remove the 2 12mm bolts.


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Be very careful not to damage the hard line. Use a flare nut wrench to avoid rounding off the nut.
Use lots of pb blaster and work the nut back and forth to break the nut free from the hardline, then loosen it all the way.
Get this loosened before you remove the 2 12mm bolts.


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Yup me and modrid can tell you what happens when you do round off that nut.
 

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Be very careful not to damage the hard line. Use a flare nut wrench to avoid rounding off the nut.
Use lots of pb blaster and work the nut back and forth to break the nut free from the hardline, then loosen it all the way.
Get this loosened before you remove the 2 12mm bolts.


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Exactly, and the "flare nut" wrenches are sometimes referred to as "line wrenches", depending on the mechanic you're talking to!
 

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I ended up replacing the entire hardine set from the master cylinder on. Shockingly not expensive. My car is from up North, so all the connections were corroded. Me and faided never even got my slave open. I have to replace the entire thing.


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Discussion Starter #8
I ended up buying the full K-Tuned master/slave kit. From what I read, the hardline is eliminated with the new kit anyway, though I should still invest in some of those wrenches.
 

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I would have done the same, but I didn't want to replace the master and slave at the time. I asked about a line that had reg connections instead of 90* ones, but never heard back.


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Hey guys, is removing the CDV actually worth it? I keep hopping out of my AP1 (no delay valve) and getting in my '13 Si and its like learning to drive stick again its so different.. Will removing it make it feel more like an old-school setup?
 

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Hey guys, is removing the CDV actually worth it? I keep hopping out of my AP1 (no delay valve) and getting in my '13 Si and its like learning to drive stick again its so different.. Will removing it make it feel more like an old-school setup?
Removing the CDV will not drastically change the "feel" of the clutch pedal, but an upgrade Master Cylinder will. One that eliminates the Damper Diaphragm from the factory master cylinder will give you a more direct pedal feel and likely make it very comparable to your AP1.
 

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does the ktuned master fall into the upgrade category? so theres a clutch delay valve and a damper as well? im seriously considering getting the k tuned kit this winter. ive had my car a year and i still cant seem shift like im used to in the older civics ive owned.
 

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does the ktuned master fall into the upgrade category? so theres a clutch delay valve and a damper as well? im seriously considering getting the k tuned kit this winter. ive had my car a year and i still cant seem shift like im used to in the older civics ive owned.
Yeah a dampener in the CMC and the CDV in tje slave. Ive been running the sirimoto n1 kit from procivic and have been loving it. Was an instant night and day difference in how the car felt.
 
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