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Discussion Starter #1
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TOOLS USED:
· Jack
· Jack Stands x2
· Small scrap of 2x4 no more than 12 inches long (if needed: see optional step photo)
· Gloves (optional but highly recommended)
· Breaker bar (optional but highly recommended)
· Silicon spray (optional but highly recommended)
· Portable (hand-held) engine/shop light (optional but highly recommended)
· Adjustable wrench
· 17mm socket
· 19mm socket
· Socket wrench
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STEP 1: Jack your car up in front and place one jack stand on each side of the car (see photo above)
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STEP 2: Locate the rear motor mount near the backside of the front passenger wheel and use the 17mm socket to remove 7 total bolts. I would suggest using a breaker bar to break the bolts loose and then use your socket wrench to remove the bolts. You will be much happier! (see photo above)
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Here is a photo of all pieces removed and sitting next to the new rear motor mount (see photo above)
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The two above photos show the stock rear motor mount completely removed. The second of the two photos show where the plate of the rear motor mount bolts to the backside of the engine.
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STEP 3: Spray the new motor mount liberally with silicon spray, you will be so happy you did!, and maneuver into position. Replace the really long bolt but leave it loose for positioning with the plate when all components are in place. Make sure to put this in place first and that the word “Top” etched on the motor mount faces up towards the top of the engine! (see photo above)
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OPTIONAL STEP: I found that when I had to break loose the stock bolts, the engine fell a little. So to help bring the engine up, I used a jack and small 2x4 scrap piece to push the engine up (see photo above)
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STEP 4: Align rear motor mount with the plate and put all but two stock bolts back into place. Two things with this step: 1. make sure to connect the new plate to the new motor mount and 2. insert the new bolt loosely BEFORE bolting the plate onto the engine (see photo above)
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The above photo is everything installed and tightened; the new bolt requires a 19mm socket and the use of an adjustable wrench to properly tighten. I suggest using the breaker bar to tighten the bolts a little tighter past the tightness of using just a socket wrench. Total install time was about 1 hour. Enjoy!
 

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Great DIY! How's it feel since the install? Can't wait to get new mounts for mine, but need to get a new job first lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The first time I drove the car after installing the mount it was insane! You can feel everything the engine and exhaust do to the car. The rattle of the DP did not stop completely. However, after driving the car for about a week now, the vibrations have considerably died down and the DP only rattles now when the car is cold. After driving the car to temperature, the DP does not rattle. :shrug:
 

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i installed mine today and had to bend the mount brackets outwards a little because i could not slid it in between the mount, nothing a table vice grip couldn't handle. then it fit fine
 

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Recently installed my RMM. At low RPMs/idling there are a lot more vibrations which gets annoying but, overall the car feels a lot tighter and faster.
 

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Is everyone getting the U62A or the U70A?
 

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Is everyone getting the U62A or the U70A?
Depends if you are looking for the street or weekend warrior. Eitherway, their will be vibrations in the lower rpm and when AC is on.
 

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there are only two load-bearing engine mounts on our cars, the other two are torque mounts designed to control engine movement. however, the torque mounts allow a large amount of movement during acceleration and shifting, due to a soft rubber compound and a void in the mount itself. the hasport mount uses a solid (no void) urethane material in place of the rubber. the result is less engine movement at the expense of added vibrations into the cabin.

I have the softest one they offer (62a), and while I feel it to be a great improvement, there is still an excessive amount of movement for my liking. short of going full stiff on both top and bottom torque mounts (and adding a fully unacceptable level of vibration for a DD), I feel that engine movement will never be fully controlled without using a third load-bearing engine mount. I believe Vit made reference to this, saying something about trying to add a third mount similar to an 8th gen.
 

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there are only two load-bearing engine mounts on our cars, the other two are torque mounts designed to control engine movement. however, the torque mounts allow a large amount of movement during acceleration and shifting, due to a soft rubber compound and a void in the mount itself. the hasport mount uses a solid (no void) urethane material in place of the rubber. the result is less engine movement at the expense of added vibrations into the cabin.

I have the softest one they offer (62a), and while I feel it to be a great improvement, there is still an excessive amount of movement for my liking. short of going full stiff on both top and bottom torque mounts (and adding a fully unacceptable level of vibration for a DD), I feel that engine movement will never be fully controlled without using a third load-bearing engine mount. I believe Vit made reference to this, saying something about trying to add a third mount similar to an 8th gen.
Interestingly enough, your car felt MUCH better while shifting and cruising at low speeds than my car does. The engine movement on this car with the stock mount is very noticeable, to the point where you have to engage the clutch fast enough before the car starts jerking back and forth.
 

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I have the rear motor mount. I wonder if it's worth it to install the other mounts as well.
 

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I have the 62 and I'm considering taking it back off. The vibration wasn't bad without AC but with it, is really really bad.
Give it two weeks if you can. It will always have some vibration with the A/C on, (usually it's only after a cold start where it's annoying) but the driving experience is well worth it.
 

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Give it two weeks if you can. It will always have some vibration with the A/C on, (usually it's only after a cold start where it's annoying) but the driving experience is well worth it.

Agreed. I have the 70a and the driving experience is much better IMO. I will put up with the vibration.
 

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Agreed. I have the 70a and the driving experience is much better IMO. I will put up with the vibration.
Absolutely. I would not go back without some great reluctance.

Nobody wants to have to explain to new passengers why your nearly brand new car is rattling, but the shifting with the OEM RMM is just so awful... The rev-hang is bad enough.

does anyone know what torque to set these bolts to?
Just tighten it to what you can. I haven't heard anyone with issues.

If that doesn't work for you, then add some blue loctite and you'll definitely be golden.
 

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I agree, if i was going to do it again (had Avid 62a all around for my ep3 before), i would go 70a, but wife will hate it big time...lol. Either you go hard or don't do anything at all.
 
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