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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
***WIRE DIAGRAMS AND PINOUTS WILL BE POSTED SOON***


I want to start this off with saying, if you plan to do a navigation swap into a non-navigation civic, you will really need some technical knowledge on wiring and electrical work!
After my countless hours of research day and night I had finally came to the conclusion that this swap IS possible, however I believe that I would possibly be the first to do it and would basically have to do this without any help or past experience. The help that I had seeked for; either 100% doubted that this could be done or just completely ignored it. I am not going to mention any names of this but there is a person that I was referred to in the “eBay Community” that could possibly fabricate me a custom harness for the swap or even give me some technical advice; let’s just say that this was a failed attempt to reach out to someone I thought could help whom I would never refer anyone to. (maybe my expectations were too high). My background of this knowledge is that I have training in advanced electronics and theory. I am a Biomedical Equipment Technician. Also, I have installed over 100 car stereos.

Time to complete:
1) 1-2days ------ 2-3 days (if you want the job to look extremely clean)


Items needed to perform swap:
1) Car panel removers
2) Screwdriver (phillps)
3) 10mm ratchet
4) 8mm ratchet
5) Wire cutters
6) Wire stripers (VERY SHARP PAIR!)
7) Extra Wire
8) Electrical tape
9) Sand Paper
10) Navigation Head Unit - P/N: 39100-TS9-A62
11) Cord Assy., HDMI-A – P/N: 39116-TK8-A01 (this is from a 2014-2015 Odyssey)
12) Antenna Assy., GPS – P/N: 39835-TR3-A21
13) HDMI/USB Cord Assy – P/N: 39155-T3R-A10 (will be found as an Acura part)
14) One part number that I could not find is the actual container where the HDMI/USB/Cigarette lighter inputs are. When I bought the GPS unit the guy sent this as well.

So you have knowledge, parts, and now trust my information as valid. First things first make your self very comfortable with the schematics, wire diagrams and pinouts I post here. Try to really understand and know what every wire means, where each wire goes, the colors of each wire, what each wire might be carrying. One of the first things I did was map each wire/connector that may need to be cut, stripped, and re-connected to a separate connector that came with the navi unit I purchased. I purchased my navi unit from a totaled 2014 Si, and made sure that before receiving the unit that it was going to come with all stock connectors. If you do not have these connectors prepare yourself for an extremely difficult time (you will need a new dash harness P/N: 32117-TS9-A12) and honestly if I would’ve had to do this I wouldn’t have gave up.

Step 1) – Removal of old head unit
• Remove storage container just below the climate control switches (there are two screws located on the left and right inside of the container when it flips down) after removing these two screws it should just pop right off with the panel remover.
• There will be two screws to the left and right that are just below the climate control switches/knobs (they were hidden behind the storage container prior)
• Next there will be 2 8mm bolts located inside on the bottom side of the existing head unit. They may either be removed with an 8mm or screwdriver.
• The head unit now should just pop right off with the panel remover be sure not to apply too much pressure or you risk denting your dash and other interior panels
• Remove old connectors from climate control, hazard switch, and all from the backside of the old head unit. (now might be a better time if any to get that red JDM hazard switch you’ve been wanting!!!)
• Place old head unit in garbage, because that’s where it belongs

Step 3) – The hard part (well hopefully I make it easy for you)
• You should now be looking at (1) connector for the hazard switch, (1) connector for the climate control, and (5) connectors for the stock head unit.
• Here they are listed from left to right: (your stock head unit)
o Main (24 pin)
o Sub/Amp (8 pin)
o HFL/AUX (20 pin)
o iMID/SH_BUS/GA_BUS (14 pin)
o AM/FM antenna (3 pin)

• I will call each by their respective pin count.

• The 24 pin harness is almost plug and play
o You will need to remove a metal pin and wire from the 24 pin harness that came with the Navi unit.
o I removed pin 11 just because that will be the one that we will be in need of using
o So pin 11 on the Navi unit is for the stereo controls located on the left of the steering wheel.
o We will need to tap into a wire on your iMID display.
o Remove your dash, this can be as easy or as hard as you make it but I figure that if you are that interested in doing this than you probably should know how to remove the dashboard.
o On your iMID display there should be a 32 pin harness.
o Remove this harness.
o Cut the wire from pin 23 and make sure you leave 1-1.5” of wire to work with. You could also add some length if need be.
o You will need to cut some wire long enough to be wired neatly from your iMID display to your new Navi unit.
o The first thing I did was cut, strip, twist, and tape this new long piece the the two ends of the original. So you basically are joining 3 wires together.
o The metal pin and wire that you removed from pin 11 of the 24 pin connector provided with your Navi unit will now be used. You will now route the new long piece of wire to the Navi unit and do your best of inserting the pin into the original 24 pin harness.
o You may have a trial and error here due to the pins not being the easiest thing to remove and insert.

• The 8 pin harness is plug and play

• The 20 pin harness:
o Remove your glove box, this can be done by squeezing the left and right tabs holding it in place
o There should be a small black box located up top when looking where your glove box is.
o There will be a harness located here as well, you will need to cut a 2” piece of wire
o You will then cut the wires located in pins (X) and (X) and join them together using the 2” piece of wire stated before.
o This is for your steering wheel Navi/HFT controls
o These steps are for the parking break switch.
o This is located at pin 11 of this connector.
o You will need another metal pin which can be taken from any connector not being used.
o This wire will be routed from pin 11 on the Navi unit to a green wire located under your e-brake. This should not require any splicing because the connector currently on the e-brake has room to just but a small amount of wire in. This may be done however you would like.

• The 14 pin connector is the more difficult portion of this, you will want to pay VERY VERY close attention and follow this STEP BY STEP.
o You will need to cut the 14 pin connector from your dash harness, I left about 1.5 inches of wire left on the connector just in case things got bad and didn’t work. So I will leave that up to you on whether you want to do this or not.
o After cutting this connector you will most likely want to add about 2 inches of length on each of these wires just to give yourself some space when making your “custom” wire harness by stripping, twisting and taping some on as well as striping the other end of the added length.
o C3 on the 14 pin is basically a ground for C1, C2, C7, and C8 --- the same goes for C4 on the 14 pin is a ground for C11 and C12. So you will know that these two groups WILL need to stay together.
o The configuration of the new harness is a 12 pin and a completely different layout and harness style. I will explain below.
o C2 is the ground for C3, C4, C9, and C10 --- and C2 is the ground for C1 and C7.
o You will need to match these wires to the pinouts provided and join them
o You will be left with 2 wires that are not used on the new connector. Hence 14 pin to a 12 pin connecter. I suggest either taping or crimping an electrical blocker on them.

• The 3 pin harness is plug and play

Step 4) - Now we will be discussing the new connectors/wires/harnesses you will be putting into your car.
1) The HDMI Cord
2) The USB Cord
3) The GPS Antenna

• (1) The HDMI Cord:
o We will start with the cord from the Odyssey. (39116-TK8-A01)
o The tabs will need to be sanded down a little bit for fitment of the HDMI input.
o I would sand down little by little, test fitting every now and then into the tray from the 2014 Civic.
o When you achieve the perfect fit, you will insert it into the tray.
o Now we will use the cord from the Acura. (39155-T3R-A10)
o This cord will connect to the Odyssey part and be routed to the bad of your stereo. There is only one black input on the back of the Navi unit and this will be where the HDMI cord is inserted.

• (2) The USB cord(s):
o The Acura part (39155-T3R-A10) should have came with one cord with a grey end and one with a green end.
o They will correspond with the inputs on the back of the Navi unit.
o The green one will be routed to the 2014 Civic tray next to the HDMI input.
o The grey one is for the USB in your arm rest. This could be optional if you do feel you don’t need it. But it would bother me so much that there is USB input in there and it is not functional.
o Where this HDMI/USB tray sits, you will use the connector for the one that is routed from your iMID display to the center console. You will disconnect this and connect your new grey wire in the direction of the USB cable in the arm rest.

• (3) The GPS Antenna:
o This is a fairly simple task that I would recommend doing while the Dash is ripped apart.
o The antenna is going to be mounted underneath your dash.
o The antenna will come with the mounting plate but not the screws, so you will have to provide these.
o It is mounted up near the iMID display to the right a little. And the cord will get routed from here to the back of your new Navi unit. There is a small hole where you can see the old USB cable being routed through from the iMID unit. (I removed this USB cable completely.

I hope that you were able to complete this swap. If you have ANY question at all about doing this or any other wiring in your Civic just drop me a message and will get back to you whenever I can. I would also like to say **** the haters and everyone that doubted me saying that this is impossible. Well I am proof that it is possible and I think that anyone that has a small amount of knowledge can do this as well.

I would like to thank Chris Sutton and College Hills Honda Service Center for their provided support and knowledge!
 

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Wow, this is incredible...That seems like quite the endeavor, especially with no references. Great work! Does everything function as its supposed to? Is any iMid functionality lost? Do you have any pictures or video of it in action?

This upgrade would definitely be worth while I think provided everything actually works! I have a 13 without navigation and really feel that factory is the way to go when it comes to systems like these. Aftermarket navigation stereos have just never impressed me in terms of UI and usability. I was going to go with the kit from the aforementioned ebayer, but as long as everything is functional in this upgrade, I think I am more than capable of tackling it my self.

Again, thank you for your effort and for providing such detailed instructions!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm glad you appreciate it man! I'm willing to help anyone out with this swap. I've decided against posting the schematics here due to them being from a source that forbids such thing. But if they happen to land in your email......lol

Everything functions perfectly and 100%. The only thing I guess that I am sort of questioning; what if tomorrow I decided to trade in my car, my car now has factory GPS and to the typical sales person/tech/sales manager it was factory installed. But my VIN states otherwise that it is not a navi model, would doing the upgrade I did increase my value? Or not at all?

Just let me know if you become interested and I will do my best to help out.

My number is 254-716-3145.
 

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I looked into doing this. there is a seller on ebay that sells all the oem stuff for $800 with plug and play harnesses. I posted on here asking if he was legit and nobody seems to have bought a nav unit from him
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know this eBay seller you are speaking of. And they may be the one that I have mentioned above. I will mostly get shat on for talking down on a person that is so highly looked upon in the Honda/Acura OEM Navigation community (lol). But I would not recommend going to this person. I offered to pay for a custom harness or even for the technical advice of said eBay seller but the answers I got were vague, unanswered and had no answer to my very simple questions. I was even told by this person that this swap would/could not be possible without some serious issues ahead of me.

Not only did I have 0 issues but I was able to get everything working. So you can take from my experience or from another members.

The positive of going with them though might be the lower price points of the navi units.

I do want you to remember that the Navi unit put into my car was not even an option/offered for the year of my 9th gen which may have been the reason (eBay seller) would have been so hesitant in helping me. This in mind though. I still doubt his abilities. So I will end this in saying if you want help with putting a 2014-15 Navigation/Inforainment Head Unit into your 2012-2013 9th gen let me know and I will provide you with all of the knowledge necessary to pull it off.
 

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Two BIG thumbs up for taking this on!

While I don't own a 9th, this would have been a mod I'd be interested in tackling if I did. I do however, have several of the parts you mention installed in my 8th gen to give it a clean USB & HDMI connection.

In your items needed to perform this swap, #14 is part # 77293-TR6-C71ZA.
 

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I wish I saw this earlier. I have 2012 and bought everything for 13 swap. I've dealt with that ebay guy twice. English not so good. Lol told me the same thing about 14 swap. I did sell my exl with Navi even though I didn't buy it that way and I got more for the car when I got my si.
 

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Im looking at doing this swap into my '13 si non-nav as well. I found a couple navigation head units on ebay and the sellers say "No Unlock Code" in the descriptions of these. What does that mean? Am I able to still do this?
 

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I have been looking for this information for weeks. Props to the OP.
I bought a 2013 Touring model which already has navi but I want to upgrade to the new system.

Is there anything on the list that would not be needed because I already have nav?

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
 

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for the '12 i got the navi to work the only thing that disappeared was the radio information on the top ribbon of the imid display. the '12 has different dash display, the traditional double din shape. and the wiring is different, not all the features are included with the '12 version like no backup camera. there is a website that they charge $20 for like 24 hours of access, they have very detailed schematics and wiring pin out diagrams.
 

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I am putting in a oem nav unit from a 2015 Si to my 2013 EX. I installed the gps antenna under the dash. Then installed the new nav unit. One connector from the car harness had no place to plug in on the Nav unit. Other than that is booted up put in the security code and everything seems to work except the volume even at full 40 isn't all that loud. I have included the plug on the harness I could plug in and the back of the nav unit.
 

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I had the same problem with my civic 13 your problem is that you buy the incorrect radio the si have amplifier and the 13 ex no the model of the radio is 9xc0 will work nice and volumen normaly
 

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I already installed the my problem is that i want to move the camera to the center console i want to remove from the i-mid and the bluetooth phone call control does not work for me i have Civic 13 EX
 

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Does the 9xc0 have navigation. When I tested my 2015 9c6 oem nav radio in the car it moved the backup camera to the center screen and the turn direction next showed up in the imid.
 

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WIRE DIAGRAMS AND PINOUTS WILL BE POSTED SOON


I want to start this off with saying, if you plan to do a navigation swap into a non-navigation civic, you will really need some technical knowledge on wiring and electrical work!
After my countless hours of research day and night I had finally came to the conclusion that this swap IS possible, however I believe that I would possibly be the first to do it and would basically have to do this without any help or past experience. The help that I had seeked for; either 100% doubted that this could be done or just completely ignored it. I am not going to mention any names of this but there is a person that I was referred to in the “eBay Community” that could possibly fabricate me a custom harness for the swap or even give me some technical advice; let’s just say that this was a failed attempt to reach out to someone I thought could help whom I would never refer anyone to. (maybe my expectations were too high). My background of this knowledge is that I have training in advanced electronics and theory. I am a Biomedical Equipment Technician. Also, I have installed over 100 car stereos.

Time to complete:
1) 1-2days ------ 2-3 days (if you want the job to look extremely clean)


Items needed to perform swap:
1) Car panel removers
2) Screwdriver (phillps)
3) 10mm ratchet
4) 8mm ratchet
5) Wire cutters
6) Wire stripers (VERY SHARP PAIR!)
7) Extra Wire
8) Electrical tape
9) Sand Paper
10) Navigation Head Unit - P/N: 39100-TS9-A62
11) Cord Assy., HDMI-A – P/N: 39116-TK8-A01 (this is from a 2014-2015 Odyssey)
12) Antenna Assy., GPS – P/N: 39835-TR3-A21
13) HDMI/USB Cord Assy – P/N: 39155-T3R-A10 (will be found as an Acura part)
14) One part number that I could not find is the actual container where the HDMI/USB/Cigarette lighter inputs are. When I bought the GPS unit the guy sent this as well.

So you have knowledge, parts, and now trust my information as valid. First things first make your self very comfortable with the schematics, wire diagrams and pinouts I post here. Try to really understand and know what every wire means, where each wire goes, the colors of each wire, what each wire might be carrying. One of the first things I did was map each wire/connector that may need to be cut, stripped, and re-connected to a separate connector that came with the navi unit I purchased. I purchased my navi unit from a totaled 2014 Si, and made sure that before receiving the unit that it was going to come with all stock connectors. If you do not have these connectors prepare yourself for an extremely difficult time (you will need a new dash harness P/N: 32117-TS9-A12) and honestly if I would’ve had to do this I wouldn’t have gave up.

Step 1) – Removal of old head unit
• Remove storage container just below the climate control switches (there are two screws located on the left and right inside of the container when it flips down) after removing these two screws it should just pop right off with the panel remover.
• There will be two screws to the left and right that are just below the climate control switches/knobs (they were hidden behind the storage container prior)
• Next there will be 2 8mm bolts located inside on the bottom side of the existing head unit. They may either be removed with an 8mm or screwdriver.
• The head unit now should just pop right off with the panel remover be sure not to apply too much pressure or you risk denting your dash and other interior panels
• Remove old connectors from climate control, hazard switch, and all from the backside of the old head unit. (now might be a better time if any to get that red JDM hazard switch you’ve been wanting!!!)
• Place old head unit in garbage, because that’s where it belongs

Step 3) – The hard part (well hopefully I make it easy for you)
• You should now be looking at (1) connector for the hazard switch, (1) connector for the climate control, and (5) connectors for the stock head unit.
• Here they are listed from left to right: (your stock head unit)
o Main (24 pin)
o Sub/Amp (8 pin)
o HFL/AUX (20 pin)
o iMID/SH_BUS/GA_BUS (14 pin)
o AM/FM antenna (3 pin)

• I will call each by their respective pin count.

• The 24 pin harness is almost plug and play
o You will need to remove a metal pin and wire from the 24 pin harness that came with the Navi unit.
o I removed pin 11 just because that will be the one that we will be in need of using
o So pin 11 on the Navi unit is for the stereo controls located on the left of the steering wheel.
o We will need to tap into a wire on your iMID display.
o Remove your dash, this can be as easy or as hard as you make it but I figure that if you are that interested in doing this than you probably should know how to remove the dashboard.
o On your iMID display there should be a 32 pin harness.
o Remove this harness.
o Cut the wire from pin 23 and make sure you leave 1-1.5” of wire to work with. You could also add some length if need be.
o You will need to cut some wire long enough to be wired neatly from your iMID display to your new Navi unit.
o The first thing I did was cut, strip, twist, and tape this new long piece the the two ends of the original. So you basically are joining 3 wires together.
o The metal pin and wire that you removed from pin 11 of the 24 pin connector provided with your Navi unit will now be used. You will now route the new long piece of wire to the Navi unit and do your best of inserting the pin into the original 24 pin harness.
o You may have a trial and error here due to the pins not being the easiest thing to remove and insert.

• The 8 pin harness is plug and play

• The 20 pin harness:
o Remove your glove box, this can be done by squeezing the left and right tabs holding it in place
o There should be a small black box located up top when looking where your glove box is.
o There will be a harness located here as well, you will need to cut a 2” piece of wire
o You will then cut the wires located in pins (X) and (X) and join them together using the 2” piece of wire stated before.
o This is for your steering wheel Navi/HFT controls
o These steps are for the parking break switch.
o This is located at pin 11 of this connector.
o You will need another metal pin which can be taken from any connector not being used.
o This wire will be routed from pin 11 on the Navi unit to a green wire located under your e-brake. This should not require any splicing because the connector currently on the e-brake has room to just but a small amount of wire in. This may be done however you would like.

• The 14 pin connector is the more difficult portion of this, you will want to pay VERY VERY close attention and follow this STEP BY STEP.
o You will need to cut the 14 pin connector from your dash harness, I left about 1.5 inches of wire left on the connector just in case things got bad and didn’t work. So I will leave that up to you on whether you want to do this or not.
o After cutting this connector you will most likely want to add about 2 inches of length on each of these wires just to give yourself some space when making your “custom” wire harness by stripping, twisting and taping some on as well as striping the other end of the added length.
o C3 on the 14 pin is basically a ground for C1, C2, C7, and C8 --- the same goes for C4 on the 14 pin is a ground for C11 and C12. So you will know that these two groups WILL need to stay together.
o The configuration of the new harness is a 12 pin and a completely different layout and harness style. I will explain below.
o C2 is the ground for C3, C4, C9, and C10 --- and C2 is the ground for C1 and C7.
o You will need to match these wires to the pinouts provided and join them
o You will be left with 2 wires that are not used on the new connector. Hence 14 pin to a 12 pin connecter. I suggest either taping or crimping an electrical blocker on them.

• The 3 pin harness is plug and play

Step 4) - Now we will be discussing the new connectors/wires/harnesses you will be putting into your car.
1) The HDMI Cord
2) The USB Cord
3) The GPS Antenna

• (1) The HDMI Cord:
o We will start with the cord from the Odyssey. (39116-TK8-A01)
o The tabs will need to be sanded down a little bit for fitment of the HDMI input.
o I would sand down little by little, test fitting every now and then into the tray from the 2014 Civic.
o When you achieve the perfect fit, you will insert it into the tray.
o Now we will use the cord from the Acura. (39155-T3R-A10)
o This cord will connect to the Odyssey part and be routed to the bad of your stereo. There is only one black input on the back of the Navi unit and this will be where the HDMI cord is inserted.

• (2) The USB cord(s):
o The Acura part (39155-T3R-A10) should have came with one cord with a grey end and one with a green end.
o They will correspond with the inputs on the back of the Navi unit.
o The green one will be routed to the 2014 Civic tray next to the HDMI input.
o The grey one is for the USB in your arm rest. This could be optional if you do feel you don’t need it. But it would bother me so much that there is USB input in there and it is not functional.
o Where this HDMI/USB tray sits, you will use the connector for the one that is routed from your iMID display to the center console. You will disconnect this and connect your new grey wire in the direction of the USB cable in the arm rest.

• (3) The GPS Antenna:
o This is a fairly simple task that I would recommend doing while the Dash is ripped apart.
o The antenna is going to be mounted underneath your dash.
o The antenna will come with the mounting plate but not the screws, so you will have to provide these.
o It is mounted up near the iMID display to the right a little. And the cord will get routed from here to the back of your new Navi unit. There is a small hole where you can see the old USB cable being routed through from the iMID unit. (I removed this USB cable completely.

I hope that you were able to complete this swap. If you have ANY question at all about doing this or any other wiring in your Civic just drop me a message and will get back to you whenever I can. I would also like to say **** the haters and everyone that doubted me saying that this is impossible. Well I am proof that it is possible and I think that anyone that has a small amount of knowledge can do this as well.

I would like to thank Chris Sutton and College Hills Honda Service Center for their provided support and knowledge!
@jdmasf_ck
please can you or anyone tell me the part of the small black box (bluetooth) control in the glove box what cable we have to cut thank
 
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