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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys so just wanted to start out by saying This is my 3rd Honda Civic. I bought the 2014 Civic Si W/HPT in September. Couldn't be happier. As far as DIY, this is the first thing I've done. I've never done any Plasti-dipping or spray tinting before so I'm a Novice at this.

Time: First run-3-4 hours
Second run 2 1/2 hours

Difficulty: 5
(1-10, 10 being the hardest)

Cost: 50-100$

Where Did i get my supplies: All at AutoZone

Here are my Supplies
1. Rust-Oleum Wax & tar remover
2. Rust-OleumPeel Coat Matte Black
3.Rust-Oleum Lens tint
4. Meguiars Rubbing Compound
5. 2" Orange Polymer Tape
6. Eagle One Wipe & Shine Quick Detailing Spray
7. Wooden Skewer(or Toothpick)
8. Sharp Razor blade
9. Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel
10. 2000 Grain Sandpaper(or Green kitchen Scouring pad)

And here is the What it looked like before
View attachment 255929

Anyways I started off by Cleaning All dust and dirt off The emblem and tail lights using Eagle One Wipe & Shine Quick Detailing spray.This helped my not get things to wet and have to worry about waiting to dry.

After that I used Rust-Oleum Wax & Tar Remover on My Honda Emblem and Tail Lights. I figured any wax would prevent and wreck some of the coats. Also I used the Blue Paper towels. They don't leave lint like the white ones(which i learned the hard way)...

After that I used WET 2000 Grain sand paper to VERY GENTLY scratch the tail lights. NOT the emblem. The Rubber coat on the emblem will hold itself. The reason you are making MINOR scratches on the tail lights is to give the spray tint a more porous surface to stick to. You want to make sure either you are spraying your tailights with water or keep pouring water on your sand paper.

NOTE: you can also use a green scrubbing pad found in your kitchen. Actually works just as well.

Following that I dried off my tail lights and allowed them to air dry for 10 minutes as well.

Then i took Orange Polymer tape.(you can use blue painters tape as well just make sure that it is paint friendly)and started taping over the emblem completely. Make sure when you do it this way that you are making it tight but also pushing deep in every crevice and making sure you are pretty much molding the tape to the emblem and trunk.NO SPACING!!!

View attachment 255977

After you tape that down take a SHARP razor blade and gently outline the emblem. Not too Gently where you don't cut the tape and not to hard where you scratch the paint.

After you're done with that you will gently peel away the tape that is ON the emblem and not the tape on the trunk. You want to make sure you have as little trunk showing.

Now you want to take the tape and tape around the tail lights. When i do this I make sure that the tape goes in the spacing between the tail light and the painted parts of the car as much as possible. Remember you have lights on your trunk so don't forget those as well.

Now this is your choice for customizing but I decided to keep the white on my lights white. IF you decide to do the same, look at your tail lights real close for a second. you will see where it turns from the red to the white there is a small indention. use that!!! take your tape and just place it over that white part. after you've done that press deep on the tail showing the outline from that indention on your tape. Now take a razor blade and follow that line around. It will go onto the side of your light. When you are done cutting peel the part thats NOT on the white.

Now Take some paper, Preferably brown wrapping paper is what i used on my second run but for my first one i used coupons and newspaper lol. Make sure than you tape up everything. When it comes spraying out of the can, that mist can go anywhere. On my first run i got it all on my back windows and side doors and spent 25 minutes rubbing it off with rubbing alcohol and paper towels. So make sure that from the top of your rear window down is cover and that you tape up any overlays this is a while i'm spraying picture but this is how it should sort of look View attachment 255993

So now for the good stuff. To start off with our emblem take your Rust-Oleum Peel Coat and shake it for a good minute you want to mix up all the contents inside. After you've shaken it enough stand off to the side somewhere and spray for about 5 seconds to get it going. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A PAPER TOWEL HANDY!!!!! after everytime you spray it, you'll need to clean off the nozzle and a lot of excess likes to leak out. Now from left to right with about an inch and a half overlap each time slowly spray 8-12" away. Don't go too slow or fast. if you go to fast, It won't leave a good layer, If you go too slow, It'll cause the rubber(paint) to run down. after that first coat give about 5 minutes to dry. What you just did was make a first coat but not only that, you created a very porous first coat so on your next run, it'll stick extremely well :D

Now after 5 minutes coat it 4-5 times and on your last coat make it a medium thickness. Allow this to dry for 20 minutes. DO NOT WASH FOR 24 HOURS!
now your emblem should look like this IMG_4479.jpg

Now to Spray tint your headlights shake up your can of Rust-Oleum Lens Tint for a good minute. Pay close attention to which way the wind is blowing if doing this outdoors.
When you are spray this can it is important that you shake often to keep the mixture inside. Make sure you are 10-16" away from your tail lights and slowly go back and forth when spraying and never stopping on one stop. Make sure that with each stroke you are overlapping about 75 from the last stroke. Keep in mind how many strokes you did on one tail light so you can try to keep them both the same tint. Make sure that your first coat is on just enough that you can slightly see a small change in color. The picture with the car all taped up was the first coat. You can compare it with the first picture to see the slight difference..

Now depending on the the Temp and Humidity outside really will depend on your dry to recoat times. It was 80 outside, sunny and less humidity so my dry times were about 25-30 minutes a piece. But if it's colder expect longer times and if it's more humid, expect longer times as well.

Now for your next few coats make sure to WIPE OFF THE TIP of the can everytime. and shake! I cannot express enough how important it is to SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE. Oh another great thing about this can is that you can spray from any angle EVEN UPSIDE DOWN! and it sprays just as well!
You will coat it up to three more times. Anymore than 3 and it becomes hard to see your Brake lights during the day. I ended up doing a couple extra coats on my second run but for now, I'll show you between the coats and the fourth coat.

here is my second coat.

here is my third coat

Now let is dry for a good hour. make sure it is completely dry to the touch and that there are no runs. if there are runs, You need to sand it out let it dry wait a day and do it again. Now after an hour SLIGHTLY wet sand the lenses with 2000 grain sand just to smooth out alot of the little imperfections. Right now it's gonna look like crap. but don't worry. Just make sure you don't over sand and remove some layers of tint!

After you've let that dry for a good 20 minutes wipe away all the debris or any dust that may have gotten on your lens's. Now you're gonna take your Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel and shake it up for another good minute. stand another good 10-16' away again and slightly spray with a little overlap on each. Now Keep in mind you are following the same rules as you were with the tint spray. Now with this Enamel you only have to wait a good 5 minutes between coats. I did 4 coats of enamel. So the choice is yours.

After I let my Last coat dry for an hour I took my 2000 grain sandpaper and wet sanded it very slightly again. Just to get out the final imperfections. Then I took a Mechanic towel and dried off the lenses then allowed them to sit for 30 minutes to air dry completely. Then I took two polishing towels I put a liberal amount of the Mequiars Rubbing Compound on one of them and Mr. Myagi the hell out of the lenses. I just rubbed it in a circular motion for a good 5 minutes on each lens. DO NOT LET DRY! After I rubbed it in I took my other Polishing towel and just polished out all the compound until you couldn't visibly see any white residue. I did this about 3 more times, waiting 20 minutes between each time just to shine up my lights and make them less Matte Black.

After I was finished I took off all the tape and paper and disposed of it properly. Now around my Honda Emblem, there was still some of the rubber on my paint. All I had to do was take my wooden skewer(or toothpick) and just gently rub it off to get a nice clean edge around the Emblem.

Here is a picture before I did my Enamel, final sanding and mequiars compound. This is only 4 coats as well so you can get a judgment of it.


Now feel around your car if it feel like sandy in some places take a towel and some rubbing alcohol and rub it off. It'll come out black if it is overspray.

Now here it is after my clear coat. Sorry if it looks hazy, it's really not its just moist outside and night time but it is much darker

and here it is with the Tail lights on, NOT BREAKING


Thanks guys for Reading! Any input on MY first job is greatly appreciated. Like I said I've never done this before and learned from lots of research. Thanks for having me hear at 9thGenCivic! Have a Great day!

18 Posts
You can save yourself a world of taping by removing the trunk inside cover and pushing on the two pins that hold the emblem in place from inside the trunk lid. Pops right out. Once you've done whatever you want to the emblem it pops right back in place.

256 Posts
honestly, I used VHT nite shades on my third brake light on my spoiler and followed a previous DIY and I'll be honest, I like the finish that one showed.

Not very convinced on the rustoleums product. JS

256 Posts
I used the Rustoleums version of Nightshade and it looks awesome IMO. Here's a pic
It looks clean. Just not a fan of the real dark taillights. Try rubbing some meguiars compound on it and il give you a kick ass gloss finish

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