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I wanted to make this DIY since there were none for a full install with speaker replacements and sub running to an amp. I replaced the factory radio in my Si with a double din unit. The front speakers were replaced with new components. The rears were replaced with coaxial speakers.

First off is the removal of the rear deck. The rear can only be accessed once the sides with the curtain airbags are removed. After that, there are 4 plastic pins that hold the rear deck on. 2 green and 2 beige. I installed Infinity KAPPA 62.9i in the rears. I like these speakers because they come with a little box that allows for easy speaker wire hookup. I mounted them to the metal in the trunk with double sided tape. Ran the wires down behind the carpet and to the amp.







The Front speakers are accessed by removing the doors. I had the hardest time because it couldn't find any screws but i knew they were there somewhere. You must remove the silver hand piece by gently pulling until the clips pop off. Once that is removed, you can access the 3 screws holding the door on. After that, just pop a bunch of clips off going around the door and off lifts the door. I replaced the front speakers with Infinity KAPPA 60.9CS components. Both the fronts and rears are considered 6-3/4" speakers but can also fit a 6-1/2" opening. I didn't need to cut anything extra for my speakers. The clearance is fine, just drop them in.







I removed the center console and ran the front speaker wires from the doors, through the rubber tubing to the inside of the car, and down the middle, under the carpet, under the seat, and out to the trunk. Here is a picture of one wire ran. I used about 50ft of 16 gauge wire and barely had enough. Its best to use one continuous wire when hooking up the speakers to the amp. That way you don't have any breaks in the circuit which can cause distortion.







For the tweeters, i ran the wire from the inside of the door and up to the stock tweeter location. Unscrewed the stock tweeters from the pillar plastic and used a Dremel to make the hole larger. The hole is just big enough so that the tweeter can squeeze in and be snug without the use of glue holding it in. The crossover boxes were wired up and stuffed inside between the metal doors and the plastic door coverings.







The amp i used was an Alpine PDX-5 5-channel amplifier it delivers ample power for pretty much any aftermarket speakers and delivers power for a sub woofer as well. This makes installation of a new system easy because you only need to have one of everything instead of having a separate amp for sub and one for speakers. The power wire was run from the engine bay and down through the car on the left side under the trim. The right trim pieces hid my 2 channel rca wire for my subs. The 4 channel rca wire for the speakers ran up the middle. The sub is a single JL 10w3.





My head unit is a pioneer AVH-P4400BH. Make sure That when doing the install of the head unit that you tape up the climate control or you will scratch the heck out of it. The stereo has Bluetooth capability and works much like the stock unit. I took the dome light off when trying to route my mic and dissected the stock mic location. found that it was one single unit that housed the mic and moon roof controls so i didn't want to mess with it. Instead i just mounted the aftermarket mic to the front windscreen and ran the wire across the inside roof lining and down the right side pillar and into the back of the unit. Looks pretty good.







The Axess ASWC was a pain because the directions it can with were confusing. I spliced into so many unnecessary wires until i finally figured it out. Looking at the WIRE side of the small beige 20-pin sub harness, spice into wire #3 and #13. The pink metra wire goes to pin 13 on the harness and the blue/pink metra wire goes to pin 3 on the harness. Both wires match up color coded. Pink wire to pink wire, Blue to blue. Don't get the 24-pin main harness confused. That's what i did until i realized i was splicing into the wrong harness. As of right now, the only functionality it gave me was of volume up and down and next or back a track. The Bluetooth button don't work because the stock Bluetooth module is located outside of the head unit area. Someone would have to figure out where the Bluetooth module is and hard wire it straight up to the ASWC. Other than that its great. You can use the on screen Bluetooth buttons of the head unit but i miss the convenience of the stock switches.



To keep the functionality of my front AUX port, i removed the stock unit, kept the faceplate, and glued a Belkin 6ft 3.5mm Extension to the back and plugged it directly into the back of my head unit. Works great also. All of these extra steps i took were time consuming but resulted in a professional looking install and i tried to keep as much functionally as possible of of the stock amenities.



Other parts i used:
Honda Antenna Adapter: Metra 40-HD11
Honda Receiver Wire Harness: Metra 70-1729
2012 Honda Civic Double DIN Kit: Scosche HA1713B
 

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Good job. Thanks.

BTW do you have any picture that shows wire colors on the 24-pin harness? Also let me know if you experience any of the problem I described on another thread about ASWC.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good job. Thanks.

BTW do you have any picture that shows wire colors on the 24-pin harness? Also let me know if you experience any of the problem I described on another thread about ASWC.
I don't have the wire colors and its all sealed up. I didn't notice any of the problems that you mentioned. The only weird thing is that the buttons only work when the car is turned completely on. If it is on ACC or whatever the first notch is, the stereo comes on but the Vol buttons on the steering wheel wont work. I figured it was good enough because i got tired of messing with it.
 

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I have a question for you how well does the Scoshe bezel match the factory color? I very particular and if it is off then i will go with the honda bezel.
 

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I wanted to make this DIY since there were none for a full install with speaker replacements and sub running to an amp. I replaced the factory radio in my Si with a double din unit. The front speakers were replaced with new components. The rears were replaced with coaxial speakers.

First off is the removal of the rear deck. The rear can only be accessed once the sides with the curtain airbags are removed. After that, there are 4 plastic pins that hold the rear deck on. 2 green and 2 beige. I installed Infinity KAPPA 62.9i in the rears. I like these speakers because they come with a little box that allows for easy speaker wire hookup. I mounted them to the metal in the trunk with double sided tape. Ran the wires down behind the carpet and to the amp.







The Front speakers are accessed by removing the doors. I had the hardest time because it couldn't find any screws but i knew they were there somewhere. You must remove the silver hand piece by gently pulling until the clips pop off. Once that is removed, you can access the 3 screws holding the door on. After that, just pop a bunch of clips off going around the door and off lifts the door. I replaced the front speakers with Infinity KAPPA 60.9CS components. Both the fronts and rears are considered 6-3/4" speakers but can also fit a 6-1/2" opening. I didn't need to cut anything extra for my speakers. The clearance is fine, just drop them in.







I removed the center console and ran the front speaker wires from the doors, through the rubber tubing to the inside of the car, and down the middle, under the carpet, under the seat, and out to the trunk. Here is a picture of one wire ran. I used about 50ft of 16 gauge wire and barely had enough. Its best to use one continuous wire when hooking up the speakers to the amp. That way you don't have any breaks in the circuit which can cause distortion.







For the tweeters, i ran the wire from the inside of the door and up to the stock tweeter location. Unscrewed the stock tweeters from the pillar plastic and used a Dremel to make the hole larger. The hole is just big enough so that the tweeter can squeeze in and be snug without the use of glue holding it in. The crossover boxes were wired up and stuffed inside between the metal doors and the plastic door coverings.







The amp i used was an Alpine PDX-5 5-channel amplifier it delivers ample power for pretty much any aftermarket speakers and delivers power for a sub woofer as well. This makes installation of a new system easy because you only need to have one of everything instead of having a separate amp for sub and one for speakers. The power wire was run from the engine bay and down through the car on the left side under the trim. The right trim pieces hid my 2 channel rca wire for my subs. The 4 channel rca wire for the speakers ran up the middle. The sub is a single JL 10w3.





My head unit is a pioneer AVH-P4400BH. Make sure That when doing the install of the head unit that you tape up the climate control or you will scratch the heck out of it. The stereo has Bluetooth capability and works much like the stock unit. I took the dome light off when trying to route my mic and dissected the stock mic location. found that it was one single unit that housed the mic and moon roof controls so i didn't want to mess with it. Instead i just mounted the aftermarket mic to the front windscreen and ran the wire across the inside roof lining and down the right side pillar and into the back of the unit. Looks pretty good.







The Axess ASWC was a pain because the directions it can with were confusing. I spliced into so many unnecessary wires until i finally figured it out. Looking at the WIRE side of the small beige 20-pin sub harness, spice into wire #3 and #13. The pink metra wire goes to pin 13 on the harness and the blue/pink metra wire goes to pin 3 on the harness. Both wires match up color coded. Pink wire to pink wire, Blue to blue. Don't get the 24-pin main harness confused. That's what i did until i realized i was splicing into the wrong harness. As of right now, the only functionality it gave me was of volume up and down and next or back a track. The Bluetooth button don't work because the stock Bluetooth module is located outside of the head unit area. Someone would have to figure out where the Bluetooth module is and hard wire it straight up to the ASWC. Other than that its great. You can use the on screen Bluetooth buttons of the head unit but i miss the convenience of the stock switches.



To keep the functionality of my front AUX port, i removed the stock unit, kept the faceplate, and glued a Belkin 6ft 3.5mm Extension to the back and plugged it directly into the back of my head unit. Works great also. All of these extra steps i took were time consuming but resulted in a professional looking install and i tried to keep as much functionally as possible of of the stock amenities.



Other parts i used:
Honda Antenna Adapter: Metra 40-HD11
Honda Receiver Wire Harness: Metra 70-1729
2012 Honda Civic Double DIN Kit: Scosche HA1713B
great info-thank u for sharing!!!
 

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I bought my wife a 2012 Honda Civic, and I'm wondering if anyone can help me with a question, and this looks like the right place.

We bought the car used from a dealership, and it had one previous owner. The previous owner installed an aftermarket stereo system in the car, and removed it. So there are no speakers or amp left in the car, and the stock radio is in it. They did however leave the wires, as I assume they weren't worth pulling after already being (what looks like professionally) installed.

Yesterday we were driving it and everything was fine. Hoewever, last night we got in and there was no music coming from the speakers. All the noises that usually come from the messaging system and when you crank the car are still there, just no music when we turn the radio (that is still completely functional) on. I was thinking it might be a fuse or something so I started pulling a few from the internal fuse box under the steering wheel, and none were blown. However, I never found in the owner's manual where there might be alike a fuse for the radio or speakers or anything like that...

Can anyone please help me?
 

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If you have any sort of warranty, I would take it back to the dealer. Not worth the hassel.
 

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I don't have the wire colors and its all sealed up. I didn't notice any of the problems that you mentioned. The only weird thing is that the buttons only work when the car is turned completely on. If it is on ACC or whatever the first notch is, the stereo comes on but the Vol buttons on the steering wheel wont work. I figured it was good enough because i got tired of messing with it.
Just curious of where you powered your ASWC up? If you powered it to the wrong type of ACC connection you might be able to change your power connection to have it work without being fully started.
 

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this was a great read, my only advice would be maybe cut the end off your AUX cord and i would have De-pinned the OEM clip and wired it into that, otherwise great install, i wont be doing a deck swap until someone makes it so i can still have full use of the OEM BT controls and it shows on the IMID
 

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Idk if it's only me or what but I've installed 2 different indashes with navi and the dimmer doesn't work. Can anyone give me a hand?


frawstyy_fb6
 

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Idk if it's only me or what but I've installed 2 different indashes with navi and the dimmer doesn't work. Can anyone give me a hand?


frawstyy_fb6
There are articles on here explaining about dimming but essentially you have to take the illumination wire from the aftermarket head unit and splice it with the hazard buttion's illumination wire. Don't remember which one that is off the top of my head.
 

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I tried to follow this the best I could with the new head unit and the ASWC, I still can't get my steering wheel controls to work. And what's weird is my only beige plug for my stock harness is only a 16 pin with 4 pins being used. None are number 3 or 13, I found a different 20 pin that had a pink #3 and a blue #13 and connected to that, connected it to ground and power. But I can't control my radio with the steering wheel. Any idea of what could be wrong with what I did?
 

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Great job!!

What happened to the good old days where it was so easy to install speakers, amps and head unit in a civic. So complex with the new ones.
I have 2013 Si and so far I've added a 4 channel amp to run the 2 rear speakers and the factory sub and a mono amp to run the 2 12's in the trunk. I'm hesitant to change the stock head unit because it works seamless with all the other stuff and the aftermarket brackets for the 2013 don't look good. I like the carbon fiber style finish the car came with.
 

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from where did you buy the head unit panel. Please share the link so that I can buy it for my 9th gen as well
 

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I know Im late to this party but good God man, your wiring and splicing is BAD. Here is my example (Hell-to-the-no that is not my radio, it was a clients going into his H1):



Soldered and heat shrink wrapped is the way to go.
 

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I don't have the wire colors and its all sealed up. I didn't notice any of the problems that you mentioned. The only weird thing is that the buttons only work when the car is turned completely on. If it is on ACC or whatever the first notch is, the stereo comes on but the Vol buttons on the steering wheel wont work. I figured it was good enough because i got tired of messing with it.
Kust curious of where you powered your ASWC up ? If you powered it to the wrong type of ACC connection you might be able to change your power connection to have it work without being fully started.
hi am new here and a great fan of this forum.. been a silent visitor for long but now am into a strange problem so thought why not share it with you guys to find some solutions so I've just bought myself a 9th gen civic also imported axxess ASWC1 unit for enabling my steering wheel controls but having a similar problem which @op has stated such that whenever i turn on the car (without starting it) HU turn on but steering buttons doesn't work but when i completely turns on the car (by starting it) the steering buttons begin working so plz help me as i need you guys suggestions as to what am doing wrong .. thanks a lot you guys are great also posting a pic of civic connector upon this purple (ACC+) wire I've connected ASWC1 red (positive +) wire

IMG_0003 (956x1280).jpg
 

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First thing I would recommend is the power and ground for your device. Is the ground a new ground that you have created or did you use an existing ground? Is the power wire live in the acc state or is it only live in the run state? Start there and see if you can narrow it down.


Sent from Puffaroach
 
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