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But yeah it doesn't matter as far as connection as long as you have a good Signal the stock headunit is fine for just a simple setup you ever want to go big and stay low-key a jl clean sweep is a decent choice
 

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Lol yea I'm working on it lol and those cvrs are long gone I'm going for sum type rs but that battery is crucial


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Type rs good all you need is one sub in a properly SPEC built box you already have the power bigger subs aren't necessarily better look into it just might save you money and better sound

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I have a bandpass box this is my old set up same box setup View attachment 19062




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Just saying from experience but bandpass are bad destroy subs that's why many companies don't suggest em but hey if you like it.a good solid 10 in a good sealed box with the power will hit plenty

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That's true about the box after I blew my subs I sold the box to my freind and his were blown within a week..but my cvrs lasted me a cool 6 months with only 400watts rms lol I expected them to blow in 2


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You seem pretty knowledgable on this stuff so I have a question. Is it possible to use a crossover with the high pass filter on it instead of using the regular converter to feed the amp?

So you want to use the high inputs of the amp?is what I'm getting?or are you wanting to use a secondary crossover network.


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But yeah it doesn't matter as far as connection as long as you have a good Signal the stock headunit is fine for just a simple setup you ever want to go big and stay low-key a jl clean sweep is a decent choice

I know we were talking on the other thread and I like how this one has kind of condensed what everyones questions were on here.

For the PIE LOC you mentioned in the other thread...

I found 2 different ones and being I've never used one before I wanted to see the difference other than the obvious

I found a 55W and a 75W and I'm not sure what the difference is. Are the watt difference the signal going INTO the LOC from the HU?

To be clear, I do understand what they are and their function, but to see them rated by a wattage confused me? :)
 

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I know we were talking on the other thread and I like how this one has kind of condensed what everyones questions were on here.

For the PIE LOC you mentioned in the other thread...

I found 2 different ones and being I've never used one before I wanted to see the difference other than the obvious

I found a 55W and a 75W and I'm not sure what the difference is. Are the watt difference the signal going INTO the LOC from the HU?

To be clear, I do understand what they are and their function, but to see them rated by a wattage confused me? :)
The loc-t has a remote turn on function
The afv2 I believe is just a Line out converter with no remote turn on function that's the only thing that's different don't worry about the wattage just one can turn on the amp the other cant

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I know we were talking on the other thread and I like how this one has kind of condensed what everyones questions were on here.

For the PIE LOC you mentioned in the other thread...

I found 2 different ones and being I've never used one before I wanted to see the difference other than the obvious

I found a 55W and a 75W and I'm not sure what the difference is. Are the watt difference the signal going INTO the LOC from the HU?

To be clear, I do understand what they are and their function, but to see them rated by a wattage confused me? :)
The one you want is the PIE eis loc-t IF you need it to turn on your amp

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You seem pretty knowledgable on this stuff so I have a question. Is it possible to use a crossover with the high pass filter on it instead of using the regular converter to feed the amp?

So you want to use the high inputs of the amp?is what I'm getting?or are you wanting to use a secondary crossover network.


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I'm wanting to run from the speaker wire used for the factory sub to the cross over and from the crossover ill use RCA's to the amp if that's possible. I've heard people say yes and no


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Haven't decided brand but will be the basic cross over with bass boost and the frequency selections. They have high inputs on them but didn't know if it would act the same as a regular converter


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Haven't decided brand but will be the basic cross over with bass boost and the frequency selections. They have high inputs on them but didn't know if it would act the same as a regular converter


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I have a suggestion look on eBay
Soundstream bx10 or bx15 that should help plenty lmk what you think well go from there

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Cool. Thanks!


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I use those to clean up the stock freq. Output and it'll give you cleaner bass and it throws it a bass gain control so some music may need a tad more bass or less those are good epicenters for the money and ill let you in on a secret its the same people that make the famous audiocontrol epicenter only about a third of the price kinda like Honda and Acura so to speak.

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I recommend a head unit if you have a lx you only get half the bass when you connect it to a rear specker and dosent sound good...I personally regret doing this do my lx


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Just a run through of what I was thinking, and I just wanted to know if it was feasible.

I have a Pioneer GM-5500T Amp, which is a 2-channel amp, pumping out 125w RMS x 2 at 4Ohms, bridged its 400w RMS.

I was going keep the stock rear speakers, and splice into their inputs from the trunk and connect them to the L/R high-inputs on my amp; which then leaves me with L/R outputs from the amp to plug into the sub(s). With this setup, I was thinking of getting a single 10" Pioneer sub (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32838_Pioneer-TS-W259S4.html) (I want to conserve as much space as possible in the trunk) and bridge it, running it at 400watts.

Another question of mine is that the RMS rating on that sub is 350w, while my amp runs at 400w. Is there a huge risk of burning out the voice coil? The gain on my amp is roughly at 35-40%.

For starters, Is this setup even feasible in the sense that I would get decent sound from the sub and whatever stock output from the speakers; or would there be too much of a compromise in sound quality of the sub due to the splicing (as opposed to dedicated wiring)
 
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