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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had the opportunity to receive this Fn2 jdm Civic Type r shifter.
I will do my best to keep it simple and not to picture heavy. This whole process took about and hour and a half for the R2, with two people(which I recommend), with stopping for all of the pictures. A few things, make sure you have a new 5mm star lock washer with you as the one on the car is one time usage, and you don't have to worry about installing cups on the new shifter, if they are anything like how i got mine, its drop in and bolt back up. you don't have to transfer anything over onto the new shifter from the old one, keep that in mind.The tools I used are in the pictures, but i definitely suggest getting yourself a scribe to help pull the plastic tabs for the Shifter cup.

Step 1.
locate the top of the factory shifter boot and the shift knob meet, gently shimmy the plastic latches aprt and pull down on boot when they unlatch.

IMG_1601.jpg

Step 2.
using a 14mm wrench, turn clockwise, while turning counter clockwise on the shift nob with your hand to unscrew the nob, should come off easily.
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and this is what the result will looks like.
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Step 3.
I found that i didn't have to take the center console completely off, all i had to do was take off the forward portion with the shift boot, and middle section with the e-brake.
gently grab back half of the boot and pull up and back until it unlatches, don't be scared.
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Step 4.
You will have to disconnect the two clips that are still connected to the forward section of the console.
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Step 5.
next, gently pull up and back on the middle section of the console where the e-brake is and slide it off.
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Step 6.
when you have those off you will see two black philips head screws. One forward and one back of the shifter upper base holding the passenger side kick panel part of the console on. Unscrew those two screws for easy access to that side, there will be small tabs that hook onto the metal frame. Gently pull up and over to the pass side for it to rest, for easy access to that side if needed.
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Step 7.
Now that your console is done, lets start with the removing the lower shift linkage and the figure 8 pin thats in there.
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Ran out of room, keep scrolling down for next step.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Step 8.
Once you have that out of the way, go ahead and take your attention to the lower portion of the shifter, this can get tricky. With two people it was a bit easy but if you're alone I suggest using a few options. Preferably a pair of snap ring pliers to open the metal spring to release the lower shifter cup. If you don't have this tool you can get creative, two small flatheads, or you're fingers if they are strong enough. try and make sure spring releases upward and not down into your console. The cup will disconnect with ease, and that linkage will rest there with the metal spring attached. IMG_1635.jpg
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Step 9.
when you get the bottom cup off, no you need to get that factory star lock washer off.There are many different ways you can do this, you can use a thin flathead screwdriver and a rubber mallet and tap at it until it folds down a bit, then take pliers and take the rest of it off, be careful, this whole unit is plastic guys and gals.
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Step 10.
once you have success with the washer, go ahead and get a punch and gently tap out the pin thats connected to the pivoting arm(the thing the star lock washer was around). Don't take it all the way out, just enough to free the spring from the shifter and the shifter arm can be free. see picture.
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Step 11.
Alright, now that the shifter is free, here is the fun part(not!). You will need four paper clips and hopefully a spare set of hands, and either a small flathead, or what I used(a scribe). The reasoning behind this is that there are 4 plastic locking tabs that the shift cup is on, keeping it from you just taking it out, or it falling out. so the idea behind this is to gently pry the tabs off and insert the paperclips in its place to essentially keep all tabs unlocked for you to pull out, get it? I used my scribe to pull behind the tabs and out a bit to slide the paper clips in, it's tedious so take your time. Once you have the paperclips installed, what I did was get a strong flathead and lift up on the gap you will see in the pictures bellow, and when its nice and loose, yank that thing out. just my .02
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Disregard the two lower " attached thumbnails" that you see popped up, not sure how to get rid of those but they are not in the step, thanks.


step 12.
congratulations.You should now be looking at this, the Civic Type R(fn2) shifter on the left, and the 2013 si OEM on the right, high 5!
IMG_1677.jpg
Step 13,
Now you need to make sure you lube Both cups up with a thin layer. Slide the new shifter back in where the old one came out, you will see the 4 tabs clip into place. The Instal will be in reverse order as the removal. Slide the pivoting pin back in and put the spring back where it needs to go. Step 13 and step 14 are back to back.
IMG_1652.jpg
Step 14.
Take your new star lock washer and press it against the edge of the pin. The easy way to do this is have someone hold the pin on the drivers side with some channel locks so it doesn't try and come out the opposite end. take a suitable socket and put it over the outer edge of the washer, and tap the socket towards the washer until it seats back in where you removed it from. I know that picture has the channel locks on the wrong side, this is just to show you how to place the socket.
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Step 15.
Now lube some areas that require it.
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Step 16.
the lower cup needs to be installed on that linkage. all you need to do is align it, and push back up, the spring clip will clip back on nicely and you're done with that part.
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Step 17.
All thats left is the lower linkage towards the front, go ahead and slide that back on, and put the crazy figure 8 looking metal clamp on.
IMG_1628.jpg
Step 18.
WOW you're almost done! All you need to do is not forget about those two philips head screws you took off that was part of the console,you should go ahead and put those on right now.Then followed by the middle section of the console over the e-brake, and then re attach the two electrical plugs for the forward part of the console along with the console itself . Put the shift nob back on, and it should look like this, yes that is neutral. I will follow up with my opinion about it later, I spent a few hours typing this up, hopefully I didn't miss anything, feel free to let me know if I did, enjoy!
IMG_1674.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Review time.

cons first,
1. Shifting doesn't feel that much shorter then factory.
2. Neutral looks like it's in 3rd gear, have to manually shake it to double check all the time, givin with time im sure that will go away.
3. Not much slack on the boot do to new position.
4. Slightly more arm movement due to the 1,3,5 positions being farther foward.

pros,
1. Drop in replacement from factory,zero issues(because it is factory)
2. 2,4 shifts are insanely close to the factory neutral position which makes for slightly faster shifts. To give you an idea, it looks like it's in factory neutral when it's in those gears, out of this world, can't even get that with any other ss on the market.
3. Same smooth shifts as you would expect from an oem part.
4. The best part is that no matter what other people have, YOU have a real Jdm civic Type R shifter in your car, can't beat that!


As as soon as I put this thing in I didn't like it, it was awkward, its position is is downright crazy looking. I didn't like how far fwd I was moving my whole arm. After driving around I started to like it, the basically neutral positions of 2,4 gear make up for it, those are the gears I'm in mostly anyway besides 5th and 6th. It's still very smooth also, same as stock. If you have the opportunity to pick one of these up, you should while you can.I bet not many other people will ever have these in their cars, im sure it will be a great talking peice as well. Do it!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
One thing I would have liked to see is the length of the shifter from the cup down. It doesn't look like it is any different that would mean that shift throw length wouldn't be much different.
I have a picture of both side by side in the diy, it really isn't any shorter, just positioned different.
 

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Good write up. From my perspective with this 9th gen, its the first car I don't find myself wanting to change the shifter out of it since my S2000, it's that good. I changed the shifter on my 8th gen Si and my '13 WRX (the rex had a really bad shifter thank God there's Kartboy).
 
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