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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello guys, this is my first DIY, and I hope this helps some of you out! As we all know, stiffer motor mounts will reduce the amount of "flex" produced by a motor when it is under load. With more power, the motor will move more. There are a few aftermarket brands that make stiffer motor mounts for our cars, but if you don't want to spend $100+ per mount, you can try out this very cheap way to increase the stiffness of your mounts.

Tools needed:

  • 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 17mm sockets
    Ratchet, preferably 1/2" breaker bar for the transmision bolts
    Loctite polyurethane adhesive (Shown in step 3 below)

Recommended:

  • Heat gun
    Gloves


1. Removing the battery, intake, and ECU.
_DSC4736.jpg
The first step would be to remove the battery, and intake.

_DSC4737.jpg
To remove the ECU, you would need to unbolt the 4 bolts holding the ecu in place (10mm I believe).
After removing the bolts, you need to unplug the 3 plugs on the back of the ECU, to do so you push down, and pull the lever back to release it.
After all 3 plugs are released, it should come right out.

_DSC4738.jpg
_DSC4742.jpg

2. Removing the mounts.


In this DIY, I only demonstrated the transmission mount since I have hasport rear motor and hasport upper torque mounts. But all the other mounts are similar and can be stiffened with this method.

To prevent the engine from moving after I unbolt the mounts, I placed a jack under just to hold the motor in it's current position.

Remove the 17mm bolts on the mounts to remove it. After you pull the mount out, it should look like this:

_DSC4739.jpg

My mount was pretty dirty, so I tossed it in the sink, sprayed plenty of degreaser and washed it clean. Make sure the mount is clean and dry before moving on to the next step!!
_DSC4740.jpg

3. Stiffening the mount

The holes inside the mount are to help the mount flex and buffer the engine vibrations (opposite of what we want). If you have, or have seen an aftermarket motor mount, you'll notice that there are no holes inside the mount, and it's much stiffer since it's made with Polyurethane instead of rubber.

I went to Home depot and picked up a tube of some polyurethane adhesive for $8 and put it onto a caulking gun.

_DSC4732.jpg
Now what found to have helped was to heat the tube of this stuff up with a heat gun before squirting it out, that way it'll flow better and reduce the chances of trapping a bubble inside. Any bubbles will make the polyurethane adhesive less effective.

After I injected the polyurethane crap inside, I smeared it flat with my fingers (with a glove on of course, since this stuff is a pain to wash off :pat:
). Now this is what the final product looks like:

_DSC4741.jpg


Afterwards, I just let it dry overnight, and then put it back in the car. Still waiting for mine to dry as I'm writing this DIY, so I'll update how well it works after tomorrow.

The next day: Car vibrates a tiny bit more, and my transmission gear whine is much more noticable, but I don't think it's completely dried yet since it was pretty cold last night
2 days later: I'm sure it's at least 95% dried on the inside, my transmision whine is a tiny bit louder from inside the cabin, I'm loving it so far.
A week later: Everything's going great. Feels much stiffer compared to oem for sure.
A few weeks later: After looking into my engine bay, the adhesive seems to have gotten compressed a bit, and it's not sticking too well to the rubber :( I'm going to remove the polyurethane crap and replace it with some JB weld and give that a shot. I'll post updates in about a week

Now, keep in mind this isn't going to make your OEM mounts stiffer than an aftermarket motor mount, but for those of you who are on a budget (like me) this will definitely make it a bit better compared to OEM!










 

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nice! in for updates when you drive it around.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yeah you can always spray WD40 and pull the polyurethane out/chip it off, shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to clean it out since it doesn't stick too well to rubber
 
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