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DIY P2R 1.8L Throttle Body Spacer Install

31K views 32 replies 19 participants last post by  PepeSilvi4 
#1 · (Edited)
This is all done by member WTEX, thanks for the detailed write up on the install!!!!

Take off negative terminal on battery and set aside (10mm socket).



Step 1. Take off rubber intake boot. Freeing the filter box from Cold air tube. Do not throw away for you will be re-using this piece.









Step 2. Take off both filter box bolts. 1 in the front and 1 on the side (10mm socket).

Step 3. Loosen clamp holding filter box to flex hose (7/32 socket or phillips head).




Step 4. Before removing the filter box. Unsnap Mass Air Sensor, unplug green pop pin from MassAir and box. Lay over brake reservoir (out of the way).

Step 5. Remove the filter box. Pull hard since the back of the box is snapped in. You wont break it. Be careful not to smash the cold air tube once the box pops free.

With the box removed you now have plenty of room to work.

Step 6. (3 part step) Remove the top two hose clamps in white and unhook the hoses. Remove the bottom two hose clamps in red and REMOVE the hose. You will loose a little bit of coolant. Do not worry. You will also not be re-using this hose. Loosen the rear clamp holding flex hose to throttle body.

Step 7. Remove flex hose from throttle body and lay out of the way. You have plenty of flexibility in the hose connected to it. Unsnap connector on top of throttle body and on the back side towards firewall. Set aside out of the way.

Step 8. Remove 4 bolts holding throttle body in place (12mm socket). U do not need to remove hose or clamp on top of throttle body.








Step 9. Remove throttle body and lay next to flex hose. Make sure nothing falls inside of the intake.

Step 10. Leave the bright orange Oring in the factory adapter plate.









Step 11. Place the TBSpacer directly on the adapter plate. (the o-ring will help seal the spacer to the plate.)

Step 12. Place gasket and on top of the TBSpacer. Then re-install throttle body.










Step 13. Re-install throttle body using longer screws (13mm socket). I placed a small amount of LockTight on mine. Do not over tighten the screws. Just make sure there is no gap between throttle body, gasket and spacer once tight. Hand tighten with socket and then half a turn should do.

Step 14. Start re-installing and connecting all factory connectors. U will need to install a longer hose where you discarded the one in step 6 (annotated in red). Since it needs to be ¾-1” longer now. Put back all hose clamps and tighten all clamps to the throttle body and filter box. Make sure you re install the Mass air sensor harness to the filter box.

Final step. Attach the rubber intake boot to the filter box and cold air tube. Then tighten the negative terminal back onto the battery.
 
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#12 · (Edited)
Thanks Talon for posting, let us know if you want us to host the pics or start a new post as we were just about to post this up. Thanks also to David for working with us and doing the DIY!

LINK: http://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/23688-post10.html
 
#19 ·
Invisible is right, the hose example seems to be the best example, it doesn't make sense and the "explanation" doesn't help because it contradicts what they teach you in class. Then again dyno results don't lie...or do they?

Also there HAS to be some type of draw back, increasing power and efficiency with now adverse effects?? Also seemingly impossible, why don't they just make the intake huge, that way "there is even MORE air ready to be drawn in." That's essentially the argument.

I would wait till I saw 9th dyno results. Not gonna lie I would prob install it if I saw data to back it up. Just because they teach it in school doesn't mean it's the truth.
 
#25 ·
From experience with performance engines and racing. I can tell you this is a pointless mod for a 4cyl fuel-injected engine. The concept of a spacer originated with hi-perf carbureted engines. The purpose was to create more space between the bottom of the carburetor and the top of the intake manifold. This created an increase in velocity and promoted better atomization of the air/fuel mixture just prior to the intake valve opening and making it's eventual stop into the cylinder/cumbustion chamber. This is also the reason high-rise intake manifolds were developed and used on carbureted racing engines.
 
#27 ·
You guys are over engineering this to death. I have been an engineer for 30 years and can tell you this additional area under the butterfly help, a little. When the throttle is closed there is high vacuume in the manifold. When the throttle is opened this vacuume help atmospheric pressure push air in. The larger the volume of the vacuume chamber the more assist. Revers it to see the reality of it. Fill a one gallon container with 100 psi of air. Open a valve lets say 1 1/2" and see what happens. Then fill a 10 gallon container with 100 psi of air and open the valve. It happens quick but you get a bigger, longer blast from the 10 gallon. Vacuume is the reverse a bigger chamber with a lower pressure will suck more for longer giving you a longer and more intence rush of air, this requires less work from the pistons going down the hole (just initally) once things (pressures) even out its over. The result is the engine is not required to pull as much to charge the cylinders resulting in lest required work which means more power to the crank (initaly) when you slap the throttle open. Is it much, hell no. 2 hp for a tenth of a second or so, but hey sometimes 2 hp gets you to the turn before the other guy. If you still are not convinced, Cut your manifold plenum area down by 20% or so and see how you like it. You will come around then. Once you plenum are excedes you CID you done it does not get better after that. PS when you open that 1 1/2" valve on that 10 gallon container charged with 100 psi, strap in.
 
#29 ·
I finally got and installed one on my 2012 r18. First of all, if you plan on installing it yourself you're gonna need extensions for your rachet to get in where gotta loosen and then tighten bolts. I already threw a weapon r s.r.I. in three weeks before so I already felt a noticeable increase in throttle response and power all through the rpm's. There is also a deeper "intake sound". After I installed the P2R Throttle body spacer it defintely seemed torquier down lower in the RPM's (around 3,000). To me it seems like "more usable power". Overall, more fun!
 
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