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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

This is my first DIY and great idea to keep intake temperature down during high speeds and WOT. I didn't want to risk blowing sound at Laguna Seca with my PRL CAI (the track is limited to ~90dB), so I decided to hack up this project. The basic idea is delete our lower resonator and lower air chamber duct, attach a hose that retains it shape and bends between the fog light and upper intake box.

Here's the basic concept and how it will basically fit.


Items Needed:
  1. (1) Spectre Performance 8741 Black 3" Air Duct Hose (~$20)
  2. (1) 3" Clamp (~$3)
  3. (2) 3.5" Clamps (~$6)
  4. (1 or 2) Long zip tie (~$1)
Take off your resonator and lower intake chamber(All of number 6 and all of number 9 as outlined in this picture). We are reusing the stock 90 degree elbow from the stock air box. Search the forum for "Resonator Delete" for more help.

Screen Shot 2017-07-24 at 9.10.48 AM.png

Take off your foglight cover and remove the foglight. The foglight is attached with (2) screws. Disconnect the fog light harness. Since you already removed your resonator, you can remove the (3) screws holding the foglight bracket from the wheel liner.

As you can see, we will attach the soft coupler from the Spectre intake to the foglight cover. The diameter of my sedans foglight cover is exactly 3", so our coupler fits perfectly. Use the 3" clamp to secure the coupler into place.


Next we attach one end of the hose to the stock 90 degree elbow. Twist the intake hose coupler back and forth until it's all the way in and flush as shown. The coupler that came with the intake hose is very soft and creates a very strong seal if installed correctly. It can literally support the weight of the hose.
IMG_20170722_154121.jpg IMG_20170722_154150.jpg

Snake in stock 90 degree elbow and hose from the bottom to the top.

Secure with (2) 3.5" clamps to the stock air box.


Let's finish up the bottom by attaching the foglight cover and coupler back into the bumper. We will then work the hose into the coupler(You don't necessarily have to screw it in as it can be forced into the coupler. Don't worry it's a memory type of hose so will retain its bends and shape.

I used a very long black zip tie for extra support for the hose.

Put back in your wheel liner and you are done!

Notes: I retained the stock 90 degree elbow from the stock intake system because it is rigid plastic, has structural bends that take the upper radiator hose and shifter movement into account for clearance. If I used a longer hose and attached straight to the stock air box, I imagine the hose itself will come into contact while shifting. The memory hose ducting really does retain its bends and the soft coupler creates a nice seal into the stock 90 degree elbow. The intake hose happened to be the perfect length for my project. The seal between the coupler/hose and elbow is strong enough to hold the weight of the entire hose and more.

The results are very promising. IAT's fell within 10 degrees of ambient temperature(according to my i-mid) at WOT. This means timing won't retard from knock due to high IAT temperatures. The sound is almost stock which is perfect for making sound at the track. My SRI and CAI were obnoxiously loud and I doubt I would have kept it under the 90dB limit. This mod actually had lower IAT then my CAI at WOT and higher speed.

For a symmetrical aesthetically pleasing look, I deleted the right fog light as I never used them anyways.

Please like my first DIY if you found this helpful!

4 Posts
How is the difference in performance? I know you said the IAT's are lower but did you feel similar performance as the PRL CAI.
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