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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It has been a crazy week of experimentation.

Mods
  1. The first thing I did was installed second skin damplifer to my doors & rear deck. It was not fun & I would not do it again. It was not hard to do or work with, but it took forever as I am very particular about my work. I am really hoping it makes a difference! After some indepth research I chose secondskin over dynamat, fatmat, etc.. I will next secondskin my trunk.
  2. The second mod was to create a custom gasket between the deck and the subwoofer plate. This took some time too! I was recommended to do this by JL and it makes perfect sense too. I will silicone the gasket to the deck, but not the plate for ease of removal if needed.
  3. My third mod was to create a custom box to mount to the bottom side of the deck from the trunk. It has an internal volume of .35ft[SUP]3[/SUP]. Polyfill may be used to trick the sub into thinking the internal volume is larger. (FYI: 16oz. of polyfill yields and increase of 1ft[SUP]3[/SUP] from what I was told.). I will L bracket the box to the underside of the deck and seal with construction adhesive or silicone if I like the sound improvement.
I will post back after some comparisons.
I will also post back after I compare stock speakers to, Pioneer & Kicker's.
Any help on how to get through the firewall for my power wire would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
 
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Looks like you have a pretty good handle on things. Nice enclosure for the sub. Keep us updated.

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drop the glove box and go through the boot behind the blower motor assembly. cut the electrical tape on the firewall side of the existing bundle and lube up your wire (before hand) and it should be a breeze.
 

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do not drop our glove box and go through the passenger side. the battery is on the drivers side and there is an easy spot on that side too. underneath the brake booster is a rubber boot, cut a small slit in it with a razor blade preferably on the bottom. use an old wire hanger for help getting the wire through. un twist the hanger into a straight bar. push it through the firewall by itself. once you do this, twist it around the power wire and tape the two together nice and tight. pull the hanger from the inside of the car and take your time, i had to do it twice cuz the wire slipped off the hanger. its easier if you have someone on the outside hold the wire and guide it in. either way you will use less wire this way and it is less noticeable in the engine bay too. i took out all of my interior panels on the drivers side and ran the wire straight back. i used 4 guage wire with no problems. hope this helped you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
fuma419 & grinner910,

Thank you for your feedback, I appreciate it. I am going to try grinner's way first.

grinner910,
1. Where exactly is the brake booster? Both inside and in the engine bay?
2. Do I have to jack the car up to see it and get to it?
3. From the inside of the car, where does the wire feed in from? I removed the foot rest and cover panel that sits over the fuse box. Looked around a bit, but that was before the feedback from you and fuma.

Attached are some pics. If you could provide additional feedback and or pics of your own I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again.

These three pics are from within obviously. Please id location of power wire? Just below the white plug next to the fuse box is a nice whole, could I run it there?
IMG_4515.JPG IMG_4517.JPG IMG_4518.JPG

The first pic is from the drivers side looking at the engine bay firewall. The second is from the passengers side.
IMG_4520.JPG IMG_4523.JPG
 

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hey i didnt even realize you have an SI which means you have a manual transmission. i have the LX model and its an automatic. my setup is a lot different than yours. you have a completely different engine than me so the advice i gave you probably wont help you. sorry for the bad help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
grinner910,
That's okay. I will figure it out. I still have not placed the sub, but I did finish the install of the speakers. I need to second skin the trunk and run the power wire and then I will be golden.

This question is for anyone - what gain should I place my LOC-80 on? I set it up so the amp delivers full wattage to the speaker during my test. At that setup the line out converter is at about 25-35% max.
 

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It has been a crazy week of experimentation.

Mods
  1. The first thing I did was installed second skin damplifer to my doors & rear deck. It was not fun & I would not do it again. It was not hard to do or work with, but it took forever as I am very particular about my work. I am really hoping it makes a difference! After some indepth research I chose secondskin over dynamat, fatmat, etc.. I will next secondskin my trunk.
  2. The second mod was to create a custom gasket between the deck and the subwoofer plate. This took some time too! I was recommended to do this by JL and it makes perfect sense too. I will silicone the gasket to the deck, but not the plate for ease of removal if needed.
  3. My third mod was to create a custom box to mount to the bottom side of the deck from the trunk. It has an internal volume of .35ft[SUP]3[/SUP]. Polyfill may be used to trick the sub into thinking the internal volume is larger. (FYI: 16oz. of polyfill yields and increase of 1ft[SUP]3[/SUP] from what I was told.). I will L bracket the box to the underside of the deck and seal with construction adhesive or silicone if I like the sound improvement.
I will post back after some comparisons.
I will also post back after I compare stock speakers to, Pioneer & Kicker's.
Any help on how to get through the firewall for my power wire would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
good job and thanx for sharing
 

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I wanna do some thing like this, but would have to take it small step at a time ,=/

OP, how much secondskin did u use for the trunk? Approx.

d_u_a_n_e
K24z7 crew member #420
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I wanna do some thing like this, but would have to take it small step at a time ,=/ <br />
<br />
OP, how much secondskin did u use for the trunk? Approx.<br />
<br />
d_u_a_n_e<br />
K24z7 crew member #420
Sorry for a ridiculously long time for my response, but are you asking me this question?

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
^^^ Did you ever get your power wire through the fire wall? Did you have a chance to compare the mods you tried?

colint,

Who are you referring too? I would assume me, with your arrows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I forgot to add these pics to my DIY on this thread. Here they are!

sub1s.jpg sub2s.jpg
 

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Sorry for a ridiculously long time for my response, but are you asking me this question?

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Yessir, I was. I am still looking to do something like this.

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I have a DIY that will guide you through the process. Its quite easy to do and my pics should do just fine. Link: DIY Power Wire Run

The mods that I have experienced with where...
- JL ZR800 8" mid-driver in OEM deck with custom build box attached to the lower deck
- JL ZR800 8" mid-driver in OEM deck with custom build box filled with poly-fill attached to the lower deck
(I liked the overall sound & bass response better without the box or polyfill)
- Experimented with (4) 6.5-6.75 speakers in the doors and the rear deck
(Ended up going with the Kicker DS65's in the rear deck and OEM in the front. The bass sounded much better with the OEM speakers left up front.)
- I may get the trunk lid liner to reduce some road noise and deaden / sound proof the trunk a bit
- I plan on undercoating the car from the underside with rubberized undercoating spray this summer.
- I plan on doing the same to the inside of the trunk. Collegehillshonda has a great DIY on how to remove the interior trunk liner if you watch the video on how to replace the OEM tailights.
- I was also thinking about filling the space in the trunk lid with styrofoam pellets, not sure if this will work, but I was thinking about it.
 
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