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Discussion Starter #1
There's quite a bit to tell so sorry for the length...
My saga begins on a cold night on November of 2016 when my husband and I stopped to get gas for our 2012 Si in a terrible part of town. After filling up, turned the key...nothing. Tried getting a jump, walked to the nearest Wal mart and bought a new battery, prayed to the car gods, etc. After chasing off two would-be car theives, one confused homeless man, and twelve LONG hours, a giant angel (who happened to be a mechanic or so he said) rescued us by shoving a small piece of metal (I think a sewing needle?) into the connector on the sensor to the negative terminal.
Viola!
The car started first try, no issues.
My best guess is the prior owner (we had the car less than a year at this point) had been using the wires to pull the terminal off the post and they had loosened themselves enough that no connection was being made.
The sewing needle actually worked for quite some time (over a year and a half) before we finally found a 2012 in a junkyard that still had the entire assembly for the negative terminal.
We got the wires reconnected and thought that it was over.
Fast forward to present day, we've fixed it two other times but keep running into the same issue with the wires either breaking or loosening etc.
The most recent break ended with us using two pins from unrelated harnesses (since they weren't exactly the same so they wouldn't lock in) and using liquid electrical tape with the hope that it holds long enough for us to get back to our side of the country.
To purchase the female side of the connector means we would have to buy the entire wiring harness for the engine. At the moment, not a viable option for us and to be honest I would like to avoid it altogether. ~$900 (not including time and/or paying someone for labor costs) can go to basically ANYTHING else in the car.
Suggestions? Want to laugh in my face?
Oh and a side note, the "check charging system" light has been on for quite some time. Have had it checked multiple times, all good; plus have a radar detector that displays voltage whenever car is running. So we do keep an eye on it in case of problems.
Lastly, if I posted this in an inappropriate thread please direct me to the correct place to ask.
 

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Do you have pictures? It sounds like the ground lug is loose, but the sensor your talking about conflicts with what I'm thinking.
If your using crimpers to crimp a connector on, sometimes this is a temporary fix as it weakens wire strands. I try using solder with marine grade shrink tubing in certain instances (wire to wire connections).
I'll look on my car and see if I can make sense, but pictures would help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Are you talking about the wire side of either arrowed connections?
The blue arrow.
I don't have the connector for the red arrow.
I have tried soldering the wire to wire connections; the problem we're running into is with the wires themselves becoming brittle and falling apart.
Ideally, I would get some high quality wire, the correct pins, and solder the wire to the pins but tracking down the pins and/or a replacement female connector to get the pins out of is becoming a whole thing.
I appreciate your response.
Do you still want pictures?
I'm thinking since you added that picture, you understand what I'm talking about now....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And my apologies, I'm not sure if I was clear.
The wires become brittle and break right at the connector.
We've already tried gently prying the pins open, putting new wire in, then recrimping(the first time) or soldering(the second time) but keep running into the same issue.
Even if we do find the right pins/replacement connector and add high quality wire, I'm not sure it that 1. It won't continue happening and
2. The charging system light will turn off
I guess we'll just have to bite the bullet, hope we make it home, and take it in to Honda and shell out the stacks of $$$ they'll inevitably charge.
 

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No pictures needed.
Trying to make a solder joint where something was previously crimped normally doesn't hold well.
My guess is the dealer won't be as bad as you think. You can buy pigtails for alot of connectors, which is a connector with a few inches of wire already connected. The issue is knowing what type of connector you need. You can get one with a pigtail from a junkyard too.
 

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Electrical connectors/plugs are referred to as a "pigtails"in the industry. A pigtail can be had for any harness or component.

Dealers always try to sell the whole harness because they are too lazy to look up parts numbers and or just want a bigger sale.

With that said, there is no reason for that plug to affect the starting of the vehicle at all. That plug is for the alternator regulation. That is why your "check charging system" message is coming on. You can disconnect that plug and the vehicle will start with no problems.

Yes I read your story,but unless some weird type of modification has occurred and is somehow tied into that circuit,your issue lies elsewhere.

AS for the plug. These guys have it or can make it for you. Cost is usually somewhere around $75-$100. Yes expensive for a little plug,but still cheaper than the alternatives:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for your responses.
I was originally told those wires were the auxiliary ground for the vehicle and that's why no power. When I say no power I mean it's as if the battery wasn't connected (the light around the ignition wouldn't even light up when the door was opened up.)
When I look at the wiring schematic in my Hayes book it shows a battery sensor with two wires. One with a capacitor that goes to the PCM and alternator. The other goes direct to the ELD (if I remember correctly, I dont have the book with me and I'm not at home but I'll double check when I get there.) Im not an electrican but I would say I have an idea of how to read schematics in laymens terms at the least.
So if the PCM and alternator aren't getting a signal from the sensor in conjunction with the ELD getting no reading from the sensor it would make sense to me that the car wouldnt start.
But as I said, I'm no mechanic nor an electrician. Just trying to understand.

I've attempted to track down the part number of just the pigtail of various "OEM Honda" part websites and the harness is the only thing I could find. I have ordered replacement pigtails previously by using the numbers/letters physically on the pigtail but this guy is blank.

Thanks for the recommendation for the connectorexperts. When I get to a computer, I'll take a look at their site to see if they can help me out. $75 to $100 is better than $900.
 

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Thank you for your responses.
I was originally told those wires were the auxiliary ground for the vehicle and that's why no power.
That is incorrect.
When I look at the wiring schematic in my Hayes book it shows a battery sensor with two wires. One with a capacitor that goes to the PCM and alternator. The other goes direct to the ELD (if I remember correctly, I dont have the book with me and I'm not at home but I'll double check when I get there.)
Problem with a Haynes manual is that they are often times incorrect. The white wire is simply fused source voltage. The green wire is the LIN bus data communications wire between the PCM and alternator. The battery sensor is simply a current sensor, it does not affect starting at all.
Im not an electrican but I would say I have an idea of how to read schematics in laymens terms at the least.
So if the PCM and alternator aren't getting a signal from the sensor in conjunction with the ELD getting no reading from the sensor it would make sense to me that the car wouldnt start.
But as I said, I'm no mechanic nor an electrician. Just trying to understand.
I AM a mechanic, and I specialize in electrical troubleshooting. Your interpretation of the starting system is incorrect. There is no input from the battery sensor for the vehicle to start.

Its simple enough to verify. Unplug the sensor and try to start your car. If it doesnt start, something is very wrong and you may want to take it to a repair facility.
(I can try helping you here,but you'd need access to a more accurate wiring diagram, a volt meter, time and patience as I cannot be here at all times)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I believe I just heard the choir singing "Hallelujah"

I was extremely misinformed. Man, how we could've used your expertise years ago. I unplugged the clip, started no problem. Now that I'm properly educated, I want to slam my head into a few walls.

I have a real nice voltmeter, I can always make time and patience (old family recipe.) As for the accurate wiring diagram, I can be pretty resourceful sometimes when my brain is working, if that was a real offer. If not, I get that you don't want to come home after work and talk about the same kind of work related crap.

Really thank you for the correct information so I can cross that stupid clip off the list and move on to the next possible issue(s).
 
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