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The only thing I'm still wondering is the whether the fact that the energy goes to the next gear up will be less beneficial. Since you're lower gears have more torque, I'd think that the lighter flywheel would be better because you get the energy in first gear, opposed to it dumping on your shift to second.

What do you think?


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You don't get the energy back on the last gear but you do get it on the 1st clutch dump at the launch; so it's a wash.



You're focused on single-gear acceleration because that's what the flywheel manufactures want you to focus on. Marketing sells parts.

But yeah. We've put together a pretty comprehensive thread for all of the future generations to TL;DR.

Fun day.
Very fun day haha!


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You don't get the energy back on the last gear but you do get it on the 1st clutch dump at the launch; so it's a wash.



You're focused on single-gear acceleration because that's what the flywheel manufactures want you to focus on. Marketing sells parts.

But yeah. We've put together a pretty comprehensive thread for all of the future generations to TL;DR.

Fun day.
So are you saying that Honda has installed the optimum flywheel for our cars or should we go even heavier if given one for free?

While I am a licensed train driver, I only have a butt dyno to test my mods. The thing I don't like about the drive-by-wire or whatever about these engines is rev hang.

To me my 8th Gen is like a 125 dirtbike since I installed the lightweight flywheel and lightweight crank pulley. It just goes brap up and down. So when I drive I am able to ride it like a little dirtbike popping off the powerband (butt dyno again) instead of rev hang keeping my rpm's so high I go 6-8 grand. I can go 5-8 or 6.5 to 8 at will. It feels like the rpms drop sooner.

It is just....so much fun. I will do my 9th when I swap clutches to. My 8th only has 308k miles and doesn't stall at stops. I can imagine that a heavy weight flywheel has less disruption in momentum reducing shock, but does everyone really care about reliability? If so, I would say - don't install that turbo or supercharger but rather send it to me. <insert smilie emiticon>

Curious.

/hopes my 8th blows up so I can do the next build
//310k and still beating it like a bish everyday
 
I ask to understand and am re-reading your posts to try help.

One thing I ran across on the 8th for people paying Honda dealers to change their clutch is that Honda wanted a new flywheel. They were refusing to re-surface them - not sure if they were concerned about clutch engagement/CMC adjustment levels or otherwise but that was a common statement. The Honda OEM is not cheap. Not my dealer and my first clutch change they did resurface the flywheel no problem. I only paid them to do it since my 3rd gear synchro meltdown and tranny rebuild. I swapped the subsequent ones myself.
 
The only thing I'm still wondering is the whether the fact that the energy goes to the next gear up will be less beneficial. Since you're lower gears have more torque, I'd think that the lighter flywheel would be better because you get the energy in first gear, opposed to it dumping on your shift to second.

What do you think?
It's counter-intuitive, I know.

You would have gotten the benefit of the leftover energy from the previous gear in every gear except for first; which would have gotten the increased benefit of the higher inertia at launch.

In each gear, you are storing energy that will go into the beginning of the next gear, but you have already benefited from that same cycle from the previous gear.

We're not really talking about a lot of difference here.
 
I ask to understand and am re-reading your posts to try help.

One thing I ran across on the 8th for people paying Honda dealers to change their clutch is that Honda wanted a new flywheel. They were refusing to re-surface them - not sure if they were concerned about clutch engagement/CMC adjustment levels or otherwise but that was a common statement. The Honda OEM is not cheap. Not my dealer and my first clutch change they did resurface the flywheel no problem. I only paid them to do it since my 3rd gear synchro meltdown and tranny rebuild. I swapped the subsequent ones myself.
The problem with resurfaced flywheels is when they're done on old and uncalibrated equipment and/or by untrained people. I had a flywheel resurfaced by a company that only rebuilt clutches and they did it wrong.

A new flywheel is ~$80 and refinishing a used one is ~$30. If a clutch job in this car is ~$1000, why would I risk it for $50.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
So in general, normal person, no math answer, you are saying for a normal street driven Honda Civic with some small mods, a lightweight flyweheel is not worth investing in?
Correct ?

However there are some other applications that a lightweight flywheel would be a good part to have.
 
So in general, normal person, no math answer, you are saying for a normal street driven Honda Civic with some small mods, a lightweight flyweheel is not worth investing in?
Correct ?

However there are some other applications that a lightweight flywheel would be a good part to have.
Correct. Save your money and buy some lightweight wheels. They will actually make your car faster.

I personally wouldn't drop flywheel weight more than 15% in a DD. The original flywheel in the Si is ~16 lbs. I have a 14.5 lbs flywheel now and it's still drivable.
 
The problem with resurfaced flywheels is when they're done on old and uncalibrated equipment and/or by untrained people. I had a flywheel resurfaced by a company that only rebuilt clutches and they did it wrong.

A new flywheel is ~$80 and refinishing a used one is ~$30. If a clutch job in this car is ~$1000, why would I risk it for $50.
TER, my tact in asking questions is bad but my intent is good.

For my 8th Gen Civic a Majestic Auto Honda OEM flywheel is $236 plus shipping/9th is $196. At a dealer expect more. I change my own so I am OK resurfacing but I don't where to get an new $80 flywheel unless you mean used.
Honda Automotive Parts

Again, not me or mine, but people have had Honda refuse to do clutches without stock flywheel replacements. I would advise them to find another dealer but normally Honda has your car in pieces when they tell you.

If given a choice, you would select an OEM 16 lb flywheel vs. a 11 lb or 9 lb flywheel because..... Not cost. But......??

I have never used a 8 lb aluminum flywheel (?do they have different contact surfaces?) but many autocrossers like the fast rev/fast rpm drop and find it more responsive to rpm matching when downshifting seeing as you aren't trying to bring the giant sawmill flywheel to a stop. I went for a middle of the road 11 lb unit. It does not stall.

I like you explanation but would like to see the application. Let's go full circle.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Correct. Save your money and buy some lightweight wheels. They will actually make your car faster.

I personally wouldn't drop flywheel weight more than 15% in a DD. The original flywheel in the Si is ~16 lbs. I have a 14.5 lbs flywheel now and it's still drivable.

I didnt think about light weight wheels, thats a good idea !
I dont know what the weight is for the Fidanza flywheel, maybe if its less then 15% like you mentioned ill look into it more !
 
TER, my tact in asking questions is bad but my intent is good.

For my 8th Gen Civic a Majestic Auto Honda OEM flywheel is $236 plus shipping/9th is $196. At a dealer expect more. I change my own so I am OK resurfacing but I don't where to get an new $80 flywheel unless you mean used.
Honda Automotive Parts
A brand new flywheel for the 03-11 Element is listed on Rock Auto for $49.79. I paid $78 at NAPA. It's a direct fit to the 8th and 9th civic Si and the kit for the 8th Si bolts right on. It's 14.5 lbs.

Again, not me or mine, but people have had Honda refuse to do clutches without stock flywheel replacements. I would advise them to find another dealer but normally Honda has your car in pieces when they tell you.
A customer doesn't get a bad clutch job and immediately assume that they got a defective or improperly machined part, they just assume that the shop botched the job. It's a lot less headache to just use all new parts and pass the cost on to the customer.

If given a choice, you would select an OEM 16 lb flywheel vs. a 11 lb or 9 lb flywheel because..... Not cost. But......??
Let's look at the cons of having a lightweight flywheel (<75% of the stock weight):
-It will exponentially shorten the service life of your engine, especially if you have forced induction.
-It will make the car more difficult to drive at low speeds.
-You will stall more often if you have the radio volume up, are talking on the phone, or having a conversation with a passenger.
-You will have to slip the clutch more from a stop, making the clutch wear out faster.
-It will make the car more noisy and uncomfortable at higher engine speeds.
-It will make the car more difficult or impossible for others to drive in an emergency.
-It will make the car more difficult to sell or trade in.
-You won't be able to teach others to drive a stick in your car.
-You need to run a FlashPRO, so it won't pass California emissions.
-Other things I'm not remembering right now.

And the pros:
-It will make your car read a higher horsepower on a dyno.
-it will make the engine rise and fall through the rev band more quickly.
-It's easier to flatfoot-shift and to heel-toe.
-It will make a dog box last longer, and those things are pricey.
-It makes the tires less likely to break loose on a launch.
-It makes your car lighter.
-It makes your car even more difficult to steal.
-Street cred.
-Other things I'm not remembering right now.

So if you care more about things in list 2 than list 1, you should go light.

I have never used a 8 lb aluminum flywheel (?do they have different contact surfaces?)
The aluminum flywheel has a steel friction surface that is bolted on with countersunk screws and nuts on the back. The friction surface is around 3/16" thick and is made of tool steel. The ring gear is also steel and is pressed on and either screwed in place, or sometimes it has little steel tabs welded on that fit into grooves on the aluminum part to keep it from moving (since steel and aluminum expand at different rates). The pressure plate bolt holes have helicoil inserts in them. The kit usually comes with a big steel plate that all of the crankshaft bolts go through so the bolts don't bite into the aluminum.

So all of the parts that do anything are made of steel anyway.

but many autocrossers like the fast rev/fast rpm drop and find it more responsive to rpm matching when downshifting seeing as you aren't trying to bring the giant sawmill flywheel to a stop.
Yup. But how many of the really good drivers daily their cars?

I went for a middle of the road 11 lb unit. It does not stall.
Great. As long as you're satisfied. The K20 has a shorter stroke so it needs a little less flywheel for compression.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
So much back an forth. lol
Im going to look to see about that 15% weight with Fidanza for the flywheel and go from there.
 
You don't need a FlashPro for a lightweight flywheel.
The only thing it changes is rotational mass. It will change how fast the car revs up and how you have to dither the clutch when engaging gears.

I have ran both a stock and aluminum flywheel in a very modified Integra GSR.

The only reason I would do a lightweight flywheel is competition use and if I was sure I would never go FI.
The stock weighted flywheel is designed for both performance and comfort. The light weight is designed for performance in high rev, and faster rev changes.
I will not be using a light weight on my street vehicle because I feel there is a perfect balance of performance and comfort from that system.
I don't race around the race track enough for the cost/benefit of an aluminum as the gains are not that noticeable except how fast your engine revs.

The money would be better spent on a stiffer engine mount (improves engine stability and smoother shifting in spirited driving) or FlashPro with a tune.
 
Contact Fidanza directly.....no in betweens that may or may not cloud the issue and get their side of the story
Right. Get your opinion from someone who has a direct financial interest in the matter. That'll be less biased.

You don't need a FlashPro for a lightweight flywheel.
The only thing it changes is rotational mass. It will change how fast the car revs up and how you have to dither the clutch when engaging gears.

I have ran both a stock and aluminum flywheel in a very modified Integra GSR.

The only reason I would do a lightweight flywheel is competition use and if I was sure I would never go FI.
The stock weighted flywheel is designed for both performance and comfort. The light weight is designed for performance in high rev, and faster rev changes.
I will not be using a light weight on my street vehicle because I feel there is a perfect balance of performance and comfort from that system.
I don't race around the race track enough for the cost/benefit of an aluminum as the gains are not that noticeable except how fast your engine revs.

The money would be better spent on a stiffer engine mount (improves engine stability and smoother shifting in spirited driving) or FlashPro with a tune.
Flywheels <14lbs trigger a misfire code that sends your car into limp-mode that can only be removed with a FlashPRO.

http://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/ecu-tuning/83209-misfire-detection-flashpro.html

http://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/ecu-tuning/124801-clutch-flywheel-tuning.html

http://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/en...gine-engine-swaps-pulleys-injectors/17538-performance-clutch-reccomandtion.html
 
Wow that is intense. I am definitely wrong than, guess you need the FP.
Your still thinking about the old B-Series and early K-Series days.
 
Cool. The ability to swap a Honda Fit flywheel for a Civic SI is returns on a little squeezing on your knowledge. I buy things for life (need a bigger barn) but you hit on a number of items that are very true for the public knowledge.
Curious for a poll of the cons (need to confer with Mrs. MattalliSI and teach a 17 yr old how to drive a stick in short order) but noted.

No dis for the 9th but I find my 2014 SI Coupe almost boring that time will come for a new clutch and I would like to be prepared which you are helping. A semester of MSU for my kiddo is on the radar but not a turbo so I only replace parts as they need to be fixed then upgrade. Hence my 8th references and $/fun.

/Good St*ff Maynerd!
 
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