[Startiger52]

To begin I tried to do a head unit swap with a pioneer single din. Granted I should’ve got a pig tail to do the conversion but I’m usually broke so I end up splicing wires 90% of the time. Well I got everything wired up and had power running to the old head unit and the aftermarket since all the security wires and such go through the head unit. Fast forward and a lot of stuff doesn’t work like it should. I took out the aftermarket head unit and spliced the original wiring back together. Still didn’t fix it. Put a test light to fuses and fuses are good. Put the test light to the battery power to the head unit and bubkiss. No power. I get acc power just no main power. So now my key fob doesn’t work the stereo doesn’t work the I-mid doesn’t work nor does the ports in the center console. Could I have shorted something out when wiring or is this some sort of security feature? Any help is much appreciated. Side note I’ve always worked with older radios when it comes to wiring stuff in so I don’t know much about how the newer head units are with security and the like.

 

[Beeshabo]

Sounds like a can of worms and like you'll be needing a professional to fix it.

 

[kev604]

Tried to save money but now will probably cost you more for someone to back track to find where you messed up.

 

[NightFlyer]

Just curious here -- when you say that you used a "test light" to test the fuses and circuits, do you mean an old-school device with an incandescent light bulb in it, where you ground the device, and it has a probe for looking for hot wires, and it lights up the light bulb with the power that it probes? If so, stop using this device on any modern or semi-modern car with computer circuity IMMEDIATELY! The current that the light bulb draws can easily damage sensitive computer circuits if you tap into such a circuit with this type of test light.

Now, if the test light is labeled as "computer safe" and made from a reputable manufacturer, then that should be different -- such a device should be designed to pull much less current from whatever circuit that you are testing. Or, just use a good digital multi-meter designed for use with sensitive computer circuits.

When you say that ports in the center console don't work, what ports do you mean? Cigarette lighter/power point sockets? Or things like USB or Aux-In? If it's the cigarette lighter/power point sockets, then that is a bit odd. I say that because, at least on my 2015 Civic LX Coupe, the power point sockets are only powered when the key is on (or at least on the accessory position). But you're also describing things not working that sound like they are powered by constant/battery power. If that's the case, then it sounds like you've got issues with several circuits. Are you sure you checked all relevant fuses? In general, there is a fuse box under the dash, and another one under the hood.

These days, it is pretty much required to use the proper aftermarket wiring harness adapters when installing an aftermarket radio in a modern car since so much more than just audio/radio circuits go through the factory head units on many modern cars. The proper adapters attempt to simulate the necessary circuitry in the factory radio -- and even then, you might lose certain functions.

 

[iskdj]

Getting my new 2020 TRD Game in Friday. My fundamental wellspring of music is my 258 gig Iphone 8 that is sole occupation is an ipod. I'm wanting to stow away the iphone and usb link in the mid control area receptacle with the cover shut. 15,000 tunes set to rearrange, i'll beware of it like clockwork!



Kodi nox