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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, gotta reach out for some help here. I just got PRL kit installed with RBC and ZDX TB. It was tuned to 224hp + 191 torque, sounded good on the dyno, too. As soon as I take it out, after winding out a couple gears to see what my mods have got me, i was turning around and as I accelerated it cut off just shy of 3000 rpms, sputtered on and off the throttle bogging and not going anywhere. Check engine light came on, check VSA system, check power steering system, check emissions system, and i think one more. I had to drive back to the shop shifting at 2500. There was a hose from the PRL TB adaptor that was pinched a bit, so we adjusted that and checked the code. They said it was MAF, getting too much air, and said I probably need the PRL intake so the air isnt so dense. They cleared the code and told me to try it again and let them know. Sure enough, same thing keeps happening and i have to keep clearing the code for it to allow me to get over 3000 rpms without going into limp mode, but it keeps happening.

PRL, who have been amazing as far as service, said they have tuned with all kinds of intakes without issue, and told me to find out if it was tuned off MAF or MAP, and it should be tuned off MAP. I haven't had a car tuned in years, and am just learning Hondata, so i don't know what I'm doing or how to fix it by tuning, and I don't want to make anything worse. I'm just doing some datalogging and clearing the code every day.

CODE IS P0101.


Here's my thoughts:

1.Maybe a tuning issue? Have them get it back on the dyno and look at datalogs to see if they can adjust it.

2. I smell coolant, but not leaking any. I thought maybe they hooked something up wrong, but these guys (All Jap Cars in Ft. Lauderdale) know what they are doing. They were the first ones with a turbo kit for 8th gens. Maybe the coolant needs to be burped? Could that cause all the system checks, limp mode and the misfiring?

3. Bad sensor? I only have 10,000 miles, I'm doubting the MAF would be bad. I'm not sure if they used my factory MAP sensor, or one that came with the kit. Maybe that could be bad?

4. Could my TB be jacked up? Its used, and i pushed it open once when I first got it before I decided maybe thats a bad idea since its DBW. I left it alone after that.

5. Ground wires? They grounded both on top of each other to the intake manifold. This would make more sense as to why all the system checks and what not. but i don't have a thermal gasket, shouldn't grounding there be fine?

6. Vit Viper. Should i contact this guy and send him some datalogs. If you're reading this can you help? I heard he's the man, but i figured they have a dyno and they're pretty good, and I wanted to dyno it anyway.

I'm taking it back, tomorrow, but I could use any advice so we aren't all scratching our heads for days and have some direction as to where to start. Thanks in advance!
 

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I would check tps I worked on an accord once it was an auto though had the tps in plugged by accident and wouldn't come out of park and did similar things as well had to readjust tps ... I'd start there I wish I had access to my in network lol they cut me off when I left honda
 

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You can go to options then show advanced perimeters and then the calibration window on the bottom is misc. you can disable the po101 code by unchecking the box I had to do that with my zdx throttle body before I went turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You can go to options then show advanced perimeters and then the calibration window on the bottom is misc. you can disable the po101 code by unchecking the box I had to do that with my zdx throttle body before I went turbo

Did you have similar issues to me before doing that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You can go to options then show advanced perimeters and then the calibration window on the bottom is misc. you can disable the po101 code by unchecking the box I had to do that with my zdx throttle body before I went turbo

Wow, this worked! I was throwing more codes than just the P101 by the time I got there to get it tuned again. The others were like intake system leak and pretty much the same crap all having to do with the TB and bigger IM. We just told Hondata to ignore them and reset and boom, good to go!

She's running nice now!
 

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It's throwing a code for a reason. You need to figure out the source of the problem before you damage your engine. Disabling the code isn't a fix, while it is a band-aid you're just keeping it from reporting the problem. Obviously people run this set up without issue so you've got something going on. Put your stock throttle body on the RBC and see if that fixes the problem, I would bet it does. If so then you know the problem. If it still acts up then you know it's not the TB. Keeping doing that with every system, process of elimination. Sounds like it's getting too much air throwing off your A/F ratio. Hope this helps.
 

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Digging up old news and all, but with the rbc install (no thermal gasket) I had the same issue, and it was because of the grounds being on the manifold. I switched them to the head and it ran great. Back when I had them on the manifold I experienced certain issues:

Coming to a stop, the car sometimes would rev by itself between 1000-2000 rpms, or sometimes bog and try to stall.
At higher rpms the car would bog and lose power.
I couldn't figure out the problem, so I kept it at low rpms until I could, and eventually the car started cutting power and I had no power.
Having the grounds on the manifold was shown by another thread to produce inconsistent voltage and that would result in the bogging. Switch them to the head.
 
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