iMID dead and power locks disabled
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Gotcha! I will definitely see if someone with a little more experience and knowledge then I have will be able to reply to this thread then. Thank you so much man, I appreciate and respect the help that you’ve provided me. Hopefully it is just the ECM and I can get that screen and lock issue fixed in no time.
I’ll keep this thread updated regardless.
Hope someone is able to help out further!
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Yeah for sure! Hopefully it’s something simple like that. But keep the thread updated, it will help anyone else who might experience these issues in the future.
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Keep in mind, since I have no direct experience with this product or anything like it, anything I am posting here is speculation.
I've installed quite a few radios and alarms in the past, as I used to install mobile electronics professionally. And that wiring diagram in that link looks pretty straight-forward. To me, it looks like those red and black wires, labeled power+ (power-plus) and power- (power-minus), are simply the main accessory power and ground connections for the device. Someone said that the black wire should go to the negative wire of any accessory outlet -- and yeah, if the black wire is for ground, then that should work. But ground is ground. If that black wire is meant to go to ground, then any solid chassis ground should work.
My next question would be, where did you hook the red power+ wire? Did you tap into the fuse box? If so, are you sure you tapped into an accessory-powered wire, and not a constant hot-wire? And did you tap into the protected/fused side of the fuse, or the powered side of it? Because if you tapped into the powered side, and something goes wrong with your circuit, then the fuse you tapped in to would not be a part of the circuit and would not protect against shorts -- so you would need your own fuse to your wire right where you tapped into it. And even then, there could be problems if your camera causes more current, overall, to be drawn on that circuit than what it was designed for. So, I never like to tap directly into factory fuses. On my car (2015 Civic LX Coupe), I get the accessory power from the wire feeding the cigarette lighter/power point. First of all, that circuit is meant to supply power to aftermarket accessories up to a certain amperage (since people plug GPS, radar detectors, cel phone chargers, etc. into that power point). And secondly, the wire is already protected by a factory fuse -- but to be safe, I still also always wire my own fuse right where I'm tapping power, anyway.
The spark while hooking up ground does seem a little weird, but a couple things could cause this. For one thing, if the rest of the device was already getting power (like if you hooked up the red power+ wire first and that wire was powered up), touching the black wire to ground would suddenly cause circuits in the device to be powered up and could cause a small spark if it's drawing a fair amount of current. It's best to hook up the ground first, and in this case, you would not want the power+ wire to actually be hot/powered up until you're completely done installing the device -- or at least completely done with the wiring -- and ready to test it. If the power+ wire is hot/powered up before you hook up the device's ground wire, then power may flow through the device in unexpected ways and potentially cause problems. Another thing that could cause a spark is if you tried to hook up that ground wire to something that is not actually a ground wire. Where did you try to hook up that black wire?
Next, how about that reversing lamp wire? Where did you hook that up? It seems like it is meant to hook up to the wire that powers the back-up lights when you put the transmission in reverse, but again, I'm just looking at that diagram and don't have the full instructions.
Finally, do you know whether the power+ wire is meant to go to accessory, or to ignition? In general, an ignition power wire is usually hot/powered up while cranking the engine when starting the car, but an accessory wire is not. I would not think that power-when-cranking would be necessary for this device, and the wire diagram does say "ACC" which implies accessory, but it could be something to verify in the instructions.
So, I realize that these suggestions do not fix the issues you are experiencing with your iMID screen and door locks, but these could be things to check if you try to re-install the camera system after getting your iMID and locks fixed. I would've guessed that you blew a fuse, as well, causing the iMID and door lock issues, but you said you already checked the fuses. All I could suggest there is to get a hold of a detailed fuse guide for the car to see exactly where all of the fuses are, and to see exactly which ones may affect the iMid and door locks, then double check those fuses.
Beyond all of the wiring and fuse possibilities, I would be concerned about the product itself. I've never heard of the brand, and I'm wondering if the product is defective.
I've installed quite a few radios and alarms in the past, as I used to install mobile electronics professionally. And that wiring diagram in that link looks pretty straight-forward. To me, it looks like those red and black wires, labeled power+ (power-plus) and power- (power-minus), are simply the main accessory power and ground connections for the device. Someone said that the black wire should go to the negative wire of any accessory outlet -- and yeah, if the black wire is for ground, then that should work. But ground is ground. If that black wire is meant to go to ground, then any solid chassis ground should work.
My next question would be, where did you hook the red power+ wire? Did you tap into the fuse box? If so, are you sure you tapped into an accessory-powered wire, and not a constant hot-wire? And did you tap into the protected/fused side of the fuse, or the powered side of it? Because if you tapped into the powered side, and something goes wrong with your circuit, then the fuse you tapped in to would not be a part of the circuit and would not protect against shorts -- so you would need your own fuse to your wire right where you tapped into it. And even then, there could be problems if your camera causes more current, overall, to be drawn on that circuit than what it was designed for. So, I never like to tap directly into factory fuses. On my car (2015 Civic LX Coupe), I get the accessory power from the wire feeding the cigarette lighter/power point. First of all, that circuit is meant to supply power to aftermarket accessories up to a certain amperage (since people plug GPS, radar detectors, cel phone chargers, etc. into that power point). And secondly, the wire is already protected by a factory fuse -- but to be safe, I still also always wire my own fuse right where I'm tapping power, anyway.
The spark while hooking up ground does seem a little weird, but a couple things could cause this. For one thing, if the rest of the device was already getting power (like if you hooked up the red power+ wire first and that wire was powered up), touching the black wire to ground would suddenly cause circuits in the device to be powered up and could cause a small spark if it's drawing a fair amount of current. It's best to hook up the ground first, and in this case, you would not want the power+ wire to actually be hot/powered up until you're completely done installing the device -- or at least completely done with the wiring -- and ready to test it. If the power+ wire is hot/powered up before you hook up the device's ground wire, then power may flow through the device in unexpected ways and potentially cause problems. Another thing that could cause a spark is if you tried to hook up that ground wire to something that is not actually a ground wire. Where did you try to hook up that black wire?
Next, how about that reversing lamp wire? Where did you hook that up? It seems like it is meant to hook up to the wire that powers the back-up lights when you put the transmission in reverse, but again, I'm just looking at that diagram and don't have the full instructions.
Finally, do you know whether the power+ wire is meant to go to accessory, or to ignition? In general, an ignition power wire is usually hot/powered up while cranking the engine when starting the car, but an accessory wire is not. I would not think that power-when-cranking would be necessary for this device, and the wire diagram does say "ACC" which implies accessory, but it could be something to verify in the instructions.
So, I realize that these suggestions do not fix the issues you are experiencing with your iMID screen and door locks, but these could be things to check if you try to re-install the camera system after getting your iMID and locks fixed. I would've guessed that you blew a fuse, as well, causing the iMID and door lock issues, but you said you already checked the fuses. All I could suggest there is to get a hold of a detailed fuse guide for the car to see exactly where all of the fuses are, and to see exactly which ones may affect the iMid and door locks, then double check those fuses.
Beyond all of the wiring and fuse possibilities, I would be concerned about the product itself. I've never heard of the brand, and I'm wondering if the product is defective.
Hey thanks so much for getting back to me, I actually am pretty confident I messed up a little on my end as well. There’s a power (+) and a power (-) which I am assuming meant positive and negative of any 12V acc.. now what I did was after I connected the harness, I took the power (+) and connected it into the powered side of my ACC fuse… which means the fuse was not protecting anything… and the got the power (-) and grounded that wire, which I realize I shouldn’t have and should’ve connected it to a negative terminal or something similar. Now my problem is, I think what problem I may be having here is an electrical short but I wouldn’t know what to fix or how I would even start fixing. The fuse for ACC wasn’t blown (Bec I obv tapped power (+) into powered side of fuse) so I know I caused damage to something, but just need clarification on WHAT it is that’s damaged.
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Well, like I said, ground is ground. So, it should not have mattered whether you hooked the power- (minus) wire (assuming that this is the wire on your back-up camera meant for ground) to a good chassis ground, like a solidly mounted bolt under the dash, or to something like the negative/ground wire going to the cigarette lighter. To be safe, I would not ground any aftermarket device to any bolt that secures a factory electronic or computer module, and I would not hook it to any factory wire -- even if that wire appears to be a ground -- except perhaps the negative wire going to the cigarette lighter. Other factory wires could be going to sensitive computer modules, and it is also very possible for some wires to appear to test as ground with a meter, but then those wires end up not being true ground wires and could even power up when the car is switched on. It could even be a factory computer data wire -- and you certainly don't want to hook up to that!
Additionally, if you had your camera device hooked to a live power wire first, before hooking up the ground wire, then power might have tried to flow through the camera device circuitry in unexpected ways, which may have caused problems. Like I said -- it's always best to make sure your ground is hooked up before any power wires, and in fact, it is best to not try to power up your aftermarket device (the back-up camera, in this case) before you have all the wires hooked up properly and ready to test.
And yes, if you hooked up to the powered side of the fuse in the fuse box, like you said, that factory fuse in the fuse box would not have been protecting the wiring for your camera. So, if there was no fuse on that wire, and if there was a short circuit of some kind with your wiring or the camera, then yes, it could have blown something farther "upstream" from the fuse box. I am not sure of the specifics for our Civics, but often, there are main fuses under the hood that serve as a sort of last line of defense in case of situations like this. Since these are main fuses, they often feed power to multiple circuits, so it is very possible that one of those is blown. Maybe someone else here could offer more insight to the existence and/or specifics of any possible main fuses under the hood.
Additionally, if you had your camera device hooked to a live power wire first, before hooking up the ground wire, then power might have tried to flow through the camera device circuitry in unexpected ways, which may have caused problems. Like I said -- it's always best to make sure your ground is hooked up before any power wires, and in fact, it is best to not try to power up your aftermarket device (the back-up camera, in this case) before you have all the wires hooked up properly and ready to test.
And yes, if you hooked up to the powered side of the fuse in the fuse box, like you said, that factory fuse in the fuse box would not have been protecting the wiring for your camera. So, if there was no fuse on that wire, and if there was a short circuit of some kind with your wiring or the camera, then yes, it could have blown something farther "upstream" from the fuse box. I am not sure of the specifics for our Civics, but often, there are main fuses under the hood that serve as a sort of last line of defense in case of situations like this. Since these are main fuses, they often feed power to multiple circuits, so it is very possible that one of those is blown. Maybe someone else here could offer more insight to the existence and/or specifics of any possible main fuses under the hood.
Dude thank you so freaking much!!!!! Had the SAME issue and I just fixed it at 2 am thanks to you!!!!!!!
UPDATE!!! PROBLEM FIXED!!! Just checked under engine bay fuse box, fuse number 29, the BACKUP fuse didn’t LOOK like it was fused when pulled, but when I did a power check it WAS fused!!!!! THANK YOU TO ALL OF YOU GUYS THAT TRIED TO HELP OUT!!! Also thanks to neoweapon who also had this problem and posted the solution!!!!!!
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