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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I'm interested in supercharging my Si with Merc Racing's kit. I've been doing some research and it seems I have 3 options for intakes:

1) Short ram intake. Most off the shelf brands should work.
2) Cold air intake. Custom piping would have to be done to accommodate bends since the throttle body is angled in the stock manifold. Merc Racing's inlet sticks straight out.
3) Custom intake.

Are there any benefits to doing custom work or a CAI? My thought is that you could reduce IAT by moving the intake away from the engine bay. But since the blower is compressing air and getting it hot already it doesn't make a big difference; an aftercooler would probably have more tangible benefits.

Should I just get a SRI and call it a day? Any thoughts are appreciated!
 

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I just finished installing the MR1320 kit with A2W aftercooler a few weeks ago and I ended up just making a custom intake after talking with @Reeses_Cars about it. The biggest benefit I found was the cost, it seems like a lot of the intakes you can buy off the shelf are priced pretty high for what your getting. I wound up using these pieces for the intake (Vibrant 12190 Elbow, K&N RU-5114, Pegasus auto racing 3.5 to 2.75 inch reducer) if I remember right that cost me slightly over 150$. I have included a picture below, if you find an SRI for a similar price you could use that too as long as you don't run into any fitment issues depending on your build. If you have any other questions let me know.

Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Automotive air manifold Automotive design
 

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The ideal solution is to use to relocate the battery (Either to the trunk or use something like a K-tuned or PRL battery tray) and route your piping/couplers over to where all the off-the-shelf kits go.

You underestimate the effect of hot air on these blower setups. Granted, the TVS are more efficient than the MP62's in the CT-Engineering kits, but heatsoak can be a serious problem. It's especially noticeable on non-aftercooled setups and after trying to do back-to-back pulls. They need all the help they can get.

If you'd like to put it to the test, you can also do what Smith suggested and piece something together and run that for awhile and see if it suits your goals. Not much money lost and you can always switch it up after a while.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just finished installing the MR1320 kit with A2W aftercooler a few weeks ago and I ended up just making a custom intake after talking with @Reeses_Cars about it. The biggest benefit I found was the cost, it seems like a lot of the intakes you can buy off the shelf are priced pretty high for what your getting. I wound up using these pieces for the intake (Vibrant 12190 Elbow, K&N RU-5114, Pegasus auto racing 3.5 to 2.75 inch reducer) if I remember right that cost me slightly over 150$. I have included a picture below, if you find an SRI for a similar price you could use that too as long as you don't run into any fitment issues depending on your build. If you have any other questions let me know.

View attachment 494619
I'm always down to save money! Did you build the intake yourself or did you get a shop to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The ideal solution is to use to relocate the battery (Either to the trunk or use something like a K-tuned or PRL battery tray) and route your piping/couplers over to where all the off-the-shelf kits go.

You underestimate the effect of hot air on these blower setups. Granted, the TVS are more efficient than the MP62's in the CT-Engineering kits, but heatsoak can be a serious problem. It's especially noticeable on non-aftercooled setups and after trying to do back-to-back pulls. They need all the help they can get.

If you'd like to put it to the test, you can also do what Smith suggested and piece something together and run that for awhile and see if it suits your goals. Not much money lost and you can always switch it up after a while.
Noted thanks for the input. I suppose I could fab up an intake and see how it compares with a CAI later down the road. I'd be curious to see the before and after.
 

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Interesting. I already have an Acuity CAI and planing on getting a Merc Racing kit, probably the 1900 Air to Water kit some time next year. The only thing I can figure is I need some odd ball coupler from the TB to the intake.
 

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I'm always down to save money! Did you build the intake yourself or did you get a shop to do it?
I pieced it together myself, was pretty straightforward just needed to trim the pipe elbow a bit. @BWill9886 is right though if your setup allows for it, it is more ideal to minimize the amount of heat around the intake. I will likely move the battery to the trunk in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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I agree with the battery relocation and moving the filter away from the header/down pipe.
But I will note that I did as many as 12 laps at limerock in 80* weather and my IATs did not go above 110.
I’ll note that I did run a bigger heat exchanger and the CWA pump for improved cooling.
After 30K+ miles, and watching how the temps behave, I have no doubt that the aftercooler setup can keep up with the heat in the bay.
Would it be better away, absolutely, is it mission critical, not really for a street car.
 

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That CAI would be a good bet. Prove it to yourself though. Check out Perrin's dual digital temp sensors. I think amazon has them for 110 bucks....one goes in the charge pipe after the supercharger and before the intercooler and the other goes right before the TB. You'll see the temp drop about 30° while driving, but at a red light or traffic.....temp #1 starts climbing. Ambient air at 70° #1 at 115° and #2 is catching up to it.
Straight pipe (less restriction) to where your battery is now like the kraftwerks kit. Then build a thermal shielded CAI box around the filter opening down to that front driver fender well.
You got those sensors...then you got proof if changes you make are actual improvements
 

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That CAI would be a good bet. Prove it to yourself though. Check out Perrin's dual digital temp sensors. I think amazon has them for 110 bucks....one goes in the charge pipe after the supercharger and before the intercooler and the other goes right before the TB. You'll see the temp drop about 30° while driving, but at a red light or traffic.....temp #1 starts climbing. Ambient air at 70° #1 at 115° and #2 is catching up to it.
Straight pipe (less restriction) to where your battery is now like the kraftwerks kit. Then build a thermal shielded CAI box around the filter opening down to that front driver fender well.
You got those sensors...then you got proof if changes you make are actual improvements
my issue with a CAI is hydro locking. I don’t care how much more power it makes, if the shit hydro locks, you’re gonna wish you didn’t do it. I was close to hydro locking an engine once. Sudden flash floods, not fun.
If anything I’d do the straight pipe to just behind the headlight on our cars.
 

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That CAI would be a good bet. Prove it to yourself though. Check out Perrin's dual digital temp sensors. I think amazon has them for 110 bucks....one goes in the charge pipe after the supercharger and before the intercooler and the other goes right before the TB. You'll see the temp drop about 30° while driving, but at a red light or traffic.....temp #1 starts climbing. Ambient air at 70° #1 at 115° and #2 is catching up to it.
Straight pipe (less restriction) to where your battery is now like the kraftwerks kit. Then build a thermal shielded CAI box around the filter opening down to that front driver fender well.
You got those sensors...then you got proof if changes you make are actual improvements
Merc kits are roots blowers so no intercooler.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
 
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