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Discussion Starter #1
IMPORTANT; I need any personal experience on the K-tuned 3inch catted/catless down downpipe.*
About to purchase new for a good price and want to do this right the first time. Any info would help.

It seems all the 3inch dp has a similar design for fitment purposes. This Dp has a 200cell high flow metal core cat.*
Best to be used with 70a rear motor mount. Any info such as
The quality::would you recommend something else?
Product life span:: any cracks or defects?
Noises/rubbing even with rear motor mount?
Gains?

ANY INFO would be solid. Ty.
 

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I think Rujokinjal had the DP. Talk to him. I would go Fullrace, but they are probably the most expensive.
 

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Full Race had some issues with the initial downpipes, although I've heard they have a "Gen 2" that has been revised. Just saw a post yesterday with the KTuned catbacks about the tip cracking at the edge. They're willing to send out a new tip but expect guys that are running them to pay to have them replaced. And this is all within a year. I know that's not their downpipe, but that still resonates with me. RV6 is the only downpipe that I haven't seen any quality issues (save for that one on year that dude has had for 4 years) with so I went with them. I bought mine used as well and have had it on the car for a year. No issues whatsoever.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the advice daver. 1 private message sent. Just surprised theres no reviews posted from the KTuned DP users. The Downpipe is Probably alright tho im thinking the negative reviews would of definitly found its way on the forums

Jfisher I agree with your post rv6 has great rep. I know Full race puts down the numbers.. the v2 probably has even better craftsmanship now etc welds?
correct me if im wrong.
Catted Rv6 was my first option but its tough to get it to Canada. Quote from rv6 website the All-in w/ shipping price is almost as much as fullrace catted price.

Ty.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If there is no negative reviews I may just go with Ktuned and review it later on.
Jfisher do you have a tune done with the rv6 dp? Were you happy with the performance?
 

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I have the RV6 myself, wish I got the Fullrace. In my opinion, the Fullrace is the best. The RV6 is good quality, but not 3 inch. 3 inch gives the best gains.
 

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I know Full race puts down the numbers.. the v2 probably has even better craftsmanship now etc welds?
correct me if im wrong.


Ty.
There has never been any quality issues with full race. They are probably the best quality piece available and always have been. The v2 just redesigned the connection to the head using a cast piece. The original downpipe had a bit kink in it where the oval head opening went to the 3" round pipe.

The ktuned piece looks nice as well. Let us know how you like it





Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright thanks for info. Pictures nd review will be up when I get there. Anybody with more Info feel free 2 post ?.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ill be keeping exhaust stock. And matching it with the 3inch downpipe. From what ive read it will work little to no extra work.

Car specs:
2013 civic si sedan
2015 civic si stock exhaust
Lowering springs
Takeda CAI
70a RMM
Flashpro

The 14-15 have slightly larger piping around the muffler area.

Still reading forums for more info on this. Anybody else with experience or advice with 3inch downpipe paired with stock exhaust?

Would you change the midpipe to a larger diameter?
Or keep it stock and change up the resonator?
Or leave it alone nd keep it low pro.

Ty.
 

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Okay,

So i think you are on the correct Path.
Your Cai is a waste. you will not see anything over the stock air box. PRL/Skunk2/Acuity are the only one worth the money.
The RMM, go with Hasport. Stay away from innovative mounts. I know 2 people who purchased them and ended up going with Hasport anyways. Just hands down a better product.
The tuning device is a must, either FP or Ktuner. Both are good for Na cars. If you plan on going boost i would highly recommend Ktuner as they give more boost options once you get there. And as alway if you have the cash, go Motec. It is hands down the best for our platform. but with the $6500 price tag it is out of the reach for most of us.

As for the 3" DP I will never buy another ktuned DP. the welds are shit, the cat was bent and ended up failing. Over all i would go with ultimate racing for a catted dp and Full race for a non-catted.
If you are are not going boost, do not worry about the exhaust. Not worth the time/money if not going Forced Induction.


Hope this helps

RujoKinJal
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't a ktuned dp a rebranded ultimate racing dp?
 

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Kevvo21 i remember someone saying that.

But i have seen both and they look different. Welds were much better on the UR DP.
I would have to say, it may have been at one point, but as for the newer ones (& this is just my opinion) K-tuned make their own.
I no longer have mine, BUt i can guarantee i will not own another one. The quality that should come with a $550 downpipe just wasn't there.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay,

So i think you are on the correct Path.
Your Cai is a waste. you will not see anything over the stock air box. PRL/Skunk2/Acuity are the only one worth the money.
The RMM, go with Hasport. Stay away from innovative mounts. I know 2 people who purchased them and ended up going with Hasport anyways. Just hands down a better product.
The tuning device is a must, either FP or Ktuner. Both are good for Na cars. If you plan on going boost i would highly recommend Ktuner as they give more boost options once you get there. And as alway if you have the cash, go Motec. It is hands down the best for our platform. but with the $6500 price tag it is out of the reach for most of us.

As for the 3" DP I will never buy another ktuned DP. the welds are shit, the cat was bent and ended up failing. Over all i would go with ultimate racing for a catted dp and Full race for a non-catted.
If you are are not going boost, do not worry about the exhaust. Not worth the time/money if not going Forced Induction.


Hope this helps

RujoKinJal
Hasport 70a RMM was a must. Car stays planted thru shifts. Prob was ofcourse the vibrations.. but coach says he can tone it down somehow with tuning. Ill patiently wait for that one ? lol.

Thanks for the help. But If anything its that the Takeda intake system is better than stock. Let me explain

(With my personal experience I know ppl shit on the greddy/takeda design, but my say is that, Its a complex design, you can literally make it sri or cai or take the box off and run the filter, just pick your occasion. *Performance wise is Better vs stock box, definitely in the highway speed pulls*?. A difference you can feel. Bonus if your crafty you can setup a good funnel /hose to the front hole. Same concept, from behind our foglight location, all for constant cooler air.
Put on some Gold Reflective tape on the box and done.
RujoKinJal I agree tho I think the prl/s2/acuity is better is bcuz its bigger piping 3.5inch. So overall if i did it again id go with one of the proven brands that made more power than takeda. But for anyone that love the design or live where you need to have the filter covered in a box. The product is still cool ?️
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I bought the ktuned DP before I got your messages. Got it properly looked at. My welds look okay when I had it inspected for visible defects. Maybe they stepped it up? They have welding inside and out. I will post all pics within a week.
Thanks RujKinJal
 

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Well just for the record. All other intakes you loss power with a good tune.
BUt, like always we do what we want with our money. you asked for an opinion so i gave the ones i have seen.
Numbers done right don't lie.
 

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If there is no negative reviews I may just go with Ktuned and review it later on.
Jfisher do you have a tune done with the rv6 dp? Were you happy with the performance?
I do now, but I initially ran it for about 15k miles without a tune. The car ran perfectly fine. The only potential issue I see is that it may have lead to the death of my primary O2 sensor.

There has never been any quality issues with full race. They are probably the best quality piece available and always have been. The v2 just redesigned the connection to the head using a cast piece. The original downpipe had a bit kink in it where the oval head opening went to the 3" round pipe.

The ktuned piece looks nice as well. Let us know how you like it
Unfortunately there are multiple documented cases of the gen 1 Full Race downpipes cracking over on the FB group.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well just for the record. All other intakes you loss power with a good tune.
BUt, like always we do what we want with our money. you asked for an opinion so i gave the ones i have seen.
Numbers done right don't lie.
For sure I appreciate the knowledge man!
The takeda works in mysterious ways for me lol. Cuz im numbers and a facts guy and 3.5inch w/ good design makes more power. Maybe the takeda delivers more torque due to its design idk. I need to find posts for Takeda CAi+dyno numbers.

I can get ahold of a ktuned 3.5inch intake b4 my tune but its no acuity or prl... what to do. Ktuned 3.5inch > takeda?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If there is no negative reviews I may just go with Ktuned and review it later on.
Jfisher do you have a tune done with the rv6 dp? Were you happy with the performance?
I do now, but I initially ran it for about 15k miles without a tune. The car ran perfectly fine. The only potential issue I see is that it may have lead to the death of my primary O2 sensor.

There has never been any quality issues with full race. They are probably the best quality piece available and always have been. The v2 just redesigned the connection to the head using a cast piece. The original downpipe had a bit kink in it where the oval head opening went to the 3" round pipe.

The ktuned piece looks nice as well. Let us know how you like it
Unfortunately there are multiple documented cases of the gen 1 Full Race downpipes cracking over on the FB group.
That sucks that the o2 sensor went.
Im also on hondata forums. I just read people see crazy low AFR numbers when datalogging but its actually our OEM prim o2 sensor not able to read it(i dont know this for a fact i just read it) For Example:: if the sensor can only read to 12.75 and your hitting 12.5 in WOT it can read as low as 10.14. Weird.
 

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For sure I appreciate the knowledge man!
The takeda works in mysterious ways for me lol. Cuz im numbers and a facts guy and 3.5inch w/ good design makes more power. Maybe the takeda delivers more torque due to its design idk. I need to find posts for Takeda CAi+dyno numbers.

I can get ahold of a ktuned 3.5inch intake b4 my tune but its no acuity or prl... what to do. Ktuned 3.5inch > takeda?
I think I would try and get the PRL CAI or the Acuity one. Ask them if they can send it overnight?

Otherwise, I would do the 3.5 KTuned. I was interested in the Takeda, but the only place I could find numbers in favor of the Takeda were from Takeda themselves. Even Kseries pros and Vit said it won’t be better or worse than the stock air box.

The only ones I know of in all my research that make power are the Acuity, PRL CAI and Short Ram and Rick Spec’d
 
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