[gimiv]

Hello All,

I've been trying to find a easy-ish solution in the forum, but it doesn't seem that many people care to mirror their backup camera from the iMid to their aftermarket head unit (with a bigger, brighter screen). I assume that the iMid backup camera has nothing to do with the head unit as the iMid backup camera is retained with no head unit installed.

My research has led me to believe that the only way to achieve this is to open up the dashboard, access the 32 pin iMID adaptor and splice off of the Video+ (Black - Pin19) and Video- (White - Pin 3) into an RCA, then run that to the backup camera port of the head unit (Pioneer MVH-1400).

I've been able to retain all other functionality with a iDatalink Maestro RR + HO2 harness, but when I put the car in reverse, the head unit is just a black screen (because I wired the reverse trigger cable), but I'd much rather it mirror the iMid.

My question is this:

Is there any other way to access the iMid's video signal other than opening up my dash and splice off the iMid? Or possibly splice into the the black (video+) and white (video-) cables somewhere under the dash, radio, glove box?

Thanks in advance!

Jim

 

[gonzoleroy]

Hi Jim, I’m in the same boat. Did you ever find a solution to mirror the backup camera on your aftermarket head unit?

Jason

Hello All,

I've been trying to find a easy-ish solution in the forum, but it doesn't seem that many people care to mirror their backup camera from the iMid to their aftermarket head unit (with a bigger, brighter screen). I assume that the iMid backup camera has nothing to do with the head unit as the iMid backup camera is retained with no head unit installed.

My research has led me to believe that the only way to achieve this is to open up the dashboard, access the 32 pin iMID adaptor and splice off of the Video+ (Black - Pin19) and Video- (White - Pin 3) into an RCA, then run that to the backup camera port of the head unit (Pioneer MVH-1400).

I've been able to retain all other functionality with a iDatalink Maestro RR + HO2 harness, but when I put the car in reverse, the head unit is just a black screen (because I wired the reverse trigger cable), but I'd much rather it mirror the iMid.

My question is this:

Is there any other way to access the iMid's video signal other than opening up my dash and splice off the iMid? Or possibly splice into the the black (video+) and white (video-) cables somewhere under the dash, radio, glove box?

Thanks in advance!

Jim

 

[gimiv]

Hi Jim, I’m in the same boat. Did you ever find a solution to mirror the backup camera on your aftermarket head unit?

Jason

Hi Jason,

I have yet to do the job (waiting for weather to cool down a bit), but I'm fairly certain that the way to achieve this is as I've stated by opening up the dash to expose the iMid harness and tapping into pins 19 and 3 and running them into your video input of the head unit with a spliced RCA cable. What made me certain was the user guide for my iDatalInk Maestro. Look up your car in this manual and navigate to the "Vehicle Wire Reference Chart" and validate that the location of the Video+ and Video- is indeed located in the iMid.

I'll probably do it in the coming weeks if you are in no rush and require validation before proceeding. Otherwise, you go first and let me know if it works

Jim

 

[gonzoleroy]

You know, given the long weekend I’ll probably tackle this little project. I have to remove the stereo/climate control bezel anyway in order to vinyl wrap it.

The only thing that worries me is removing the entire dash and either breaking something or losing a clip. (All the teardown guides I found were missing photos).

I’ll share any lessons learned with you, and of course the results of connecting the camera feed. Take care!

Hi Jason,

I have yet to do the job (waiting for weather to cool down a bit), but I'm fairly certain that the way to achieve this is as I've stated by opening up the dash to expose the iMid harness and tapping into pins 19 and 3 and running them into your video input of the head unit with a spliced RCA cable. What made me certain was the user guide for my iDatalInk Maestro. Look up your car in this manual and navigate to the "Vehicle Wire Reference Chart" and validate that the location of the Video+ and Video- is indeed located in the iMid.

I'll probably do it in the coming weeks if you are in no rush and require validation before proceeding. Otherwise, you go first and let me know if it works

Jim

 

[gimiv]

You know, given the long weekend I’ll probably tackle this little project. I have to remove the stereo/climate control bezel anyway in order to vinyl wrap it.

The only thing that worries me is removing the entire dash and either breaking something or losing a clip. (All the teardown guides I found were missing photos).

I’ll share any lessons learned with you, and of course the results of connecting the camera feed. Take care!

Excellent. Please do update this thread with your results!

FYI.. Google, "ADExternal's 2012 Honda Civic Reverse Backup Camera DIY" for good photos on the dashboard removal and where all the clips are

 

[gonzoleroy]

Success!

Removing the dash was much easier than I expected. For anyone wondering, the 2013 Si model pinout on the iMid harness is the same as for other models; position 3 (black, +) and 19 (white, -).

The resolution on the stock backup cam isn’t the greatest, which is more evident on a high resolution screen than on iMid...but I’m happy with it. Overall easy mod!

Excellent. Please do update this thread with your results!

FYI.. Google, "ADExternal's 2012 Honda Civic Reverse Backup Camera DIY" for good photos on the dashboard removal and where all the clips are

 

[gimiv]

Success!
Removing the dash was much easier than I expected. For anyone wondering, the 2013 Si model pinout on the iMid harness is the same as for other models; position 3 (black, +) and 19 (white, -).
The resolution on the stock backup cam isn’t the greatest, which is more evident on a high resolution screen than on iMid...but I’m happy with it. Overall easy mod!

Excellent work, looks great and happy to hear that it wasn't terribly difficult. I'm glad to see that it ONLY took in the video signal and not the guidelines from the iMid, I like the Pioneer guidelines much better.

Which head unit is that 2600NEX? Back when I bought mine, the only tablet style was 1400NEX. I kind of want to upgrade to the 4660NEX for Wireless Carplay and HD Radio, but its about twice the price and I can't justify it....

 

[gonzoleroy]

Thanks! I like the Pioneer guidelines more as well, and I think it’s great that they’re adjustable. The default setting has them floating somewhat, so I’ll calibrate when I’m parked on a completely level surface.

That unit is the 2660NEX. I was on the fence for the 4660 as well, but: 1. An extra $250 just for wireless is steep; and 2. I charge my phone every time I drive anyway. (One thing to consider as far as head units: Kenwood units support dynamic parking lines, exclusively Kenwood. I didn’t know it was even possible until I was deep into installation.)

I forgot to mention during initial testing I had a small heart attack...no video output to the head unit! I assumed it would work without the iMid being reattached to the harness, but I found out otherwise 😂

Whatever route you take with the head unit I look forward to seeing your results!

Excellent work, looks great and happy to hear that it wasn't terribly difficult. I'm glad to see that it ONLY took in the video signal and not the guidelines from the iMid, I like the Pioneer guidelines much better.

Which head unit is that 2600NEX? Back when I bought mine, the only tablet style was 1400NEX. I kind of want to upgrade to the 4660NEX for Wireless Carplay and HD Radio, but its about twice the price and I can't justify it....

 

[gimiv]

Thanks! I like the Pioneer guidelines more as well, and I think it’s great that they’re adjustable. The default setting has them floating somewhat, so I’ll calibrate when I’m parked on a completely level surface.

That unit is the 2660NEX. I was on the fence for the 4660 as well, but: 1. An extra $250 just for wireless is steep; and 2. I charge my phone every time I drive anyway. (One thing to consider as far as head units: Kenwood units support dynamic parking lines, exclusively Kenwood. I didn’t know it was even possible until I was deep into installation.)

I forgot to mention during initial testing I had a small heart attack...no video output to the head unit! I assumed it would work without the iMid being reattached to the harness, but I found out otherwise 😂

Whatever route you take with the head unit I look forward to seeing your results!

Yah, I agree with the $250 wireless premium, as an audio purist, I think a wired connection is probably superior anyway (plus charging is nice).

Interesting on the dynamic parking lines, that would be cool. But static is good enough, best justified as a positive in order to retain human parallel parking skills. =)

I looked at Kenwood, but the pioneer mach-less silver edge design is a perfect match when combined with the scosche HA1716B dash kit (with the silver trim). I know its $20 more than the metra (with coupon code DONTGO25 on Schoshe.com), but totally worth it IMO in terms of quality and aesthetics. (see below) I have people in my car that don't believe me that the setup is not OEM.

Also, that Aukey magnetic phone mount is pretty useful too

Thanks for the heart attack warning!

 

[Jroll2001]

i have a question about this topic. I have the 2014 Honda Civic Ex. I have a pioneer 1400nex. With the stock head unit, my camera would pop up on the touchscreen and not the IMID display. Would I have to take the same steps of mirroring my camera to the aftermarket head unit as it was done in the LX. I know that my backup camera harness will be where the head unit is and not where the IMID is. So would I just splice into those wires and then splice a video cable to plug it into the back of the head unit? And as for the reverse wire for when the camera needs to know when to be initiated, which wire is that and where would I splice that wire into? Just any 12v wire that is live?

 

[gimiv]

i have a question about this topic. I have the 2014 Honda Civic Ex. I have a pioneer 1400nex. With the stock head unit, my camera would pop up on the touchscreen and not the IMID display. Would I have to take the same steps of mirroring my camera to the aftermarket head unit as it was done in the LX. I know that my backup camera harness will be where the head unit is and not where the IMID is. So would I just splice into those wires and then splice a video cable to plug it into the back of the head unit? And as for the reverse wire for when the camera needs to know when to be initiated, which wire is that and where would I splice that wire into? Just any 12v wire that is live?

Hello Jroll,

You do not have to go through this process as the camera is wired directly to your head unit. However, you will be required to buy a steering wheel interface module (Maestro ADS-MRR) and a harness (iDatalink HRN-RR-HO2). This will plug and play to match your car harness (including reverse signal).

The only thing you will need to do is match your pioneer cables to the HRN-RR-H02 harness which have the same colors.

 

[Jroll2001]

Hello Jroll,

You do not have to go through this process as the camera is wired directly to your head unit. However, you will be required to buy a steering wheel interface module (Maestro ADS-MRR) and a harness (iDatalink HRN-RR-HO2). This will plug and play to match your car harness (including reverse signal).

The only thing you will need to do is match your pioneer cables to the HRN-RR-H02 harness which have the same colors.

Yeah, I understand that. But I’m not trying to buy the part I need. Because the harness itself is $100 and the module is like $60. I’m not really trying to put anymore money into my car because honestly, having an R18 engine is just annoying and I really don’t like my car anymore. I’m about ready to sell it. lol.

 

[gimiv]

Yeah, I understand that. But I’m not trying to buy the part I need. Because the harness itself is $100 and the module is like $60. I’m not really trying to put anymore money into my car because honestly, having an R18 engine is just annoying and I really don’t like my car anymore. I’m about ready to sell it. lol.

Ah, I see. In that case, I wouldn't be able to guide you unfortunately. You'd need to map the car harness wires to your head unit wire harness which is above my pay-grade unfortunately =)

IMO, if you are thinking of selling, don't even bother as the EX model has a lot of functionality in the OEM head unit (unlike LX model) that the next buyer will probably want.

 

[gonzoleroy]

Jroll, are you putting in the 1400NEX to help the resale value? I’m just thinking that losing the oem integration (steering wheel controls, etc) that the maestro kit would provide could do more harm than good for the value.

Jim, that scosche kit looks great! I should have done my homework on this install, I would have opted for that one.
I like the magnetic phone mount as well, but suction cups have always worried me for stability...phones are expensive lol. No issues?

Yeah, I understand that. But I’m not trying to buy the part I need. Because the harness itself is $100 and the module is like $60. I’m not really trying to put anymore money into my car because honestly, having an R18 engine is just annoying and I really don’t like my car anymore. I’m about ready to sell it. lol.

 

[gimiv]

Jroll, are you putting in the 1400NEX to help the resale value? I’m just thinking that losing the oem integration (steering wheel controls, etc) that the maestro kit would provide could do more harm than good for the value.

Jim, that scosche kit looks great! I should have done my homework on this install, I would have opted for that one.
I like the magnetic phone mount as well, but suction cups have always worried me for stability...phones are expensive lol. No issues?

Yah, I originally bought the Metra dash kit, but I wasn't loving the quality of it, particularly the mounting brackets that keep the stereo bolted down, so I sprurged on the Sosche.

But If you're splurging....and already bought the Maestro ADS-MRR, I'd highly recommend the drone mobile remote start module and service (see below). It's super cool and lets you control everything from your cell phone. Also gives you great data such as battery and car temp even when the car is off.

 

[gonzoleroy]

Dammit, Dronemobile is awesome! I was looking for their hardware, but everything seems to direct me to a dealer for install. Did you go that route, and how much?

 

[gimiv]

This is the route I took:
Remote Starter - Compustar Firstech FT-DC3-LC - $95 @ Amazon
Drone Module - DroneMobile - X1 LTE - $95 @ ebay
Harness - Compustar ADS-THR-HA3 - $30 @ BestBuy
Temperature Sensor - Compustar Firstech FT TEMP SENSOR THERMISTOR $10 on ebay
Programming Cable - iDatalink ADS-USB Weblink $30 on Amazon
DroneMobile 5-year Basic Plan: $180 (Ouch....YOLO)

That's a grand total of $440..

You can probably do it cheaper, but I wanted everything to be plug and play. IMO, I've already got my money's worth with this hot summer as I refuse to go into the car before its at a cool 75 degrees. Chicago winters will make it ever more worthwhile.

I'm assuming you already have the Maestro ADS-MRR? If so, the installation is very easy, no splicing, just a bit of cable management under the steering wheel.

You don't need a dealer to program the remote start module. You just need to register and click through all your setting (valet mode, max run time, etc) and you are good.

If you do decide to go forward, let me know, I'll mail you my USB cable and save you a $30, you can mail it back once its programmed.

 

[Jroll2001]

Jroll, are you putting in the 1400NEX to help the resale value? I’m just thinking that losing the oem integration (steering wheel controls, etc) that the maestro kit would provide could do more harm than good for the value.

Jim, that scosche kit looks great! I should have done my homework on this install, I would have opted for that one.
I like the magnetic phone mount as well, but suction cups have always worried me for stability...phones are expensive lol. No issues?

Oh no, I put the stereo in for my own liking and I already had wired in the steering wheel controls back in. But it was only the module for retaining steering wheel controls before I had noticed there was one to retain the back up camera and everything and I didn’t feel like putting up more money for it.

 

[Jroll2001]

Ah, I see. In that case, I wouldn't be able to guide you unfortunately. You'd need to map the car harness wires to your head unit wire harness which is above my pay-grade unfortunately =)

IMO, if you are thinking of selling, don't even bother as the EX model has a lot of functionality in the OEM head unit (unlike LX model) that the next buyer will probably want.

Gotcha, thanks anyway. But I still do have the stock head unit, so if I sold the vehicle I would be more than happy to put it back in for anyone who prefers the stock headunit. That wouldn’t be a problem at all.

 

[gonzoleroy]

Well crap, it seems the t-harness is not compatible with Si models. I had looked it up on iDatalink’s site to verify and my car wasn’t listed...so I called tech support and all he said was “if it’s not listed, it’s not compatible”. I suspect it’s because of the manual transmission.

I’m tempted to order the harness and see for myself, but I'm torn between this and just getting a quote from a shop for everything

This is the route I took:
Remote Starter - Compustar Firstech FT-DC3-LC - $95 @ Amazon
Drone Module - DroneMobile - X1 LTE - $95 @ ebay
Harness - Compustar ADS-THR-HA3 - $30 @ BestBuy
Temperature Sensor - Compustar Firstech FT TEMP SENSOR THERMISTOR $10 on ebay
Programming Cable - iDatalink ADS-USB Weblink $30 on Amazon
DroneMobile 5-year Basic Plan: $180 (Ouch....YOLO)

That's a grand total of $440..

You can probably do it cheaper, but I wanted everything to be plug and play. IMO, I've already got my money's worth with this hot summer as I refuse to go into the car before its at a cool 75 degrees. Chicago winters will make it ever more worthwhile.

I'm assuming you already have the Maestro ADS-MRR? If so, the installation is very easy, no splicing, just a bit of cable management under the steering wheel.

You don't need a dealer to program the remote start module. You just need to register and click through all your setting (valet mode, max run time, etc) and you are good.

If you do decide to go forward, let me know, I'll mail you my USB cable and save you a $30, you can mail it back once its programmed.