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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
--My 2015 Honda Civic Lx 1.8L R18Z1 Turbo Prep Removal Guide--


1-Fuel Pump Removal
2-Fuel Injector Removal
3-Prep Removal for Turbo Install


Fuel Pump:::


Start with little to no fuel in the gas tank;


First: Pop the trunk and gas door. Unscrew the gas cap. Lower the rear seat by pulling on the handle at the top of the trunk to the left and right.
Remove (2) plastic clips from the center, just behind the seats. Remove the trunk cover. Remove (2) 10mm bolts holding the bracket above the
fuel pump housing. Move to the rear cabin. Remove (2) 12mm bolts, one on each end of the backrest. Flaps of carpet cover these bolts. Remove
the rear seat back rest. Remove (1) 10mm bolt near the center and to the left of the rear seat. Put your fingers below the front of the seat, at the
right and left center. Squeeze the clip and pull up on the seat. Remove the seat. Remove the quick release gas lines from the fuel pump housing. Remove
the fuel pump ring by using a hammer and large chisel. Be sure to keep the center fuel pump housing at its starting location, it will twist with
the ring as you remove the ring. Allowing the pump housing to turn with the ring may damage the fuel pump level bobbie and arm. Remove the fuel pump housing.


Remove all wires from their purches remembering what order they fit into them. Unfasten the three clips holding the fuel
pump. Remove the fuel pump. Reverse order to install the new fuel pump.


Note: When re-installing the fuel pump ring, be sure to apply a lot of pressure to the ring while installing. Leave the rubber ring gasket out until
you have full thread contact (not crossthreaded), install the rubber ring after achieving the beginning of the threads. While tightening the ring onto
the gasket, be sure to re position the fuel pump housing as it will move with the ring and gasket. It is critical that you keep the fuel pump housing
at its original position. Near the end of your turns to tighten the ring, you will have to reposition the fuel pump housing for the final 1/4-2/3's turn.
It will move with the ring, which is OK.


Fuel Injectors:::




First:I start with the fuel rail main line. There is a tan clip over the quick release at the rear of the fuel rail. It will take some work to remove
this tan clip. Remove the quick release. Remove the fuel injector clips. Remove (2) 10mm bolts holding the fuel rail. Pop the fuel injectors out of the
intake manifold slowly and carefully. Leave the fuel rail behind the head and remove the fuel injector clips and injectors after each one. Free the fuel rail
of any other clips and wires. Remove the fuel rail.


Note: When re-installing the new fuel injectors, apply super lube to the dry O-ring gaskets at the top and bottom of the injectors. Install the new injectors
onto the fuel rail and re-install the injector clips. Keep the fuel injector clips facing the front of the vehicle. Carefully pop the injectors attached to
the fuel rail into the intake manifold and reverse steps for install.


Removal for Turbo:::




First: I started with the dust covers underneath the engine and wheel wells. A lot of plastic clips to remove these covers.
To help with time and ease of removal, remove the front wheels before starting. (4) 10mm bolts will hold the front dust cover
as well as the clips. After removing the wheel well covers, remove the two screws holding the front bumper to the fender.


Note:This is also a good time to remove (1) 10mm bolt with rubber bushings from the inner area of the bumper, at the frame on the drivers side.
This is holding your intake silencer from below.


Second: I moved to the Cat. from under the vehicle. Starting with the (2) 12mm spring bolts. These spring bolts have a welded
nut behind them making removal a piece of cake. Then, just above those spring bolts you will find two metal brackets attatching the
Cat. downpipe to the block. Remove two of these brackets, one bracket larger than the other (4) 14mm bolts.


Third: I moved to under the hood. Remove the wire clip from the alternator back plate.Remove the (2) 12mm bolts holding the EGR pipe that attaches to the Cat.
downpipe. Remove the o2 sensor clip. Remove (2) 12mm bolts holding the EGR Valve. Remove the o2 sensor with a split socket. Then, remove
(4) 10mm bolts holding the heat shield to the Cat. Remove (4) 12mm bolts holding the Cat. to the head (integrated exhaust manifold). Remove (2) 10mm bolts from the bracket that holds (2) wire
clips above the clutch bleeder valve. Remove the wire clips.

Note: Keep these bolts and gasket for later installation of the turbo manifold.


Fourth:I moved to the battery. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts holding the wires. Then, the (2) 10mm bolts holding the battery strap.
Remove the plastic battery cover. Remove the battery. Remove the plastic lower battery tray. Begin removing the (2) 12mm bolts
on top of the metal battery tray. Remove (2) 12mm bolts below the metal battery tray, you will need an extension. Remove the metal
battery tray.


Fifth:I moved to the intake tube. Remove by twisting the upper silencer at the left front and pulling firmly upward. Next, remove the MAF
clip. With angled pliars squeeze the clamp and remove the recirculation hose from the snorkle and valve cover. Remove all wires from
intake snorkle rubber "holds". Loosen the clamp bolt at the intake manifold with a 6mm socket. Loosen the clamp bolt at the intake
air box. Now, remove the (2) 10mm bolts with rubber bushings from the front and right rear (near ecu) of the air box. Brace
the rear of the air box with both hands, find the rubber mount at the back with your fingers. Brace, and tug tword you to pop the air box off.
The air box and the snorkle may now be removed.


Sixth:I move to the front engine cowl. Remove the various clips holding the front plastic cover at the front of the engine bay. Remove
(2) T30 bolts from the cowl and remove. You may now pop the front bumper off after removing the two screws at the fender mount.


Seventh:I move to the front bumper brace. Remove the black foam insert. Remove the outside air temperature sensor from the backside of the brace.
Remove (8) 12mm bolts, four on each side of the brace. The brace is "hung" by two lips, it will not fall to the ground after removing the bolts.
Lift up the brace and tword the front of the vehicle to remove.


Eighth:I move to the two radiator fans. Remove the two power clips going to the radiator fans. Remove (2) 10mm bolts at the top of the fan shroud.
The fans may now be wiggled free.

Note:Wait to install your slim fans after you have fit your turbo to prevent re-positioning of the fans later.

Ninth:I move to the condensor for installation of the slim fans. Remove (2) 12mm bolts holding the condesor brackets at either end of the condensor.
You now have room to feed your slim fan mounting kit.

Tenth:I move to the exhaust. (2) 12mm and (3) 14mm bolts, long sockets will finish this process. (2) 12mm bolts hold the center section bar.

Note:Use a toothbrush and automatic transmission fluid to lubricate the exhaust hanger ends and push the mount in and out, for easy removal.


Eleventh: I move to the oil pan. First, start by removing (3) 10mm bolts from the clutch/flywheel dust cover. Remove the (2) 17mm bolts holding the oil pan to the transmission housing near the dust cover. Remove (4) 17mm bolts from the rear engine mount. You do not have to completely remove the mount from the cradle to finish the removal process. Next, remove (4) 12mm bolts holding the a/c compressor to the bracket on the oil pan. Allow compressor to hang while you finish the rest of the process. Remove (4) 12mm bolts holding the a/c compressor bracket. You may now begin removing all your 10mm bolts holding the lower section of the oil pan. You do not need to remove the center section of the oil pan to tap for oil return. Use a pry bar in 4 different locations to free the oil pan. Only prying lightly and cycling through each location will give the best results.

Note: Start with the (2) 10mm bolts behind the rear engine mount. You will have to push the mount back and away from the pan to gain room to remove the bolts. Also, when removing the oil pan you will push the engine mount back to allow the pan to fall free. Use a razor blade to work off as much Honda bond before beginning to pry on the oil pan.

Tapping the Oil Pan: With the 3/8 fitting that was supplied with your kit you will need to use a 3/8-18NPT tap driver. $8.19. You will not find this size in any 117pc 78pc or even larger snap-on or matco tapping kits. Locate where you want your oil return fitting to be placed. Use a sharpie to trace your fitting and put a dot in the center to begin your first drill hole. Gradually increase the size of the drill bit until you reach the 1/2inch bit. Use a Step drill bit to finish the rest of the diameter.

Note: Use wd-40 or PB blaster to lubricate while tapping. While taping forward, back the tap driver 1/4 turn for every 1 full forward turn for proper tapping. Apply a thin layer of Teflon to threads. Apply Honda bond to the rear half of the threading for an extra seal. Do Not over tighten the fitting to the pan after tapping. The fitting may seem loose but this is OK. This is why you will need to check the fitting for leaks on a regular basis. Weld the fitting inside the pan for superior leak protection.



Clocking your turbo:::

First, take a look at the turbo. Notice the center piece with the oil return fitting. Facing the oil return line down to the ground and lining up our charge pipe is the goal here.
Start by loosening the nuts on the exhaust side, only loosen a little to allow the center of the turbo to spin freely. Then, do the same on the inlet side. Some turbos use a v-band and this is what you loosen. Now you can turn the turbo to fit your application. Tighten the bolts/v-band on the inlet housing after you have fitted your charge piping for ease of fitment.



Removal of most parts needed to install a full turbo kit and cat back exhaust. During removal, you can install your parts as you go or
wait to install later. You may encounter issues during the install as some things may need modification to fit your application. I prefer to
complete my breakdown before assuming my installation. I hope this helps anyone in preparing for their R18 2013-2015 civic 4Door turbo build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
--My Turbo Installation Guide for 2015 Civic R18: Full Race 6258 .64 A/R--


Turbo Install:::


First- Start by assembling your turbo manifold to the turbo, (4) 13mm nuts with ribbed washers. The 4th nut that fits nearest the
turbo casing will need to have the washer removed, the space is too small to include the washer.


Second- I clock the turbo. The Borg Warner EFR turbos requires you to re-position the waste gate actuator in order to turn the bearing housing for positioning the housing. Now, take a look at the turbo. Notice the center piece (bearing housing) with the oil return hole that has two thread holes on either end. Facing the oil return hole down (with at most 20 degree agle) to the ground and lining up our charge pipe is the goal here. Start by loosening the nuts on the exhaust side, only loosen a little to allow the center of the turbo to spin freely with the turbine housing. Now you can turn the turbo to fit your application. Tighten the v-band on the inlet housing after you have fitted your charge piping for ease of fitment. Re-install your waste gate actuator. Positioning is set every 15 degrees. You may use only two of the mounting scews if you need to cheat another 15 degrees for the actuator. 10ft/lb should be applied to the exhaust housing plate bolts.

Third- I install the turbo. Work the turbo into position and lightly tighten the (4) 12mm bolts to the exhaust manifold. Then set your
oil return line facing down. Tighten the bolts on the exhaust side of the turbo once you have lined this up.


Fourth- Install your slim fans. Remov the (2) 12mm bolts holding the condensor brackets at the top right and left. This will give you
room to attach your backing to your slim fan mounting ties. Your turbo is still loose in case you need to remove it to fit your slim fans.
Notice the location of the turbo to the radiator, you will need to position the fans far enough apart for the turbine housing. Attach the
adhesive square protectors. These will be attached to the backs of the circular back plates and the 4 mounts at the back of the radiator
fan shroud. Slide the springs over the mounting ties so that the larger end of the spring is butted up to the backing of the tie. Insert each
tie end through the mounting hole from the fan side and poke through and between the radiator fins. Slip the tie through the circular
backing plate and tighten until your spring has a slight tension. Repeat for each mount.


Note: Do not over tighten the ties or they may snap.


Re-install or tighten your turbo manifold to the exhaust manifold.


Fifth- I install my turbo charge piping. Figure out which charge pipe will be fitting the intake manifold. It should have a long center and
and two bends near the ends. Position the pipe so that the pipe is angled down and near where the rear left corner of the battery tray
would be. If the pipe protrudes up and out and hits the top of the engine bay you have the wrong pipe. Tighten the T-bolt clamp fully at the
throttle body.
Find the second charge pipe. This pipe has a much longer, straight end and a shorter curve with another angle. Attach this to the first pipe
and have the other end down near the wheel well. This pipe should sit high enough for the next pipe to fit underneath.
Find the third charge pipe. This pipe has one bend in it and has a long straight end. Use the 2"-2.5" coupler for this pipe, attaching the
shorter end of the pipe to the turbo housing. This pipe will take some positioning. You do not want the coupler to be pinched or bent in on
any sides.


Hint: I positioned this angled coupler more tword the block, then attached the pipe.


Find the last two charge pipes. They should be the obvious dual bend U shape. Mount these so that the shorter bend-side is attached at the
charge piping. The longer ends will allow you to reach to the front of the vehicle for the inter cooler.
This is the time to adjust all your piping and tighten your T-bolt clamps.


Note:Dont forget to tighten your turbo inlet housing.


Sixth- I move to the inter cooler brace. Drill a hole through the center of each inter cooler bracket, have a marker ready. The brace will seem
to not line up. Have (2) 12mm bolts handy then position the intercooler behind the bumper brace. Use tape to keep the inter cooler from rocking back
and hitting your condensor. Lift both to the bumper beam mounts and insert
the 14mm bolts using the Top hole on the brace Only and to the Bottom bumper beam mount bolt hole Only. Two bolts hold this beam.
Now, release the tape and support the inter cooler. Slide the inter cooler left and right, find the best position for the intercooler so it is not
touching anything and lines up properly with your charge pipes. With the marker, mark your intercooler mount holes on the inter cooler brace. Remove the
inter cooler and brace. Drill your mount holes in the inter cooler brace. Mount your intercooler with bolts, washers and lock washers for the nut side.
Re-install the inter cooler brace. Install the two couplers from the intercooler to the charge piping.


Note:You will need to find a new location for two items here-


The SRS sensor: The SRS sensor is mounted by (2) T30 screws and is located on the driver side bumper beam. Remove the two screws. Remove the wire clip from
just above it at the rear. Move the SRS sensor so that the small plastic nub on the back goes into the hole where you removed the wire clip and utilizing
only one of the T30 screws to mount.


The outside air temperature sensor: This can be moved to a new location and clipped to various holes nearby.


Re-install the front bumper.
 

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Thanks for sharing Brandon82! I'm sure there are a lot of us out there who plan to turbo our R18s and this kind of info is super helpful.
 

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I am looking to get my r18z1 turbod also, I was just wondering how much this all cost. maintianing my stock internals and clutch. I spoke to a shop today and was told he could turbo the car in about a week but he would rather fabricate everything in store... He told me that I could safely get to maybe 180whp and maybe 210tq running 6-10psi which is great as I daily the car too. If everyhting goes as planned i hope to get a more sporty feel out of my r18. honestly just looking for a ball park price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Giduo and anyone with the same questions. I spent somewhere around $7,200 to make this car legit. I am running 250+ hp and about 230+ trq @8.9 psi. Tuned by Vit and I can daily this thing without a problem. There is no real fabrication needed if you buy the Full Race kit, just minor things that any home mechanic can do. This is not including suspension and components, wheels/tires, mounts clutch and accessories like gauges.

You will need to upgrade your clutch with the same set-up I have. Too much power, you will slip around 5,200 when your intake manifold activates its internal shudder valve. At least a stage one Exedy, this clutch will also give you a closer to stock feel. You will retain your Mass Air Flow meter and will need to have a MAF adapter welded to the charge piping nearest the throttle body but never right after a curve in the pipe, not too close to the throttle body to prevent heat soaking of the sensor. Stock fuel pressure regulators and return lines do fine. Both stock 02 sensors will need to be plugged in to not have a check engine light (buy or fabricate o2 sensor extensions(note:pay attention to the adapter clips so you do not buy previous year hondas o2 connectors, they are bigger)). Upgrade your suspension to a twin-tube design strut/shock or coil overs. Stock MAP sensor will fuel cut at 10PSI manifold pressure. RDX MAP sensor will handle 23psi.

It is worth the price in my opinion for the Full Race BW6258 kit. The Full Race kit comes with all high quality hoses, couplers, charge pipes, v-bands and their vertical flow intercooler keeps IATs to a minimum even with the lack of venting from the front bumper because we have a lot less air flow up there than previous generations (two door have plenty though). The Borg Warner EFR turbo is one of the most reliable and long lasting turbos you can buy in the market with:Dual row ball bearings and steel cages, Billet compressor wheel, water and oil cooled center section, internal blow off valve and internal waste gate. Turbo warranty is the best. Also, working with Full Race exhaust products has shown to be high quality materials, welds and will last a long time.

Reliability comes at a price. The cheaper you go on any upgrade for performance will show when it comes time to "pull numbers"/be tuned, reliability suffers from weak/cheap components. For 240hp, which i have seen some get from their TSI kits on the R18, for 4,000$ is not that bad for a full turbo kit. Although add in the other items like fuel pump, good injectors and a free flowing exhaust well..you are already getting to that $8000 anyways. My car has 20k miles at the moment because I have a beater for DDing and I highly suggest you have a second car while boosting the other. That can run you another 1500$. Its expensive in this game but it is worth the investment for the personal satisfaction. Reliability and best performance, that is why I chose to go the high cost route.
 

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Brandon82! You are the man!! Such a thorough write up of your turbo install! I couldn't agree more when you said "Reliability comes at a price". Which is why I also purchased (and recently received) a Full Race BW6258 Kit along with the 3in Full Exhaust System for my 2014 Civic LX 😁😁 So I really appreciate your explanation since I'm planning on performing the install this month.

Do you have any pictures of the charge piping by any chance? Or the position you selected for Oil Drain? Lastly, just wondering if you ever ran water lines for the turbo as well??

Thank you!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ran coolant lines, yes. I tapped the coolant lines that went through the metal diverter that feeds the throttle body coolant. Basically deleting the coolant flow to the throttle body and letting it feed the turbo instead. This won’t hurt anything, it may increase the time it takes for the car to warm up in the cold. Address the cold idle during the tune. Just figure out which line is feed and which is return and you are golden. The oil pan - position it as high on the oil pan directly below the turbo oil drain so the oil in the pan won’t block the hole or back pressure will happen in your bearings and leak, then burning oil from turbo. I ensured the amount of oil the car takes wouldn’t be higher than the hole by filling the pan with 4.8qts of oil and made my mark before drilling.
I do not have any pictures of the charge piping. I explained the orientation in the turbo install guide i wrote up.
 

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Hey Brandon!

Thanks for your reply! I’m just finishing up the install now. I ended up having the oil drain bung welded on by a friend at a high position similar to the full-race faq pictures. I did have throuble with one of the wrap -around piping near the intercooler, but solved it with a 45 degree coupling 🤷‍♂️ Otherwise all the other charge piping parts bolted right up. Thanks for the tips on the coolants lines! Should be finishing those this weekend. Then buttoning things up tight and off to my tuning session! Definitely focused on getting the idle right and not running too rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If using the full race 3” catless downpipe, I had clearance issues at the transmission housing. I had to Not use one bolt at the bottom of bell housing and shaved the aluminum off where the bolt hole was, to clear the transmission. I also had to have a custom fabricated 3” long pipe with two v-band flanges welded to both sides to position the downpipe further back under the engine to clear the steering rack. Full race 3” Si catback had to be trimmed to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You have to trim the driver fender well to fit the charge pipes. The brace that holds the intercooler needs some finagling. Basically utilizing only one bolt on each side and positioning it…the only one way it will line up.
 

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Hey Brandon!!

Thanks again for the tips! I managed to get the coolant lines tee off from the throttle body existing lines. Yes, I’ve modified the full race exhaust to fit and so far things are measuring up nicely when I added another exhaust hanger. I was actually able to give it a crank today and all the fittings held up, no leaks, and oil pressurized the feed line perfectly. Just wasn’t able to hold an idle with the stock tune only (kept starting then shutting off). I already have the hondata flashpro might just get it towed to my local tuner on Monday to get it running right.
Did you delete the PCV valve by any chance? I already began doing that to fit an oil catch can 👌
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So the PCV is something I had questions about as well. There is a check ball inside the back left corner that is below the nipple that attaches to the vacuum hose. I personally removed the check valve and it does nothing. No crank gases come out of it. I vent to atmosphere right now and deleted the PCV. I will upgrade later. I have not had any issues with blowby or anything yet in 30k miles on the turbo setup with venting to atmosphere. Get your suction from an angled nipple welded to the inlet pipe pre-turbo. The angle of it will be critical to not get too much suction. Again, I do not see any pressure from the back left with the check ball removed (it was a pain to remove).
 
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