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Hey guys so im sure many of you have been in the same situation now that our cars factory inspections are expired. So I currently am CT Supercharged with Catless exhaust, tuned by Vit, and have 2 of my monitors incomplete, O2 Sensor monitoring and catalyst. So i know this is to be expected lol i have tried reenabling the secondary o2 sensor with a defouler and am getting p1039 DTC, which is o2 sensor slow response. Now from what ive gathered online, most people catless have been going back to stock tune to pass, but we cannot do that being forced induction. So I am curious to know what have you other FI guys been doing for your inspections. I am 6 months over due for inspection and could use some help lmao any help is greatly appreciated
 

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Without tuning know-how? Taking it completely back to stock. Seriously.

Even with the ability to play around with the ECU, sometimes they just don't want to play ball. You could end up taking way more time messing around with that when you could have just spent the couple hours returning it to stock and then driving it until the monitors set.

Sorry there isn't a better answer, but this is how the game works when living in an emissions required area.
 

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I don't see you being able to get the readiness monitors set without at least a putting a catted downpipe on the car. Even then it can be hard as the high low cat can still trip a CEL

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I think I can help, OP.

I've heard that the easiest way to get inspection passed, is to zip-tie the bypass valve in the position that disallows the supercharger to build boost. I don't remember if this signifies the valve being "open" or "closed". There is a way to do it, though. It essentially takes the supercharger out of the equation, and the engine acts as stock.

You would need to reinstall the stock injectors as well, then flash back to stock map. If you have an aftermarket fuel pump, that might have to be adjusted some how. You can drive safely with the downpipe, exhaust, and intake on stock map. Just don't drive crazy.

As mentioned by Bwill, drive for 40-50 miles to allow readiness codes to reset, then get it inspected. Then return everything back to FI and reflash your tune.

I initially contacted Vit about this 2 years ago. He was no help, of course. Others have said the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think I can help, OP.

I've heard that the easiest way to get inspection passed, is to zip-tie the bypass valve in the position that disallows the supercharger to build boost. I don't remember if this signifies the valve being "open" or "closed". There is a way to do it, though. It essentially takes the supercharger out of the equation, and the engine acts as stock.

You would need to reinstall the stock injectors as well, then flash back to stock map. If you have an aftermarket fuel pump, that might have to be adjusted some how. You can drive safely with the downpipe, exhaust, and intake on stock map. Just don't drive crazy.

As mentioned by Bwill, drive for 40-50 miles to allow readiness codes to reset, then get it inspected. Then return everything back to FI and reflash your tune.

I initially contacted Vit about this 2 years ago. He was no help, of course. Others have said the same.
Thats a pretty good idea if its legit, sounds a bit sketch lol i dont have the stock injectors but i could easily get them and the install is simple. I might just try this , thank you.

I dont have the link but i found a thread somewhere suggesting that CEL from defouler has to do with having rev hang disabled in our custom tunes. Can anybody confirm this? I did notice rev hang being a checkbox in the calibration settings on my tune and am going to try this. Right now i am pulling a p1039 DTC with the o2 enabled which i found one thread saying this common when using a defouler on tuned cars. As for Vit, yeah sounds like Vit lol i just cant believe theres no way to force readiness on the ecu with flashpro, im almost certain other car's tuning solutions allow them to force it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't see you being able to get the readiness monitors set without at least a putting a catted downpipe on the car. Even then it can be hard as the high low cat can still trip a CEL

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yeah i have been considering getting a catted downpipe and trying it out but am afriad of wasting the money if it still throws a code you know
 

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I don't see you being able to get the readiness monitors set without at least a putting a catted downpipe on the car. Even then it can be hard as the high low cat can still trip a CEL

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
yeah i have been considering getting a catted downpipe and trying it out but am afriad of wasting the money if it still throws a code you know
My catted RV6 came with a defouler, and it never threw a code. Completely stock tune too.
 

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yeah i have been considering getting a catted downpipe and trying it out but am afriad of wasting the money if it still throws a code you know
I have the catted version of the RV6. The cat has nothing to do with readiness codes(for this application). It also has a defouler installed, sold by RV6. I still failed due to 2 readiness codes not resetting.
 

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My first post refers to tuning because getting your secondary o2 sensor to work with an aftermarket map that's not compensating for it is just not going to happen. Your AFRs will be everywhere.

You basically have to either go back to stock or figure out how to compensate for that inaccurate o2.

I think I can help, OP.

I've heard that the easiest way to get inspection passed, is to zip-tie the bypass valve in the position that disallows the supercharger to build boost. I don't remember if this signifies the valve being "open" or "closed". There is a way to do it, though. It essentially takes the supercharger out of the equation, and the engine acts as stock.

You would need to reinstall the stock injectors as well, then flash back to stock map. If you have an aftermarket fuel pump, that might have to be adjusted some how. You can drive safely with the downpipe, exhaust, and intake on stock map. Just don't drive crazy.

As mentioned by Bwill, drive for 40-50 miles to allow readiness codes to reset, then get it inspected. Then return everything back to FI and reflash your tune.

I initially contacted Vit about this 2 years ago. He was no help, of course. Others have said the same.
Anyone attempting this should be VERY careful and be ready to have flashpro open to check all your vitals. Having the supercharger still on there throws off airflow the engine is expecting to see. Especially if you have an aftercooler. You do not need to mess with the fuel pump though. Works 100% fine in a stock car given how the fuel system works.

As for Vit, yeah sounds like Vit lol i just cant believe theres no way to force readiness on the ecu with flashpro, im almost certain other car's tuning solutions allow them to force it.
Some do, it depends on the ECU and how much the company designing the interface can interpret.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My first post refers to tuning because getting your secondary o2 sensor to work with an aftermarket map that's not compensating for it is just not going to happen. Your AFRs will be everywhere.

You basically have to either go back to stock or figure out how to compensate for that inaccurate o2.



Anyone attempting this should be VERY careful and be ready to have flashpro open to check all your vitals. Having the supercharger still on there throws off airflow the engine is expecting to see. Especially if you have an aftercooler. You do not need to mess with the fuel pump though. Works 100% fine in a stock car given how the fuel system works.



Some do, it depends on the ECU and how much the company designing the interface can interpret.
Damn so i am pretty much screwed unless i can find a shop that doesnt care or doesnt realize the 2 checks are incomplete. And by what youre saying, even getting a catted downpipe installed will not help me at all due to aftermarket MAP and the tuning correct? Its getting to the point where i wish i could just swap the downpipe and pass. I really dont want to go back to NA just to pass
 

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Damn so i am pretty much screwed unless i can find a shop that doesnt care or doesnt realize the 2 checks are incomplete. And by what youre saying, even getting a catted downpipe installed will not help me at all due to aftermarket MAP and the tuning correct? Its getting to the point where i wish i could just swap the downpipe and pass. I really dont want to go back to NA just to pass
If you can get the 02 sensors to work with a catted downpipe then you should be ok.
 

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Damn so i am pretty much screwed unless i can find a shop that doesnt care or doesnt realize the 2 checks are incomplete. And by what youre saying, even getting a catted downpipe installed will not help me at all due to aftermarket MAP and the tuning correct? Its getting to the point where i wish i could just swap the downpipe and pass. I really dont want to go back to NA just to pass
Hey, if you can find a shop that plays loose like that more power to you.

But yes, having a cat really only helps you if you have to pass a sniffer test (and obviously it helps with not throwing secondary o2 codes).

Good luck to you and let this be a cautionary tale for anyone else living in an emissions area. Consider these issues in advance, rather than waiting until the last minute!
 

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Anyone attempting this should be VERY careful and be ready to have flashpro open to check all your vitals. Having the supercharger still on there throws off airflow the engine is expecting to see. Especially if you have an aftercooler. You do not need to mess with the fuel pump though. Works 100% fine in a stock car given how the fuel system works.
I may be wrong, but I assumed that the supercharger essentially becomes an intake manifold if it's always in bypass mode. The engine should be able to adjust to any difference in air cubic volume change, due to the difference in it versus the stock intake manifold. I've heard multiple people doing this safely, in order to get inspected.

Now, I do agree that first startup, I would be watching with flashpro and a laptop. lol.... I'm paranoid about my Si! Love the thing way too damn much.
 

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I have personal experience with this. . . I gave up on defouler and all that as I got the same "slow response" code back... I also had a lightweight flywheel, so I *had* to disable misfire detection. Both items cause a failure. I ended up buying a new catted downpipe from Fullrace and going to a FX400 clutch / full weight flywheel... The downpipe is easy enough to swap out for offroad use.

I know this isn't the least expensive solution, but it worked for me and with all the money I already had invested in my build, I was just being stubborn trying to figure out ways around this. WAY better than going back to bone-stock! I don't see how you'd get by without a cat (and regular flywheel if you'd swapped to a lightweight).
 

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I have personal experience with this. . . I gave up on defouler and all that as I got the same "slow response" code back... I also had a lightweight flywheel, so I *had* to disable misfire detection. Both items cause a failure. I ended up buying a new catted downpipe from Fullrace and going to a FX400 clutch / full weight flywheel... The downpipe is easy enough to swap out for offroad use.

I know this isn't the least expensive solution, but it worked for me and with all the money I already had invested in my build, I was just being stubborn trying to figure out ways around this. WAY better than going back to bone-stock! I don't see how you'd get by without a cat (and regular flywheel if you'd swapped to a lightweight).
What are your emissions requirements? What flashpro settings did you run?

Most of us cannot run maps that would allow for even an aftermarket downpipe to be run safely due to throwing off fueling.
 
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