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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
4 channel amp and mono amp install help

VEHICLE: 2012 Honda Civic EX-L sedan w/Navi (keeping the factory unit)

Installing:
JL Audio JX500/1D mono amp with JL audio 4 awg wiring kit----------two 10 inch JL W0v3 subs in box
Kicker DX400.3 four channel amp with Kicker 4 awg wiring kit---------four 6.5 Kicker DS60 coaxial speakers

Questions about this install:

1. How many in-line converters do I need for the factory navi unit (only has high level inputs and no sub outputs) and how would I go about doing this part?
2. If I am using 4 awg power/ground wire for both amps, do I need a distributor box with 0 awg wire to the battery/ground or can I use 4 awg for everything?

3. Is 14awg copper speaker wires good for this installation? or do I need a 12 or 16?
4. Where is the best location to install both amps---both in truck or 1 in front and 1 in trunk?


Suggestions and tips would be much appreciative!
 

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I'm confused.
You bought speaker pigtails but you want to rewire using a 4 ch amp because you dont want to cut off factory wires.......?..........??..?...???......?

Um yeah just drop it off at a shop and have em do it.
Your going to end up breaking/blowing something.

Your installing coaxial speakers in place of midbass drivers instead of sticking to a component set up front like the factory installed.

I'm seeing more wrongs than rights.
Just let an expert handle it.
Hopefully you didn't buy the coaxials.if you did return or sell em.


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How would you suggest I go about this installation? I thought aftermarket speakers were better than factory that is why I wanted to replace them to get the most out of the 4 channel amp. Help me out here, your input is very constructive! thanks
 

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There is no need to post what are essentially duplicate threads, we can take care of your questions in this one.

Your speakers are made by Pioneer BTW (can be found on most Honda parts sites).

You'll have to excuse EffBee's demeanor, but he makes some good points.

You will have to cut into your wiring harness from the factory amp, no other option there. You'll need 3 speaker output converters like these for converting over to RCA cables for your amps. I know you said you don't have a "sub" output, but you do for the speaker in the middle of your rear deck. Don't cheap out on the RCA's and you'll need at least 12ft to reach the back of the rear seat (that works if they start from around the glovebox and go down the passenger side).

It will certainly be easier to wire both amps if they are in the same spot. The back of the rear seats would be ideal from an ease of access standpoint over say beneath the front seats.

14awg will be good (you would be fine at 16awg) for future upgradeability. I would buy more like 75 or 100 feet though (just in case, it's cheap). Which brings us to the speakers...

EffBee mentioned to not worry about coaxial's because you'll want components (midbass, tweeter, crossover) for the front (you can go coaxial in the rear though if you'd like). What you choose will be up to you, but obviously you get what you pay for (typically).

I would personally have the 4awg going into a 0awg for the amp wiring BTW. Good luck if you decide to tackle this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
thanks for the tips...let me clarify for the pioneer speakers, I need to know the model number of the speakers, I want to know the specs and I checked the honda sites and they don't have those details. Also about the LOCs, how do I install 3 of them together? Do I wire all the positives together and all the negatives together for all three?
 

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He doesn't have a rear woofer ,so no output there.this has allll been covered numerous times.
Absolutely. And every time you choose to be rude instead of at least just linking a helpful thread.

You are right of course about the woofer, as for some reason I read it was a 2013.

Therefore, you'll need a LOC for tapping into both of the rear speakers new wiring for the sub.

Wiring is like you said OP. You can find plenty of DIY threads with pics if you need further guidance on that.
 

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Absolutely. And every time you choose to be rude instead of at least just linking a helpful thread.

You are right of course about the woofer, as for some reason I read it was a 2013.

Therefore, you'll need a LOC for tapping into both of the rear speakers new wiring for the sub.

Wiring is like you said OP. You can find plenty of DIY threads with pics if you need further guidance on that.
Yes clearly I chose to be rude when clearly I'm the one who's answered the same questions countless times because people rather create a new thread than searching huh.
Yup I'm rude.smh


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Why do you need the model number, as they are OEM speakers, not ones that you can go to pioneers site and get specs for, just change them out for real speakers.

Why 3 LOC's you need to look at an integration product like an Audio control LC6i, for just LOC/summing or the LCQ-1 or DQ-61 if you what a lot more eq functionality. you could also look at a DSP product like the Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3, PPI DSP-88r or DEQ-8.
 
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Yeah, I'm not quite sure why OP is so dead set on more specs regarding the OEM's.

Plus, the model numbers are definitely on the page for the OEM stuff. I'm not sure what sites you are looking at, but try this link.
 

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Yeah, I'm not quite sure why OP is so dead set on more specs regarding the OEM's.

Plus, the model numbers are definitely on the page for the OEM stuff. I'm not sure what sites you are looking at, but try this link.
He's referring to model numbers to look up specs.
Not oem specific part numbers.

Regardless you can't do squat with 12 rms stock coaxial other than leave it stock or a kayak anchor,or attach to a wood pole and use as a magnet to find nails off the floor,or put em on your lawnmower with a 25 w amp for when you wanna get low when you mow.or just leave stock.

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