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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been out of the loop since my days of owning my edm crx back in Germany (over a decade ago) so forgive my newbie ways lol.
Just picked up a 14 FG4 for the wife and of course I liked the damn thing so now ill be adding to it without her knowledge 馃槄. Ive searched the forums and read many contradicting things regarding geographical location and mods so I wanted to give my specifics and hope that someone could help.
While I have the money to slap on a whirly boy or SC I want to make this a little fun RELIABLE grocery getter so looking to make as much power as possible here in Connecticut. It rains a ton here, it snows, just overall not vehicle friendly so not sure on what route to go for intake. I came from AZ so CAI was a no brainer but being new to CT I have no clue what I'm in for.
I thought about going hondata right off the bat due to so many of the issues I read about tossing on an intake along with exhaust, etc throwing codes and not getting any real gains so am I right in going with that first?
I'm focusing on power being done right (I know there are limitations with aluminum blocks) but just wondering from all of you who have the knowledge is tearing these down to sleeve etc. Is worth it? Or are we talking repower at that price point?

2015 Honda Civic SI
7 Posts
First off, I would definitely suggest getting Hondata Flashpro. It is definitely worth it and completely changes the car and the way it drives. I bought my Flashpro about 6 months ago with no knowledge about tuning whatsoever, and now after so much

I would also suggest starting off with exhaust and an intake. For exhaust, I would suggest the Skunk2 Megapower RR. In my opinion, its the best sounding exhaust and also on the louder side, makes the civic sound mean as hell. You should be okay with putting on an exhaust and an intake without any codes being thrown, if done correctly. I had a catless downpipe, exhaust, and intake on mine before I tuned it, and my CEL did not come on for a month or 2. Once it did come on, it was saying the car was running to rich, -25% on long term fuel which isn't that bad.... -20% or more sets off the CEL.

My intake was a DC sports Short Ram, it sounded nice, but i was getting IAT of like 150F when it was 40F outside. I then ended up buying a filter from Spectre Performance, and removed my drivers side fog light. I then attached a tube from Spectre and ran that tube up to the filter, where it stuck right in. I now get IAT that are no more than 20 degrees different from the outside temp. It wasn't tough to do at all, just required removing the front bumper and taking out some plastic. It'll only run you about 100 for the filter and a pipe thatt fits with a MAF cutout, then also for the plastic tubing that runs to your fog light. Also will give your civic a mean look if you tint the other fog light yellow lol.

Good luck w the build!!!

151 Posts
For bolt ons, there's no weak point, although you may run out of injector. For boost, up to ~350hp, you don't need anything outside clutch.
Around 350hp you probably need new gears, 4th gear likes to strip. Generally it's said 12PSI is safe limit for stock rods/pistons, although people have pushed this much farther...with our high compression it's risky IMO.
I've not seen any sleeved K24Z7's, I'm sure they exist though. I'd rather close the deck when I decide to rods/piston/head-stud my block, but this won't be till I'm ready to push past 12PSI.
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